Gary Lewis

It does sound like a plan is coming together! The latest info on EF and their blocks as well as willingness to work with you seems like an extremely good fit. And having had problems pouring the shop floor when we got a hot load on a hot day with too few helpers makes me realize how important having the right help can be.

It varies. From our page at Documentation/Driveline/Transfer Cases and the Applications tab:

Absolutely. My wife and I've been to both rims of the Canyon, hiked it as well as ridden the mules down, and have even seen an inversion in it. And we've been on Powell several times. Plus we driven all over the area. And, we've floated the Green River. Last, I've read every one of Zane Grey's books, many of which are about that area. Love the area!

As an update on this subject, I just ordered the TEMCo Hydraulic Cable Lug Crimper TH0006 V2.0 5 US TON. But instead of ordering it from Amazon, where the cost is $114.95 and is supposed to be "In stock on April 21, 2021", I ordered it from TEMCo where the cost was $103.46. And while their website says it is supposed be in stock today, Drew said it will be "a couple more days", and that if I'd order online I'd go to the head of the line for it. Further, we discussed the "wings" that I've been getting as well as the idea of getting a specification for the size of a properly-crimped terminal. On the wings, he said just to fold them back in, as I've been doing, because they aren't harmful. But he said I'm not going to find a spec on a properly-crimped terminal because that depends on the die, the terminal, and the # of strands in the wire used. So since the terminal manufacturer doesn't know what die nor wire is going to be used they can't provide a spec. Having said that, he's confident that with their AWG die and the fact that you get intermediate die, meaning the equivalent of a #11 between 12 and 10, we can find the right combo of die, terminal, and wire that gives a clean crimp. So I ordered it and will let you know.

It is still "them"... look closely at the "C" pillar on the driver's side. You are right, David. Well spotted!

Sorry, didn't see your numbers for some reason before I posted.

As close as I can get, but there was no option for DRW.

I put those side-by-side so you could compare the curves, but I realize they are hard, if not impossible, to read, so here they are full sized. Here's Dad's: Here's Big Blue:

Just a bit more info: It looks like I'll probably not only insure Big Blue with American Modern Insurance Group, but also Dad's truck. As part of that process I was trying to figure out the value of Dad's truck so I used Hagerty's site again. And I was struck by the different curves for values of Dad's truck vs Big Blue and thought you might be similarly surprised. Dad's truck, meaning a 1981 F150 RCLB 4WD automatic w/a 351M on the left and Big Blue, meaning a 1985 F250 RCLB 4WD manual w/a 460, on the right:

Yes, very nice. And I do like the wheels.

Good eye, David! I missed them. Or at least "it" as we don't know what's on the other side.

Wow! Your vehicles take a BEATING! Even the bumpers rust through, much less the sheet metal.

You are now on the map. But why can't you stay? Are they coming to take you away?

Wonderful! Man, that would be such a huge bummer to get that far and have to go back and rework something.

My M5OD-R2 trans came out of what I considered to be light duty F250. It was a 1991 F250 2wd with 302, 5spd, and 3.08 diff. I've told the story before, but the guy was doing a Cummins swap in the truck, so he had the engine and trans for sale...but since the truck was an F250, he had the trans listed for sale as a ZF5. He said people kept messaging him to tell him the trans he had was not a ZF5, so he relisted it as the M5OD, and that is when I found it...only a half a mile away from my office, right here in the industrial park. Yep, the non-HD F250's had a lighter duty driveline. I was not aware of that until I got Big Blue and noted the HD designation. Then I started looking for the LD's.

Yes, good you found it. And changing the speedo drive gear on a 1345 is easy as well. Just remember to tighten the output shaft nut.

Well done, Bill! As Jim said, you are going to have a cool drop-top cruiser one of these days.

Jim - If you have a link I probably can post it.

You are now on the map. And you live in a beautiful part of the country.

Didn't look that far, Bill. But I do remember that from before.

Try it now, but refresh first.

There was like 5 coats of house paint on them. I'll give the brake cleaner a try. I'll try carb cleaner too. My experience is that the O'Reilly's house brand brake cleaner is serious stuff, but some other brands just don't "cut" it.

David - My first thought as I was reading your post, before I got to the bottom, was that you have a ground problem. Then I saw where you cleaned the contacts and the ground connection, and seemingly it is working correctly. At least for now. It did that intermittently before, so do you think it will do that again?