Gary Lewis

I emailed the two of you.

Ok, when I get into it I'll check. Thanks.

Where are those three screws? It looks like they are the ones holding the lower bearing in, and if that is so then they are tight.

Jeff - In phpBB you should be able to start a new topic by selecting one of the existing forums. For instance on the home page, the first page you get to when selecting Test Forums/phpBB Test Forum in the menu, it says "Forum" and then lists the forums I've created starting with New Members Start Here and ending with General Discussion. You can select any of those forums and then start a new discussion in it. But you may not be able to create new "forums" as you aren't an admin. I don't know, but you can tell me. As for InVision, I don't see a way to pin things, although I could easily be missing it. But you can filter things by: recently updated; title; start date; most viewed; most replies; or custom. However, that doesn't mean that what you see is what I see. So it looks like phpBB is very structured. You have a set of forums and post topics within them. And InVision doesn't look structured at all. But I've not set InVision up the way I have phpBB so I'm guessing that it could be structured as well. Maybe I need to take some time to structure InVision like phpBB is? Your thoughts, please.

Sorry, but I don't have anything that shows that wiring. I jump from 86 to 96 if I remember correctly.

Jim - That is awful! I'm so sorry! Dad was never diagnosed as to what type of dementia he had, but it was obvious he had some form of it. And it is a terrible disease. So, so sorry!

Go to our page on Documentation/Exterior/BEDS, TAILGATES, & COMPONENTS and then to the Tailgates tab and the Illustrations tab. There you'll see all the bits for the 1980 - 82 tailgate and then the 1983 - 86 tailgate, including the bumpers. Then go to the Changing Tailgates tab and it'll show you the difference between the two support systems and explain how to put a later tailgate on an earlier bed. But it says "So, while it would be possible to install the later latch on an earlier gate or vice versa, I don't think that is a good approach due to the different clearances cut on the 'gate to clear the cable as well as the differences in bolt holes." I'm not saying it can't be done, but I'd look into what it is going to take before drilling and/or cutting. And please let us know if you do it so we can update that page with how you did it.

Jeff - I'm not sure what "that way" you mean. The way you laid out will work, but with only RF to the center speaker you'll have an out of balance sound. The way I initially advocated, with the RF + and LF - to the center speaker, and then RF to the RF speaker and LF to the LF speaker gives a center channel and balance. But for some reason it may have contributed to blowing Larry's head unit, so let's not do that. The last way I suggested, of using a dual voice coil speaker in the center channel and connecting the LF to one coil and RF to the other coil would not blow any head unit. And if you then connect the LR to the RF speaker and RR to the RF speaker you'd have an easy way to select how much center channel you have. Full front would be all center, full rear would be no center.

No, Jeff. Wanted to finish the clutch switch bypass and power steering leak before tackling the noise issue. But now with that done I realize that our grandtwins arrive on Wednesday and they may want to drive the truck while here. So I'll put a bit of oil on the spot where it is sliding and grinding and wait until they are gone before taking the steering apart. So it'll be about 10 days before I get to that.

You are now on the map.

I've not used clear much. Did on something as I have a can, but the guy at SEM said it wasn't required so I haven't been doing it.

Vivek - Yes, they may not have been "tight enough". They are now. Jeff - I replaced the steering box in late October, so after the show. You can see it here. Made a huge difference. Probably have only 500 miles on it - a trip to Ponca City and a trip to Stillwater. You may be right about them not being tight enough.

Those are the same lines that were working fine on the previous steering box. So it isn't the flare. Maybe it just wasn't tight enough?

Yep, it is a flared fitting so the threads aren't what seals it. The flare does. But if flare leaks there will be oil around the threads. I tightened it TIGHT and started it up. There was no oil coming out. But since the level in the pump is below the reach of the dipstick I didn't want to run it very long. The quart I ordered won't be in until Wednesday, so in the interim I think I'll clean it up and take it for a spin to see if it makes the same mess. Won't go very far, but far enough to get it good and warm. And I'll do the tests Jonathan suggested.

Glad you got that fixed, Stein. Beautiful pic!

I'll check that, Jonathan. Thanks. But I should have said that I've checked all the other lines and they are dry. Not a bit of lube anywhere except on the front of the frame and the fender liner.

Jonathan - At my age I'm well aware that it won't be just my kids that drive my trucks but my grandkids. I can't put them in jeopardy by giving them something that will accidentally start in gear. And with the EFI it doesn't take but a nudge on the starter and it is running - even in 1st gear & high range, which I proved today.

Thanks guys. You've helped me get this thing working, and I appreciate it. Now to update the documentation and move on to the next thing - the power steering leak. I'd appreciate your opinions there.

The other day when Steve/FoxFord33 and I took Big Blue to Stillwater and back, a round trip of about 200 miles, I noticed some drops of oil on the pavement where we'd been. I checked the power steering system and it was low, so today I started looking for the leak and I think I've found it - but want all of y'alls input. The first thing I noticed was the driver's side frame is wet. You can see that there's a drop of lube on the bolt head at the top of the picture on the left, but what you can't really tell is that the frame is wet in lube. Second thing I noticed was that the driver's side inner fender is wet - on the front. But there are no hoses of any kind on the top side. In fact, there's no oil on the top side, so this oil had to come a different way. The third thing I noticed was that the fittings to the new Blue Top steering box are peeking through the opening between the frame and the fender liner. And if one of those was leaking it might spray the inner fender and that would run down on the frame. So then I looked closely at the fittings and found that there was oil showing in the threads of the larger one, which you can see in the very last pic. I was able to tighten both of them up - some. So, do you think this could be the leak? I've refilled with as much Royal Purple Synchromax as I have, but it is still low so I don't want to drive it until I get it filled up. However, I don't see a leak now, so???? http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/waving_orig.gif (Don't get sidetracked on the Purple Max thing. Since this system is for both power steering and hydroboost braking I was afraid that the lube would get hot, so did some research and this is what Royal Purple's tech recommended for the application.)

Success!

Same axles as Big Blue is sitting on. Lots of strength there!

Cool! I'll have to watch it later 'cause I'm working on Big Blue.

There are several ways of embedding a Youtube. Those are described on the page at Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's and then the Embedding tab.

I think you can upload the file on a response using the More/Upload option. But I confess I've not used it much. If you get it uploaded then I'll come up with a page for 3D printer files. If not you can get it to me via Dropbox, Google Drive, or One Drive.

You are now on the map. And I assume that your 2wd to 4wd conversion is on F100's and F150's. That's 'cause the frames on F250's & 350's are quite different in the front between 2wd and 4wd with the 2wd.