Gary Lewis

Part number from earlier in the thread: E3FZ-61611C22-A I called a dealership in Oregon and they were able to locate a couple dealerships that show stock. I plan on calling them on Monday as they're closed now. I'm trying to avoid ebay as I don't have a US ebay or paypal account so I would have to go through the hassle of getting verified before I could order from there. I will be venturing out to the wrecking yards as well to see what I can find. Good luck!

I'm a little late to the party, but regardless of what the part says about the part number being "E3TB-8150-AA", that is not a part number in the Master Parts Catalog. In fact, "E3TB" as a prefix and "AA" as a suffix are surefire tipoffs that the number is an ID #. Here's the sum total of the entries for a grille in the MPC. And you can see that there's no E3TB nor AA. However, I'd bet that if I cross referenced ID# E3TB 8150-AA it would come up as part number E3TZ 8150-D. And yes, that would be for a Bronco II or the little Ranger.

Post the part number and someone might find them for you.

Thanks for that suggestion. But the owner's manual doesn't say that they should be mounted in an enclosure. In fact, it discusses installing them in a car door or rear deck, which certainly isn't a sealed enclosure. On the other hand, they do supply the spec's for Vas, so they could be used in an enclosure. And that brings up how to wire it. The Sony DSX-GS80 owner's manual includes the instructions below. Given that, I'm wondering how best to wire those RA speakers as well as the 4" speakers I have in the Highliner. Thoughts?

Thanks, Bruce. She said today that "I understand how urgent you need the front camera, we've been working on it, I will follow up closely with engineer, keep in touch~" And, speaking of communications with Pormido, she sent a link to the latest firmware and I installed it today. It gives the ability to zoom in/out on the rear camera, but their implementation is a bit different then expected. I assumed that I'd use two fingers on the display, but that didn't work. Then I realized that I have new icons on the display, one of which is the zoom button. In the picture below the zoom button is in the center group of icons and is the one on the far right - the white square in a yellow square. That toggles zoom on or off, and in the setup you get to decide how much zoom you want when you toggle it on. And the icons to the far right appear to be as follows: Lollipop: This apparently shows green when the GPS has a fix on you. But when looking at the GPS status page in the system there are two different ones: fixed and differential. Today the status was showing differential and the lollipop was green, so maybe that's the best? Oval: That has a number in the middle of it and it appears to show the length of each movie segment that is recorded. The options are 1, 2, & 3 minutes. Card: I don't know what that signifies. When that picture was taken I had a card in the system, so I would have expected it to be green. Battery: I don't understand this symbol as if there is no power the mirror is off. So I would think that the only time it can be on is when there is power. Anyway, I wrote Melissa a note asking about the icons and expect to get a reply soon.

If y'all have been waiting on an update on the Pormido mirror/camera system in this thread you've been missing all the fun in the Installation Of A Pormido 998 Mirror/Camera System thread. I have the system installed and am making changes to it - as explained there. However, as a result of getting the mirror system on and learning that there's too much light in the cab to see the image in the display easily I'm having the windows tinted. And the plan is to use a "carbon ceramic" film that is said to reduce IR by 88% and UV by 99.9%. But I'll have to pull the door panels to let the guy install the tint. And, as it turns out, he has COVID. So we are going to wait until he is well to put the tint on. But today I found something that is going to probably make a change to the sound system in Big Blue. And that's a pair Rockford Fosgate RFA-64 speakers. These are serious 6" speakers with a huge magnet and bass response to 39 hertz. So when I pull the door panels so the guy can put the window tint on I'll install these speakers. They should give a lot more bass than the speakers I have.

Janey has been on a mission to get some of the many, MANY things stored in the attic above the garage cleared out. So today I was going through some of my things and found this. How many of y'all have used one? This one was on the 390 in my '72 F250.

Interesting idea.

The belts on the bricknose trucks mount differently. There's a spot on the floor where the retractor mounts, as shown below:

By golly, you are right! I'll really be interested in what you find.

I don't know if the lengths on the retractable portions are the same, but I think they might be. But the inboard portion will be different, so the whole set gets a different part number.

