Gary Lewis

Yes, some people should just not play mechanic. Man, what a mess! How many tries did it take someone to mess up so many things? Surely he didn't do it in one go, so why didn't he stop on the first error?

I don't have any tips. But have you compared your procedure with the one set out on our page at Documentation/Electrical/Electronic Engine Control (EEC) and then the EEC-IV and Code Checking tabs?

I think your plan on the electronic speedo is a good one. And I like the plug. But that pinion looks like a problem. You may have to heat that bearing.

Well, I think the light I'm seeing is the end of the tunnel! Not a lot of progress, but I pulled the dash cover, interior windshield trim, A-pillar trim, and GMRS radio. Then I ran a white/purple wire to extend the switched power from the clock to the area where the GMRS radio is in the Highliner. That plus the always-hot power feeds the Pormido power module. That module is a disc about 2" in diameter and 1" thick, and turns the 12v into 5v for the mirror. But it also has a battery monitor which turns the power to the mirror off if the battery voltage drops below one of three preset values: 11.3V, 11.8V or 12.1V. That's so you can leave it on 24/7 if you want in case you park in a questionable area and want the cameras to be taking snapshots at 2 frames/second. Anyway, that module has an adhesive patch on the back and I'll mount it in the radio cavity of the Highliner. Then I ran the power to the mirror, added the GPS antenna above the mirror, and started running the camera leads. The camera leads will be stuffed up above the Highliner, with the front lead going down the A-pillar and the rear camera then going down the B-pillar. So the plan for tomorrow after church is to finish the power wiring and then run the camera leads.

My paint/body man said we'll use an adhesive, but I didn't ask exactly how. I think you want it up against the bottom of the cowl so stuff can't get between the screen and the cowl. And if you just glue it to the edges I'm afraid it'll droop. I wonder if you can squeeze adhesive through the screen and into the back side of the louvers? Or, maybe JB Weld studs into the back side of the louvers and push the screen down over them and put nuts and washers on the studs to hold the screen up. And you could put a "spreader" on each stud and hide it under the louver.

Sorry, I missed the previous post. Glad you are getting the pinging sorted. Maybe you are "there"? And, glad you are finding that taking up the clamps, or adding one, seems to solve minor problems. As for the dizzy it is from a 1980 truck, and these are the possibilities: CALIBRATION PARTS LIST NO. 1 (Calibration No, 0-51F-R0) - 6 Cyl. 300 C.I.D. (4.9L) 1980 F250 - - 2/W/D-M/T exc. Calif. 1980 F-U150/250 - - 4/W/D CALIBRATION PARTS LIST NO. 5 (Calibration No. 0-51M-R0) - 6 Cyl. 300 C.I.D. (4.9L) 1980 E250 - - M/T CALIBRATION PARTS LIST NO. 49 (Calibration No. 0-51F-R10) - 6 Cyl. 300 C.I.D. (4.9L) 1980 F250 - - 2/W/D-M/T exc. Calif. 1980 F-U150/250 - - 4/W/D And here's the full #1 parts list:

It isn't fun. It would be scary on new paint. And I missed the year in your sig. Sorry.

Check with Tabco for the panels. Not sure what you mean by "safety switch", but I just checked the 1982 EVTM, which we don't have on the site, with the 1981 EVTM and they are the same for the tailgate wiring. And here 'tis:

Thanks, David. That helps a bunch. So 26 MPG was available, but at a driveability cost. As for the camshaft, I haven't found specs for them. However, if you go to our page at Documentation/Engines/300 Six and then the Specifications page you can see that in some years there were several different ratings for torque, and at different RPM. For instance, here are the 1983 specs. You can see that the Fuel Saver package got a bit higher compression ratio. And the F-150 4x2 w/Man. Trans. & 2.47 axle had more torque at a lower RPM than any other combination. This is an embedded Microsoft Office PDF, powered by Office.

I can only speak to the 5.0L, but it is my understanding that the 5.0 pickups with automatics got MAF in 1995, and the manuals did not. In 1996 both manuals and autos got MAF. The 1995 F150 5.0 I bought to junk for the chassis was a 5spd truck and was not MAF. I was just curious what the MAF scoop was on the 5.8L. Since they kept using the 5.8L a full year after the 5.0L was discontinued in the pickups, I was curious if it ever got the "upgrade". My friend Chris has a 1997 F350 same as the one here, and it has a build date of 11/97 so they must have built them right up until the end of the calendar year. Well that’s interesting! I would not have thought that the transmission would make a determining factor. As it turns out I have the 1996 EVTM, and the difference between MAF and speed density on a 5.8L is the GVW rating. Trucks with a GVW of under 8500 got MAF, and trucks over that got speed density - regardless of what transmission they have. Similarly the trucks with 7.5L engines got speed density, with the exception of those with California specifications, which got MAF. I'm guessing that speed density was less expensive for Ford, so they used it except where the law forced them to a system that happened to use MAF. For instance the EEC-IV system used in the trucks didn't have an OBD-II interface, but EEC-V did and it had MAF. Looking at this site, California required OBD-II on all cars and light trucks in 1996. But the Feds apparently didn't require trucks over 8500 GVW to have OBD-II until later, and I've not found that date.

