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Gary Lewis

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Everything posted by Gary Lewis

  1. Ok, so you've found the right calibration code, as shown below. Tomorrow I'll scan that page in and post it, along with a close-up of the vacuum routing. CALIBRATION PARTS LIST NO. 392 (Calibration No. 4-51S-R02)-6 Cyl. 300 C.I.D. (4.9L) 1984/86 F150 - - 2/W/D-M/T-Calif
  2. Matt - You are right, just knowing the proper vacuum routing is not necessarily going to fix it. And your approach of capping everything would probably get it running correctly. But, then he'll need to know how to connect things back, and that's where the documentation comes into play.
  3. For some time I've been conflicted about how best to use the Projects folder. But in a conversation with John/Machspeed yesterday I think I figured out how I'll use it. (But you can use it however you want.) I like placing my threads, like Big Blue's Transformation or Installation Of A Pormido 998 Mirror/Camera System, in the main section of the forum since more people will see them there than in the Projects section. However, in the case of the Pormido mirror I want to create a new thread w/o comments and w/o all of my stumbling as I want to link to it from a review on Amazon. I think that will help others who might want to use that mirror and understand how I installed it. (But I'll have links in that thread to the current thread where all the to'ing and fro'ing is captured.) So when the mirror installation is done I'll create a new thread in the projects section that won't have all of the to and fro, and won't have anyone else's comments. How will I do that? Once I post I'll "lock" the thread by clicking Options/Lock Topic, as shown in the screen snag below. That means that no one can post in my thread, which will let me document what I've done "cleanly" so others can easily follow it. And you can do that yourself if you choose to do it. The Projects section is the only one, at this time, where anyone can lock their own thread. But in order to post in your own thread you'll have to unlock the thread. And since someone else might comment while you have it unlocked, I think I'll prepare my post elsewhere and then unlock, paste it in, post, and relock. Thoughts?
  4. That is a "buck" tag and was used on several pieces to bring them together on the assembly line. Beds, cabs, and some radiator supports had them. And I don't know how to decode them. Tomorrow I'll scan in the other 6 of the pages and post them so you can compare the vacuum diagrams to yours. You should find a match.
  5. E5AE-9C485-CLH is the part number for a blank sticker. But that sticker is not the calibration sticker. As said, if you have one it'll be on the valve cover. If you don't have one then tomorrow I'll scan all 7 of the pages like the one above and you can compare the vacuum routing diagrams to yours. When you find a match we are basically home as then we'll know all the details. Or, if your distributor is original and has a tag on I can find that number. Or if the carb is original and has the tag.
  6. Do you have a calibration code sticker on your valve cover or somewhere? It would be like the one shown below. If you do have, or if we can figure it out, I have the vacuum routing info. But since there are 7 different calibration codes for a 4.9L in 1985 we need to figure out which one you have. For instance, here's the info for 9-77J-R12, only I have it in paper form so can get it much sharper if needed: And then here's the parts list for that calibration:
  7. Welcome! Glad you joined. But we have a moderator with an '87 and no Bullnose. In fact, we have some members who don't even have a pickup. So you could have joined earlier. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu and we can add you with a city/state or zip. Hope you'll start a thread in the main section about your trucks - and please include pics.
  8. You are braver than I am with the silver soldering. But why not put a later model "pin cushion" cowl on? It'll solve the problem without a screen. However, if you stay with the Bullnose cowl I wouldn't use large washers as I think they'll be seen from above. I'd make long "spreader bars" that are about the same width of the metal of the cowl so they can hide under the cowl.
  9. Looks like you got one of the later badges, which are a bit darker than the Bullnose badges. But, they are available for about half the price of a Bullnose badge, and few know the differences so that's what I'm doing as well. As for masking, I asked because John/Machspeed and I were talking about that yesterday. The grille on Big Blue is all hacked up on the back because decided he wanted to put the massive engine oil cooler on the wrong way 'round. It isn't obvious from the front, but can be seen. That grille is dark in the egg crate, but I have one in better shape that is light in there. So I'm thinking of painting it, but it looks like a huge pain to mask. John said he opted to buy one rather than paint his. Of course, in the UK that's less of an option due to the price.
  10. Lake Havasu? So you've seen London Bridge? As have I. Boy, did McCulloch have a surprise! If I see one of those boats I'll flag you down. And, you are now on the map. The get together is the Saturday of Labor Day weekend, and there will be a dinner the night before for members and their wife/family/friend.
  11. .004" is excellent, especially on something that long. Hopefully the remove & reinstall solved the leak. Can't wait for the pics!
  12. Looks good! How hard was it to mask the grille? And, did you replace the Ford name plate when you painted the grille? It looks darker in the 2nd pic.
  13. So, have you fired it up? Is the leak gone? As for the motor mounts, those aren't that hard. You can pull the bolt on one side by jacking up slightly with a jack and board under the pan, then jack up more to get clearance.
  14. Yes, that was a particularly bad stretch. I remember looking at a Dodge Aspen during that time that was on the show room floor. I could see so many flaws in the body I was stunned. But Motor Trend said they were the car of the year. However, Motor Trend now says this: And: So I didn't buy the Aspen. Instead I bought an X-car. After having it a couple of years the recall badges went from fender to fender on the radiator support.
  15. Ha! I like that, but I was just trying to be funny.It has been suggested before, and I cannot find one that looks like our other emoticons - most of which are round faces.
  16. And you don’t have a Flareside!Yet. We need a popcorn eating emoji!What did you have in mind? Something like: https://acegif.com/wp-content/uploads/gif-eating-popcorn-48.gif
  17. No idea what you are talking about :nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig::nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig::nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig::nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig::nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig::nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig::nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig::nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig:
  18. Welcome! Glad you joined. Want to be on the map? (We don't put people on w/o approval.) Newcastle! Shame you don't have a decent lake down there. Bet you'll bring those boats up to a nice lake. On the Bronco, while I agree that more torque is good, you are very limited in what you can do with the speed-density EFI system. But a carbed 351W will fit nicely, although if you have the AOD tranny it might not like it. But that 460 will have the torque to tow. However, my 2015 F150 w/a 3/5L Ecoboost tows better than my 7.5L. Towed our 25' Sea Ray to Lake Powell and back with it and got 11 MPG. Big Blue gets 11 running light.
  19. Good thread. I appreciate it as it has helped me learn. Maybe it isn't "Bullnose", but it sure has helped me use my Bullnose.
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