I am planning on checking out some pick and pulls in my area here soon (though they're usually pretty skimpy on bullnose) so I decided to have a look at the part numbers. My truck is an 85 supercab and from what I can tell the only difference in part numbers in my case is the first 4 characters and only because I have red belts. This seems strange to me. were red interiors with captains chairs not a thing in the pickups? or does the E6TZ superceed the E4TZ? When I do get to the junkyard I'm going to try and grab a set of belts from a truck and a set from a Bronco. That way I can compare the length and maybe unwind them if say the bronco is longer. I'm still mulling all this around. Maybe the belts in an Econoline are longer, I'll have to check them out too. First, the part number prefix of E4TZ decodes this way: E = the decade of the 1980's 4 adds to the decade, so 1984 T = Truck Z = Replacement part So no, the difference is not due to the belts being red. If you look in the table there's a letter, and that represents the color. So E6TZ 18611A72-D is a black belt for a Supercab with captain's chairs. And a star means they are no longer available - in Ford stock, although there may still be floating around out there. As for length, the belts for a Bronco with captain's chairs should be the same length since the floor pan and B-pillars are the same.

Cool! Can't wait to hear the new system.

And, if your daughter thought you wanted it, she would get it for her dad! Yes, probably.

That's an interesting shift ball. Don't believe I've ever seen one like that. But if my daughter thought I needed it I'd probably install it.

Good point. And for the record, I have an H-pipe on Big Blue.

I wasn't aware of the new Flowmasters until you mentioned them today so obviously can't give you any input on your question. But with the money you have in your truck I think I'd go with what you know gives the sound you want - Magnaflows. And, by the way, those Magnaflows on the truck in the video are probably shorter than the ones on Big Blue. I say that because the sound is different. Sharper. Not better or worse, just different. But both that truck and Big Blue sound good.

Not bad at all. Looks very solid.

I actually have some plastic that is very clear. I've played with it a bit and it looks like it'll work well, but I plan to get the truck out tomorrow and put it next to the lens and see what the resulting image looks like. I think it'll work well and will let me have the cover ready for the trip we are taking late next week. However, I don't want to spend a lot of time as I asked Melissa today what the status is on a waterproof front camera and she said "I'm pushing engineer with the front waterproof, but recently the test is failed, so they are continue to work on, we're very careful & do many many tests before starting to sell, as we cannot afford big returns..." In other words, they could come out with the right camera at any time, and I don't want to put a lot of effort into getting this one "right".

