Gary Lewis

Aaron - Looking at the pic, I'm not sure it is the front "china wall" seal on the manifold. As Jim said, they usually leak a lot. In the pic it looks like the leak is from the driver's side near the sender I circled, which is probably the temp sender. I'd do exactly as Jim said and clean that area thoroughly. But I'd go one step farther and stick paper towels in there in a way that they'll stay and tell you where the oil is coming from. As for the distributor's o-ring, it might be it so go ahead and replace it. But I see a path of oil from above there, so doubt it is that o-ring.

Yes, Jim is right. Go to Documentation/Electrical/Ignition and then the Ignition Switch tab for instructions on how to adjust it, which also discusses the lack of returning to Run and how to lube it.

Yes, looking good! And woodgrain for the door inserts?

Ahhh! I see what you were saying! The splines on the output shaft for the yoke. No, the yoke isn't a tapered fit. It has splines and they appear to be fine. But now that you mention it, might not have been if I'd kept on driving. So from that standpoint I'm glad that the speedo gear started slipping so that I caught it.

Looks good, Jim. Huck - the truck that keeps on giving.

Yippee! It's alive! I think once you run it the numbers may change, so I wouldn't worry about it until then.

Jim - There aren't any splines. The driven gear gets sandwiched between the output bearing's inner race and the front of the yoke by the nut. But the nut was loose so the gear could spin. Shaun - I don't think it will fix the speed control issue. But at least I'll have tested and proven every single part of the speed control so if it doesn't work right it has to just be "the way it is". There are two possible exceptions. One is that the module Bill sent may have better logic in it as it is a much later vintage. And, it is possible that David's suggestion of placing some slack in the chain may help - in spite of it being against what the FSM says.

Two things to report. First, I made a tool with which to remove and install the yoke. Works good, at least for removal. Started with an 1/8" piece of strap and I drilled it to take the 4 bolts and then put a 1 3/4" hole in the center for the socket. Then I ground the last 1 1/4" of a 15" long piece of 1" x 1" angle down to just slip in the bearing cap opening, and welded it to the strap where the welds wouldn't hit the yoke. The 15" allows it to catch the right side frame for removing the yoke, and it'll go up against the floor of the cab for installation. Here's a shot of the welds on the front side: And here's a shot with a yoke sitting on it: Now, here's a shot of it in use: Once I got the tool installed I found that the nut on the yoke wasn't torqued down as it should have been. The speedo gear is supposed to be sandwiched between the yoke and the output bearing's inner race, forcing it to turn. And, if it isn't tight it'll slip. So this was self-inflicted. But, to find that out I needed to pull the yoke and remove the seal, ruining it of course. But then the speedo gear just slides out. Turns out it is in perfect shape, so I just need to order a new seal and put it back together. Here are a couple of shots of the gear:

Congratulations!!!! 👍

I want to get it out to make sure what I have. If it is a 7 or 8 then that's what I want to go back with as the speedo is now spot-on. Making the tool to hold the yoke now....

Well, I don't think the drive gear is the problem. I mean, if I just rest my finger on it through the speedo hole and rotate the output shaft it seems to rotate. That's ok, right? Surely it should slip like it does when you push moderately on the gear, right? Shouldn't it take a hard push to make it slip?

I'm not familiar with him, but you are right - it would be EASY to make a tool. Several approaches, but I have angle and plate, so a piece of plate drilled to take the bolts and a hole in the middle for the socket, with a piece of angle welded to it would do the trick easily. Thanks!

Jim - Glad you checked in. Good to hear from you. I do hope this will be a MUCH better year for all of us.

That is a whole lot of truck for the money. But my rule-of-thumb is that if I can't drive it to see what is bad that they didn't tell me about I have to assume a lot more is. And I'm not sure that having said "Fuel pumps need replacement" and "Recommended tow/haul away" that I'd be able to drive it. Having said that, in this pic it looks to be running:

The hardware store in my home town had the motto of "Yes, we have it". And I like to think that's our motto here. But sometimes you have to ask the librarian where it is.

Go to Documentation/Body/STATIONARY GLASS - WEATHERSTRIP SEAL. That section from the factory shop manual should help.

Good point. Perhaps I was thinking of the front yoke. For the rear I could, and maybe did, put a 15/16" on a breakover and lock the engine via the balancer bolt.

Wow, that was

These tires are 33's.

I used the impact to get them off last time, but found that low range and 1st gear with the brake set was enough to torque it back up.

That's encouraging. Thanks, Scott. I may get to it tomorrow, but may not. Greg, my Nabble mentor, came up with an interesting idea about the time he went to bed tonight (6 my time & midnight his) and I may want to follow that up tomorrow after church. We shall see. According to the previously posted table as well as this table a BW1345 should have either a 7 or 8-toothed drive gear. Not sure how this one got what appears to be a 6. But that would explain why I might need to go to a smaller driven gear but can't. IOW, if I have to replace it I may want to go with a 7 or 8-toothed drive gear to give a bit more range on the driven gear.

Oops! Been there, done that. But it sounds like you are in good hands!

Yep, that's the real Mr Clean! FOG = Flareside Owners Group. As for how I'm doing, Janey and I have both gotten our 1st vaccine shot.

Yep, that Bill. I'm just wondering if this really is Chris. I tagged him.

I think that is green. Here's the best pic I could get: And according to this a green gear would have 6 teeth, which seems about right from what I can see. I guess there's a possibility that it is blue and the ATF has stained it?