Gary Lewis

Welcome! Glad you joined. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we could add you if we had a city or zip. As for the truck, you are right that it needs some work. But it was your father's truck, so you are going to do it - right? On the VIN, a 1980 truck got the short, 11 digit, VIN. The 5th digit is the plant in which it was made, and "N" is for Norfolk.

Gary, here is an old trick taught to me years ago by a man who tried to teach a younger man to appreciate classic automobiles. Take painters masking tape [easily removed] and go one area at a time so as to be able to determine where the noise originates: tape around the hood where it is next to the fenders, grill and windshield cowl. Tape around the headlight doors. Tape all around the passenger door and if desired, ask Janey to "tape you in" by sealing the driver's door. Tape around the windshield trim [next to the windshield and next to the body]. Take both mirrors and collapse next to the door and drive carefully. The older gentle man had a Corvette which was equipped with only the driver's side rearview mirror. He added the optional passenger side rearview mirror and noticed an increase in wind noise. That's a lot of work to figure out that it is something that can't easily be fixed. But, you did mention something I'd forgotten - windshield trim. I don't have all of it on. I wonder.... Also, when I went out briefly yesterday I noted that the sound was more from the front, like the windshield wipers. And they are odd looking. Hmmmm....

Like this? Or, do you have another?

Wanted to say thanks for thinking of me! After some discussion, payment and shipping I received the full set of mirrors, wires and templates yesterday!!! I couldn't be happier. Now........who can help me find a CB radio? You are most likely thinking along the lines of a Ford CB radio system... the following is not that but is a period correct NOS aftermarket unit which looks like it will fit 1980-1984 trucks. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1970s-1980s-In-Dash-23-Channel-CB-with-AM-FM-MPX-Stereo-Radio-dp/264917588214?epid=1373319023&hash=item3dae5198f6:g:QIIAAOSwmGNfm2B4 I didn't know that an AM/FM/CB unit was ever made. Cool!

I would think you could interpolate. So if you can't get 25' but can get 20' just use 20/25 = .8 times the specified drop below horizontal.

You are right, that's a really good video! But you are also right, they made The Wall look easy. I seriously doubt Big Blue would do it that easily. However, we might try! As for Google Maps, I didn't know you could paste lat/lon in. That's cool! I'm going to have to explore things along there. Thanks!

Technically black bezels with clock cutouts existed. But I doubt many people added a clock to a base model truck. And I don't think I've ever seen one either. As for the outer slots, I don't know the answer to that question. I'll have to check the 1980 EVTM tomorrow to see if/ the 4wd indicator was used then.

Congrat's, Bob! Lots of hard work. On the brakes, I can understand what you mean about having driven the Bronco with the hydroboost. Big Blue's brake pedal is HARD, and he stops NOW. In fact, I've set him down quickly several times just to enjoy such good brakes - and I've had no squealing tires. Nothing locking up. But the vacuum-boosted systems don't usually feel that hard. So, if driving it around doesn't firm it up then I'd check that driver's side again. It is odd that it never had any air. On the boot clamp, I was told most people are going with large zip ties. I couldn't find the size of metal clamp I wanted for the front driveshaft on Big Blue so am using a very large zip tie and it seems to be working fine.

Congrat's, Brian!!!!!!

That's the guy you want to listen to, not me. He ran a carb and ignition shop for decades, and has forgotten more about carbs than I'll ever know.

Here's the link to Daniel Sterns' directions on adjusting E-code headlights. And the lights look good! I'm anxious to see how you like them.

Good question! Also, I've wondered what determined whether the truck got it or not. Does your truck have any wiring there besides the seat belt? No wiring behind my seat. My truck did not have carpet and now it does. I believe that bracket was on all trucks with full carpet as the carpet is molded to go over that bracket, it fits poorly without it. Gary, sorry to hear you were on the rear tank. Still an improvement as you say. Just talked to my brother and we are in agreement - EFI would be nice to have, but isn't critical. So, my plan is to drive it a bit more with the different rods to get a better handle on what it wants/likes in the way of AFR, then at some point swap the Street Demon on and see how it does. But I have no experience rejetting that carb, nor even any extra jets, so if it isn't "right" I'll probably put the Eddy back on. Then I'll turn to the things that I really want to have done before the trip, inc: Power steering system leak-proofed Interior panels painted, insulated/sound-deadened, and installed Highliner installed Behind-the-seat storage unit installed Inverter installed Compressor installed Switches installed in radio bezel for OX locker, compressor, inverter, etc Speedo re-geared and the cable problem sorted so the speed control works - it is a long way to CO LRC regulator installed in the 3G to stop the belt squeal on startup Air conditioning system working I don't know if I'll get to install a GMRS radio. Nor what other problems may come up along the way. But if I get all of those things done then I'll consider the EFI.