This one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/233614141302 I've been getting a lot of parts on eBay lately. I just use the "Fits your Vehicle" search and buy whatever looks closest to what's on the truck. So far it seems to work OK with some caveats. First, you have to pay close attention to shipping because lots of parts are free but a few are just crazy, stuff like small $5 parts costing $15 to ship. But also I've noticed vendors don't always do a great job listing parts in the right categories. This was the right part number but it's only listed as fitting the Bronco. But it fit fine in mine. The same part is on Amazon for $70 which I thought was crazy, so I just searched for the same part number. It seems to work about 70% of the time. It was warm today and will be cold for the next week so I played a little hooky from work and got a ton of stuff done: 1. Windshield trim (mostly) reinstalled. Had trouble with two clips and couldn't find my trim-removal-tool to bend them the right way so I paused there. But it's close. 2. Antenna reinstalled on cowl. I THINK I screwed something up when removing this, the plug was very difficult to pull out of the bottom of the antenna and it looked like a raw-crimped connection, with shield braid kind of hanging out. But I couldn't find a replacement part for this and don't really listen to the radio that much anyway so I just pushed it back in and it seemed to seat OK. We'll see if it works at all. :) 3. Step bars installed. I went with the Westin kit and they look good, but I do wish the "step" portion extended about 6" further back but hey, better than nothing. The parts kit was super confusing, there were lots of unlabeled bolts with the same length and very close but NOT identical threads. It took some trial and error to figure out what went where. But it was definitely a no-drill installation. Not that that matters that much because... 4. Started installing the Torklift camper tie-downs. The old camper setup was tied right to the body panels via hooks bolted on there. I HATE that idea but also wanted something low-key for those times the camper wasn't in. The Torklift rang my bell here. This unfortunately IS a "drill the frame" type of installation and UPS rolled up with some of the above stuff as I was starting this, so I got distracted and didn't finish. :) 5. Transmission oil arrived. This time I got the right stuff, VP Classic 80W-90 GL-4 "for yellow metals". You can see below the old oil was black as night and there was definitely not 7 pints in there - more like 5. I found this task pretty stressful. I bought one of those "Slippery Pete" quart bottle pumps and definitely recommend any other product you can find. Just as the reviews say, the hose is too short and so is the pump stroke. But anyway I got the transmission refilled and closed up. 6. Painted the armrests. Since the "saddle" color isn't available anywhere, and apparently hasn't been for months, I bought the black ones from LMC. I actually did this a month ago and tried to paint them with the same paint I'd used on the dash - THAT was a mistake. It flaked off immediately. So I scrubbed all that off and this time I tried LMC's "adhesion promoter" and the saddle paint they sell from Coverlay just for this purpose. So far it seems to be adhering better though I haven't really rubbed on it yet (I'm giving it time to cure). 7. Got the radio bezel re-stickered. You may remember I'd done one already but I accidentally had the panel laser-cut not quite identically left-to-right - two slots have about a millimeter of offset. Also when I applied the sticker the first time I had a ton of air bubbles I couldn't get out. Well, it all worked out because I'd ordered five faceplates and ten stickers for experimentation (and to meet minimum order amounts) so I did another today from the correct side and with a spritz of water like they do for window tinting. Personally I think it looks great. Bear in mind this is still the prototype. I realized too late that I should have made the lettering white instead of clear, for example. But it looks so much better than the old cracked and scratched/faded one I had before. Really, the pic doesn't do it justice. 8. I need a new radiator. I had just enough time to replace my petcock but discovered I'd bought the wrong one (bought 1/4 NPT instead of 1/8 NPT as needed). But that's OK anyway because when I cleaned the whole area to prepare for the task I realized the leak is coming from the petcock weldment, not the petcock itself. So I guess I have to add a task to my board to replace that. Advice from the crowd on radiators? I have a lot of confidence in "performing" the task but can't make up my mind which actual radiator to BUY. In another thread (on this forum I believe) the Champion was recommended (https://www.championradiators.com/Ford-F-series-truck-radiator-1980-1984) but it's out of stock. Summit and Jegs both have options, and I could get both OEM and aftermarket options from Advance Auto Parts as well. What's the latest opinion on an "ideal" (but drop-in, no modifications needed) radiator for this early-80's era? Glad the cowl seal worked for you. Thought you might have used the one at Documentation/Underhood/Cowl Seal. Sounds like you have a whole bunch going all at the same time. But you are making progress. On the radiator, I went with a 4-row Champion and like it. However, it came with a horrible petcock that both leaked and dribbled all over everything when you tried to drain it. I replaced it with this one from Amazon on a recommendation from Scott.

Next few weeks hopefully. I went by and looked it over real good today. The mechanic who currently owns it is gonna put it up to his shop, drop the tranny, and have his guy rebuild it for me. Timing of getting it is just how fast they can get that done. I told him today I'll bring him cash, as I understand he's not going to touch it until he knows its sold. I plan to take him a deposit in the next few days. We've got a good relationship so that should be enough to get the ball rolling. I was quite happy when I looked it over closer today to see that it's an XLT and had factory AC (even has cruise control on the steering wheel). The seat is just starting to crack on the drivers seat, and the pedals show very little wear, so I'm thinking it doesn't have a ton of miles. Odometer reads 41k, and I'm guessing it just rolled the one time. Looked up under it and the bed looks solid (I'll be removing the liner once I get it home). I'll need to replace the tailgate, it has pretty bad rust through at the bottom. Haven't been able to get it to open as the handle is frozen stuck. I applied a nice liberal amount of PB Blaster to it to see if it'll unstick. Insurance papers I found in the glovebox are from 2005...yeah it's been sitting a while. You will probably find several issues once you start driving it. But they are things you can work through.

Interesting. I wouldn't have thought of twisting the cover. Cool! What hood seal did you use? And I'm anxious to see the winch mounted. If I didn't have the Warn bumper...

When are you getting it?

Looks like some nice guy found one, two years ago, and others commented about it here.

I don't remember, but that one fits: 80/81 F100/350, U150 4 exc. O/D E0TZ 7213-B Warner & New Process-threaded