Gary Lewis

Ahhh! Ok, so it is temp.

Yes, welcome! Sorry I'm late to the party. First, we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu). Would you like to be added? Second, I'm not seeing an orange wire in the EFI wiring diagram. Did you say you are? If so, which wire is it? And, what is the "trace" color on the wire? Almost all the wires on these trucks have a second color, and knowing that would help me find out what it is.

I think I'm with your co-worker. Did you fix the original source of the water that rusted the floor out? Did you clean the flaky rust off and paint the floor with something like POR-15 to stop the rust. Did you somehow seal the floor to the new sheet of metal you laid in there? If not water will get in when driving in the rain.

Scott - I do hope you get to see Big Blue in person, again, next year. Or maybe sooner. Especially since that will mean we are free of the virus. Jim - No C2 pump noise and no belt squall. Just a healthy 460 rumbling. Jim/George - My cover didn't get installed. Vernon ordered it and it was part of the deal. But it wasn't in a box, so I'm guessing the crack happened in the transfer. We had TONS of parts to load/unload. As for the color, if I didn't have the can of paint and all the prep supplies I might have gone for one of the already-painted covers. But then I'd have had the problem you had, George, of which blue. I looked at the pictures on the screen and couldn't tell. Besides, when I put the cover on Rusty (I think it was Rusty) I found that the Coverlay color and the Ford color were a little different. So I vowed that the next time I did it I'd paint the combination once I got the cover on.

No need to delete it. There's a link in it to the other thread. Or someone may want to try the Superbrights LED's that Berrybunch recommended.

I like it!

We have a thread for that, and I'd recommend you start here with your reading as I found a good replacement.

Yes, that one is for 1980 - 82. And the servo up through '83 was the same. But I think the servo will interchange up through '87.

Which "that", the card or the QR code? We actually had a Window Sticker Contest thread but the last post was in May and nothing came from it. Maybe we need to revive it?

Here's what I have: The front of the card: businesscard.pdf The QR code for the back: Looks like: And:

Well, several steps forward and one backward is still progress. First, I installed a 2.5 second LRC voltage regulator in the alternator because I've been getting a belt squeal on startup. Apparently the serpentine belt can't handle the sudden load when the regulator sees the voltage down a bit from starting. So when I got it installed I left the lights on for 5 minutes before starting the truck. And in spite of that there was NO squeal! In fact, I watched as the voltage came up smoothly to 14v. As for the painting, I cleaned and painted the brown door handle grommets. They aren't perfect, but will be a lot better than the ugly cutouts in the door panels for the handles. And I painted the kick panel vents as well as the A-pillar trim. Here are some pics, and despite the color differences, they are really all the same. But, speaking of the dash cover, I pulled the dash pad off and here 'tis with all of its warts: So I poked out the speaker holes, which just almost fell out: Then I pulled out the Coverlay dash cover that Vernon sent with Big Blue, and found a minor problem. So, I have another one on order from LMC 'cause their price is $119 for a black one vs $159 with JBG for any color. And, since I have the paint I went for black. I still have the metal trim I want to paint since it has some scrapes and bare spots, but I'm going to wait until the dash cover comes in and I get it painted. That way I'll know how much of the 3rd, and last, can of paint I have left.

George - Thanks, but I think we'll stay with the '85/86 door pockets that we already have. They are in good shape. (Now, if the 6x9 speaker thing had worked out that might have been a different story as I'd disable the mid & tweeter and use it as a sub.) As for checking the other door panels, please do. We might as well get as much info on this as possible.

Glad you got it in! And you are right, it won't be coming out w/o a lot of work.

Wow! Brutus is looking GOOD! Congrat's, Nick & George! And, it is nice meeting other Bullnose owners. I carry my "business card" with info about this forum and pass it on to them, or put it under their windshield wiper if they aren't around.

My first thought was that it is a choke bi-metallic spring. But one of those should be more like a silver dollar size. And there should be a different end on the inside piece - it should be straight there to go through the split shaft. So, might it be bigger? And does the inside end seem to be rough like it is broken off?

Now you are back to the question of what you want to do with the truck. If you want to do the Baja 500 you'll want the coil-sprung TTB's as they give the most compliant suspension and keep the tires planted. They keep the un-sprung weight down on each tire and are more supple. Lots of people still swear by them, although there are those that don't understand them that swear at them. But nobody swears by the leaf-sprung TTB's.

Yep - Didn't and don't want the taller 350 blocks. Was thrilled when the front end came up level with the rear.

Actually, with stock rear suspension my SAS/RSK/SD spring swap slightly reduced the liftover height at the tailgate. That's cause the front came up and the rear of the tailgate rotated down a bit. Not much, but it sure didn't get higher.

I'll analyze this later, but here are the original part numbers and it looks like there were 1982 parts being introduced amoungst the 1980 and '81 parts during 1982. Will try to update the MPC later and then update the page on door panels from that.

Yes, it is for a truck that came with a headliner. So the metal trim at the top should go on after the Highliner installs.

Good points, Jim. I missed that.

Belay that! I realized that I can't put the Highliner in until I have the coax connector in the back of the cab. And, even with the connector in I'll also need the antenna so I can splice the connectors into its lead-in. So, I ordered the Midland ORMXT115VP MICROMOBILE®-GXT BUNDLE. Then I ordered this weatherproof BNC bulkhead connector and this weatherproof male connector. That should let me install the highliner and finish up the interior trim.

The reading off the radiator hose of 159 is the one to use. The one off the engine of 251 is probably getting some heat from the exhaust system, but it doesn't really matter as we are concerned with the cooling system. But the 159 reading is lower than I would have expected. Was your engine really/fully warmed up? If so, I would have expected it to be close to whatever thermostat is in there. And, unless that reading is an error, your engine certainly isn't overheating. And your fan seems like it is working well. So, if you had driven the truck and it was fully warmed up, then I'd take a few more readings on the upper radiator hose and thermostat housing. If they are consistent at ~160 I'd assume there's a 160 'stat in there. Then you have to decide what you want for a thermostat. Personally I like the factory 195. But I'd want to know that the readings you are seeing are consistent with the 'stat. Then you can troubleshoot the temp gauge, knowing that the cooling system is "right".