Oops, missed the bit about "pry". The retainers are usually a split ring that fits tightly. And you'll want to pry, or is that prise, on the fastener itself, not the emblem. But to do that you may have to pull the inner fender liner loose.

I wasn't saying they are Bronco II emblems. I'm saying they are both Bullnose Bronco and Bronco II emblems. I say that because they first came out in 1980, as shown with the "E0" part of the prefix. So they were used starting in 1980 and the B-II didn't come out until 1984 and most of its parts start with "E3" or "E4". But looking at the dealer books I can see that for 1980 and 81 the Broncos had the horse on the fenders right below the word BRONCO. And the trim level badge was on the B-pillar. However in '82 the horse was replaced by the trim level badge on the fender. So, what year is your Bronco? You don't have it in your sig, so...

I just did a Google search for E0TZ 16228-A and found this advertisement on ebay. And since this advert may well go away at any time I'm going to document it here. First, the title is NOS GENUINE 1980-90 Ford Bronco Horse Fender Emblem E0TZ-16228-A Bronco II 2 OEM. Note that the title says both "Bronco" and "Bronco II". I think that is correct as the MPC shows the same part number being used for both vehicles. And in the pics, as you'll see, there are barrel retainers slipped over the two pins. So to remove it you have to gently pry the retainer back and off the pin. Also, note the very last pic - of a Bullnose Bronco.

Matt - Glad you are finding the bits you need. It can be a whole bunch of work to find every last one - I know. On the horse emblem, our page at Documentation/Exterior/Name Plates says that is a Type 1, and that shows to have been on the front fenders. But I can't find an illustration that shows where they go. On top of that, none of the pictures I see in the brochures have them. So I'm doubting they were used. If your fenders don't have the holes for them then I don't think yours came with them.

I can only speak to the 5.0L, but it is my understanding that the 5.0 pickups with automatics got MAF in 1995, and the manuals did not. In 1996 both manuals and autos got MAF. The 1995 F150 5.0 I bought to junk for the chassis was a 5spd truck and was not MAF. I was just curious what the MAF scoop was on the 5.8L. Since they kept using the 5.8L a full year after the 5.0L was discontinued in the pickups, I was curious if it ever got the "upgrade". My friend Chris has a 1997 F350 same as the one here, and it has a build date of 11/97 so they must have built them right up until the end of the calendar year. I think I have the 1995 FSM and EVTM, so will check in a bit to see what they say about the 351W and MAF.

I don't think they were Alcoa. As you may remember, I had a set of the factory slotted mag wheels for my F150, and I don't recall them having Alcoa stampings on the back. So I don't think the bullet hole versions were either. Those two wheel styles were only offered from 1977-1981 if I remember correctly. They're pretty hard to find, and not exactly cheap either. I think I paid a few hundred for the ones on the F150. Thanks, Shaun. I thought I remembered you having a set of them. As for the MPG ratings, Ford appears to have made a few trucks with the Fuel Saver or Fuel Economy Leader package. See the info at Documentation/Bullnose FAQ's and then the 1982 - 83 F100 Pony tab. And given what few options there were and what came standard on the truck it was obviously an attempt to get the best MPG title. Note the use of the term "Pony". It appears to me that internally Ford employees called the Fuel Saver or Fuel Economy Leader trucks a Pony. I say that because none of the external documentation, like brochures, call it that, but plenty of the internal documents do. In fact, the TSB about the upshift light says 'F100 "Pony" ONLY Fuel Economy Leader', and the placement of the quotes around Pony seems to confirm my suspicions. If I remember correctly those trucks all came with the 300 six, 2.47 gears, and an overdrive transmission. I'm pretty sure David's son, Daniel, has one of them and from what David has said you had to downshift if you entered a county with a hill. I said "had" because I think they changed the gearing to make the truck more driveable. However, it did get remarkable MPG. I'm going to tag David and see if he'll correct what I've said as well as provide more info.

