Gary Lewis

I remember reading about that on this site, which makes me nervous to by product from them, but at half the price it seems worth the risk. It is worth it. Just make sure you are ordering the right thing and check it when it comes in to be sure it is what you ordered.

I just right-clicked your pic links and copied the link. Then clicked Insert Image and pasted the link in, but wiping out the "http" stuff that is already there. But your pics are too big, meaning over 1MB, for posting full sized. So I clicked Big Size.

With Rock less expensive, right? That's frequently true where a manufacturer has an agreement to keep their prices high so the outlets can make a profit. But when dealing with Rock Auto make SURE you are getting what you need as returns are painful. And check the product IMMEDIATELY when it comes in as there are been several instances of not getting the right ACC product of late, and you only have a limited time to return it. Rock is NOT easy to deal with.

Glad you found the illustration you need. But it sound like you have a booster problem. That's the big round thing behind the master, and what usually happens is that the master leaks brake fluid into the booster, which then breaks down internally. In the brake section there's a test for the booster. I think it is in the General tab, but I'm not sure. Something to do with standing on the brake with the engine off then starting the engine.

Welcome. It is subtle and hard to see w/o zooming in. I wonder how he did that on something as thick as a bumper?

Glad it is helping. Brakes are at Documentation/Driveline/Brakes.

LOL! Not sure it would make it as there's a 40 mile stretch with no gas stations.

That's really well done. At first I thought that he'd just cut holes, but now that I look at it closely I see he's raised the area around the hole to mimic the raised edge on the top and bottom of the front face of the bumper.

Welcome! They'll go out this afternoon. I have an errand to run so will send them then.

The certification label on the driver's door post has a lot of info. Decode it here: Documentation/Specifications/Certification Label. There probably is a "buck tag" on the firewall as well as one on the front of the bed which allowed the factory to marry the two pieces on the assembly line. There was just a thread about that called Bed Tag Info. But it doesn't have as much info as the certification label.

You need to learn how to post pics on here. There is info on that at Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's in the menu. But here's the one you linked to:

When I bought my 2015 F150 I parked him next to Rusty, the 1981 F150 that Clay now has, and dubbed him "Big Blue". But then I acquired my 1985 F250 and quickly realized that it was bigger than the 2015, so it became Big Blue and the 2015 was demoted to Blue. It is all in the perspective. But a 6-door 2005 F650 dually? Man, that is PERSPECTIVE!

Big Blue is sealed so well that opening the kick panel vents or turning the HVAC system to something like Vent doesn't do much. But if you crack a window, open a wing vent, or crack open the sliding back window you get a lot of air and your ears tell you the pressure dropped. And closing the doors takes a firm hand - unless a window is open. There is a huge difference.

Scott - Sometimes it is one time, only. But sometimes it is multiple. And hot or cold. But I can't feel it save for an overall shudder, much like a kick back on starting. But I don't think there's an inspection plate to remove, although I'll look. Jim - It doesn't stay engaged. It is only during cranking. You are cranking, get the noise and a bit of shudder, and it keeps cranking. And since it doesn't seem to happen on the initial engagement I don't think it is bad mesh. It happens during the cranking, not as you let up on the key. If I go with a fender-style relay I'll just pull the trigger wire off the starter and run that as well as power to the new relay, and then a new wire down to the starter. But if the cube relay is now failing and it would do the same to the larger relay and I won't have learned anything. So I guess the first step should be to replace the cube relay and see if it goes away for a while and then comes back. If so then I need to consider rewiring and just use a fender-mounted relay.

Question for y'all. I've been having a "clunk" or a "clang" as I start Big Blue from time to time. It kinda sounds like something hitting the fan, but it is a bit more solid than that. Doesn't happen often, but when it does it gets my attention. And I wake up at night thinking about it. I'm wondering if the little Ford relay I'm using as the starter relay is making and then breaking and then making contact, causing the starter to engage, dis-engage, and re-engage. It seems like that would account for the sound. It doesn't happen often enough that if I replaced the relay I'd know that was it - at least for a while. But I carry two spares in the glove box so I could and see if that makes a difference. Or, I've been thinking about installing one of the big fender-style relays somewhere out of the way and being done with the worry about it. Either replace the little Ford relay completely or use the little Ford relay to pull in the larger relay/solenoid. Thoughts? Suggestions? Other ideas on what is happening?

Nice truck, Randy. Is it an Explorer? Most with that hood ornament are Explorers, although the ornament was available from the parts department. As others will tell you, a 302 w/a 5-speed can make a very nice combo.

Ok, 194 it is. If you look at the embedded page above, which is from the Documentation/Specifications/Electrical Specifications page you'll see I've struck through the original #'s and added "194". We aren't recommending what people use but just trying to document what the truck came with.

Cool! Just right for St. Patrick's Day!

I don't know what you have. But I'll bet Bill/85lebaront2 does, so I'm going to tag him. He ran a carb and ignition shop for decades and has forgotten more than I'll ever know.

No prob, glad you read the guidelines. And you are now on the map.

Yes, that looks good! A good upgrade.

Welcome! Glad you joined. I see on another thread you told me about St Paul. I'll get you on the map and report back on the other thread.

Welcome to the forum! Glad you joined. However, you missed the email we sent you approving your membership. In that we asked that you go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then post an intro thread there. Why? Because we keep our guidelines there and want you to have a chance to read them because we hold everyone to them. So, have you read them? And, where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we could add you if we had a state/city or zip. As for the EGR, it sounds like you left the EGR plate off. Yes?

Don't have a lot to report for today. Did a few other things besides working on Big Blue, but I did get the driver's side lock motor installed, the wiring run from it to the location where the security system will be, and everything put back together on the driver's side. And there were lots of things that were apart, including the door panel, map pocket, moisture barrier, and kick panel vent. While I'm on the driver's side I still need to run power from the fuse box for the security system. And a new ground as they are adamant that you should not use a ground that anything else is using.

Did you keep the switch that had the bad wire? Can you put it back but protect the wire? Just for testing?