You made the right decision as that doesn't match your desires/plans. Well done. Not everyone will walk away in those circumstances.

Man, that was a mouthful! A lot of work in that writeup. Well done! But it makes you wonder what the engineers were smoking when they came up with some of those systems. Gears that loosen? Non-removable retainers?

Yes, Jim is right. But if you are worried about the spring, pull the cap and look. And as Jim says, make sure the loop captures the arm. Then with the cap against the carb turn the cap towards the arm to make sure the choke closes. That way you know things are working properly.

Looking good, Cory! Yes, lots of work to do, but just take it one step at a time and it'll get done. (I'm preaching to me, too. )

You may be right about the intake crack making #1 lean. However, given the length of the intake manifold it isn't unusual for there to be differences between the cylinders. So, what to do? What I'd do is to fire it up and spray carb cleaner at that crack and see what happens. If it truly is leaking the engine will speed up when you hit it with cleaner, and then you'll know. As for pulling the head, that's a large task. And I doubt you have a way to truly check it out as that would take checking for cracks in the head and leaks in the valves. But, you can check it on the engine by doing a leak-down test. That will determine if you have valve leaks, and if you haven't been losing coolant you probably don't have cracks in the head. I'd do the leak-down test and if the engine passes I'd then put the Offy intake on and also change out to DS-II.

Bummer! Sorry it didn't work out. But you've probably made a wise choice. Hope you find another one soon.

Congrat's, George & Nick! Well done.

Thanks for the report back. And glad it worked out.

Ok, I was WRONG! I was running on the 19 gallon rear tank rather than the 16 gallon front tank. So that explains why it was still sitting on 1/4 tank. And, having filled it up today I find that we got 10.6 MPG yesterday. That's not too bad with a 460 when I was NOT driving for economy. In fact, there were several bursts at WOT, and lots of driving at 70+ MPH, not to mention the serious winds we were bucking.

First, I forgot to mention yesterday the results of the mirror brace - excellent! The passenger's side mirror is rock steady. I mean ROCK steady. As if you are sitting still. And the driver's mirror is very steady, but has a slight quiver to it - possibly due to the wind we were having. But it was slight. All in all, I recommend the brace. And, I filled Big Blue up today and discovered that I'd been running on the 19 gallon rear tank rather than the 16 gallon front tank. Which explained why the gauge was showing 1/4 tank with 160 miles on it. Anyway, we got 10.6 MPG yesterday and I wasn't even thinking of economy, with several bursts at full throttle and lots of 70+ MPH driving. Plus a serious wind which we were bucking or cutting across most of the day. So, it is getting a bit better. However, the carb needs tuned if I hope to get better MPG. In fact, it needed tuned for better throttle response as the AFR was running up to a bit over 16 as we climbed hills and before the metering rods popped up and the mix dropped into the 13's and the engine found new life. I didn't know what jetting is in the carb, but today I pulled the metering rods and found that they are stamped 7547, which Edelbrock says are their #1459's and have a .075" main diameter and a .047" tip. However, I measured them at .063" x .037". And having measured several other rods of varying sizes it looks to me like the rods measure .012" smaller on the main section and .010" smaller on the tip than they are rated. EDIT: I discovered that my dial calipers LIE! I got to wondering if that might be the case so pulled a 1" micrometer out today. Yep, the metering rods are exactly what they say, not what my calipers said. IOW, I took .075 x .047" rods out and put .073 x .042 rods in. So I enrichened the cruise and the power jetting slightly. Anyway, I installed 7342 rods, which I measure to be .061" x .032". So I made both the cruise and power setting slightly richer. And I took it for a drive and that certainly helped the cruise mode. Now the AFR will climb up to about 16 before the rods pop up, and the engine has a bit more pep. But, it is also a bit richer on power. So, I'm faced with a dilemma - do I spend the time to dial in the Edelbrock? That would require pulling the top off to find out what jets are in it, and then spending a day or so dialing it in - if I have the right jets and rods. Or do I put the Street Demon on and see how its AFR is? That would require some minor inlet plumbing changes and probably work on the throttle cable bracket. Or do I live with it for a while as I do other things on the truck and hope I can get the EFI on before going to CO in the summer? Thoughts?

You'll love it. Set it up and forget it.

Yes, it was originally attached with Velcro. Not sure how I'll attach it, but since it'll hold the 3000 watt inverter it might need more than Velcro. We shall see. My intent, beyond the inverter, is to put flashlights, gloves, and other "necessary" items back there for easy access. And, since some of my flashlights are rechargeable, I'll have ac power from the inverter to charge them.

Nice, for sure. But $30k?????????