Yes if you have water coming in at that panel then you have dirt / leaves blocking the drain that is below that point. Pull off the kick panels and remove the 4 screws holding the metal block off panel in place and clean it out. Water should flow from the cowl down the pillars on either side and out the "duck bill" seal and out the bottom of the fenders. Now you may find after cleaning everything that the seam sealer is all dried up and failing so once dry that will need to be addressed. Some have used Flex Seal put a plastic nozzle with plastic straw so they can put the sealer where it needs to be. It comes in clear / white and think black maybe other colors? Because I had the nose off my truck I was able to use seam sealer after I removed the old bad sealer and reseal it with 2 coats. Dave ---- ps: if you can find good vent kick panels you can leave the metal panels off, install the vent panels and have flow through air. My truck did not have factory AC so it had the vents. When I added factory AC I left the vents as it was going to be a bit before I could get the AC system up & running. I have had issues with the system holding a charge so the vents come in handy LOL Yes, Big Blue has the 1987 and later pin cushion cowl, and it is keeping that area free of debris. But I'm going back with the original cowl on Dad's truck and will put plastic mesh on the back side. As for getting the cowl on/off without damaging it, I loosened the hood bolts and slid the hood to the farthest forward position and then snugged them down. That got me close on clearance, but it didn't get as much as I wanted. So I then left the bolts loose so the hood would angle a bit on the hinge to get even more clearance. But in that case you can't open the hood much or it'll slide back down, and you have to prop it open with something at the front end. And make sure to mark the position of the hinge before you do that. However, all of that is a major pain and chipping the paint is a real possibility. I think if I had new paint I'd protect it with tape. Or pull the hood completely off.

Peeling the onion. Peel, cry, peel, cry, but soon you'll have a Bloomin' Onion! Glad you got the wipers going. Not sure what to say about the intermittent part. Other than "good luck". As for the vents, I'd put weatherstripping on them. If you RTV the you'll never get them off - at least w/o breaking them. But you might want to keep the vents for air flow when you don't need the A/C. I added them to Big Blue and really like them.

This I have to see! You might be able to sell them as this could be a big upgrade for our trucks.

The umbrella doesn’t have to cover the whole of the head. Just needs to be big enough to get under to pull it out/off.

Thanks, Jeff. I like to document everything. But, I'm not sure if the light I'm seeing is another locomotive or the end of the tunnel. John - By "windshield and A-pillar trim" I meant the windshield trim and the A-pillar trim. I don't have to pull the windshield.

Nice! But you'd think that if he expects to get that kind of money he'd include a lot more pictures.

Yes, some had MAF, but I'm pretty sure this one doesn't have it. The MAF air inlet was a single tube, with the MAF unit being attached to the air cleaner, and this truck has twin tubes. No MAF.

I did get a response from Melissa, but she or the engineer thought my problem was a bad connection rather than too much wire. I tested everything by bending and stretching the connections but that was inconclusive. So I redid my connections and still had the problem. Given that I put the original connector back on the cable to the camera, and spliced the 2 meter extension back together. And it worked fine. So I measured the run and it looks like I need about 3' more than what the cable and 2 meter extension gives, so I ordered another 2 meter extension. It'll be here Sunday. Then I decided to pull the mirror mount off and drill a new hole to lower it as much as I could. My fear had been that the orange Loctite wouldn't let me remove the screw, but I hit it with my small impact and it came right out. And with a bit of measuring I determined that I could move the mounting hole up about 3/4" w/o either machining a flat on the plate that I have or making a new plate, both of which would then require powder coating. So I moved it up and reinstalled the mirror and it is certainly better. But if I were to make another adapter I'd move it up even more. With that done I decided I'd test the front camera in different locations to see where I want to put it. As it turns out that is on the bumper right above the fairlead. And the reason for that, beyond the way it looks, is because that position requires the least amount of down-angle on the camera in order to see the trailer ball. Here's a shot of where I'm planning on mounting it. But, in this pic the camera is mounted to the bottom of the box, and with the camera turned down as it is to be able to see the ball it "shoots" through the edge of the cover, which causes a bunch of distortion. So later I pulled the camera off the bottom of the box and mounted it to the top of the box so it won't shoot through the edge of the cover. (The box is painted with SEM black and I was pleasantly surprised that the 3M adhesive, which held the camera on very tightly, didn't peel the paint off. But I did follow SEM's directions on how to prep it, including using the right adhesion promoter.) And here's what you see in the display with the camera in that position. Note that I've scrolled all of the way down in this pic, but you can scroll up and the top of the field of view is then going up at a slight angle from horizontal, which I think will work out ok. Also note that with the camera mounted this way it can see the ground 24" in front of the front bumper, which is a whole lot better than the 144" when the camera is mounted at the top of the windshield. Here's what the camera now looks like in the box: Next I have to remove the dash cover and the windshield and A-pillar trim to run switched power to the mirror and the camera leads out to the cameras. I'm not really looking forward to this, but it needs to be done.

I don't know. Shaun? Someone?