Gary Lewis

Bill - Thanks for your honest answer. I agree - I don't see a need for the adjustable FPR and I just ordered the Motorcraft F4SZ 9C968-A regulator. And that's a cool story. You have quite the connection with Shelby. Bet you loved the movie - I sure did! Now, for my good news. I've been beating my head against the proverbial wall 'cause I couldn't figure out the wiring to the O2 sensors and, as the Brits say, I finally twigged - there was a connector missing in the diagram in the EVTM! As shown below, the circuit #'s & wire colors highlighted in green are the connections from the three O2 sensors to the ECU. I've traced them with my DVM and have tagged them with my label maker, so I know where they are and where they go. But right above them is C110 - which I've added to the drawing. Yep, save for the two connections in the upper left of the drawing C110 was completely missing. But I could see the female side of it there in the harness, so I was really confused. As it turns out, I have the male side from Huck and it is fully populated. And while the colors aren't right and there are no O2 connectors, I have the start of a harness. So if I can find the right O2 connectors I think I can make it happen.

I've never seen it either, and can't find in the Light Trucks MPC. But the part number looks like it should be a heavy truck part as our covers are 1002108-A. Yep: 80/ F600/800 - - w/o A/C E0TZ 6002108-A R.H. 83/ FT800/900 - - w/o A/C

Bill - I'm not sure how to take your "Yes" since it was part of a longer sentence that mentioned calling Core Tuning. Was that your answer to my question of "Do you see any reason not to go with" the non-adjustable regulator? I was asking you, specifically. But I will contact both Core Tuning as well as Aeromotive. I'll email CT, probably while watching the Chief's game this afternoon. May call as well. And with Aeromotive the question is what is the difference between those two regulators, other than price? I'm sure they won't be there until tomorrow, but I'll try them this afternoon and send them an email if not.

Welcome! Glad you joined. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can add you with a city/state or zip. On the "stroked 351M" (see my signature), you should have worlds of power. The 1/2" of extra stroke and the higher compression ratio, depending on which of Tim's pistons you got, should give you a bunch more than stock. But did you change out the timing chain to an aftermarket one that is "straight up"? The stock timing chains retard the cam badly, killing power. But a friend that put a straight-up chain and a 4bbl on his otherwise stock 400 said it doubled the power. You should start a thread in either the main section or in Projects so we can follow along. More people will see it there than here.

Yes, you want the vacuum gauge connected to manifold vacuum. Some port that has full vacuum all the time.

Yep, I thought that was the one. Back to the fuel pressure regulator. I found the Motorcraft CM4760 in stock for $60. As I'm not trying to build a hotrod and want something that can be easily maintained, do you see any reason not to go with that one?

20 1/2" is pretty good for any engine, but a lot of that depends on the idle RPM. IOW, you can get the vacuum right on up there by running the engine faster. But if you have it idling normally then you might get it to 21". Having said that, I have three vacuum gauges and they all read differently. So the key is to turn the screws out & in until you find the highest vacuum, and then richen it up just a bit more.

It is looking very good, but I see your dilemma on the fuel line routing. I think I'd put the gauge down on the frame to make it easy, or put it in the run ahead of the distributor. But given the options you mentioned I'll bet you will get it worked out to put it up above. As for the air cleaner, the larger HO unit is thinner than the smaller aluminum unit. On Big Blue even with a 1" spacer between the carb and that cleaner, and on top of the tall 460, it still fits under the overhang on the cowl. You do have to snake it in there, but it fits.

Yes, I have the '96 EVTM, both in two different paper books and several of the sections scanned in. Was using both book and online today. This C101?

I don't need Big Blue to be terribly fast. I want him to be rock solid and as economical as a 460 can be. (I know, "460" and "economical" shouldn't be used in the same sentence. ) I'm leaning to going with a Motorcraft CM4760, which is half the price of the Aeromotive. And while it wouldn't be here until February 21 - March 4, that would be ok with me as I won't have the wiring sorted by then. Speaking of the wiring, there are 62 wires in the bundle 'twixt the underhood wiring and the ECU - all of which have been cut. I think I'll only need ~50 wires, and today I figured out two of them. So I'm 4% there! Boy, this is going to be a pain! I think I'm going to extend the wires using just one color of wire - like black. It'll still have the proper wire color on each end though, so shouldn't be a problem. And I plan to go with the later speed control unit, which has its own internal electronics, so the ECU can go where the speed control module currently is. I have one of the later speed controls, but the throttle cable on it isn't good, so I'll need to replace the speed control or the cable itself.

Good question. I think I'd use carpet or upholstery cleaner in small shots.

Ok, I think I understand: At idle and cruise it doesn't matter about the fuel pressure as the system is in closed-loop and the computer will dial the pulse width in to meet the set point regardless of pressue. At WOT, or any time the manifold vacuum is very low 'cause the throttle is very open, the higher pressure helps as the computer is guessing at how long to pulse the injectors. And the constant pressure in the regulator due to the feedback of the vacuum helps the computer with its guess. And that's what you dial in using the AFR meter, not the cruise AFR. Is that about right? If so, are you saying I should go with the adjustable FPR? Did you? Will you?

At the risk of having y'all miss the issue of finding the right MAF sensor missed, I do want to discuss the fuel pressure regulator. And at the bottom of this post is a question I need help with. Scotty said I should get an "Adjustable PFR by aeromotive order for same year mustang as your EFI engines fuel rail is." So I went to the Aeromotive site and realized I have no clue what Mustang uses the fuel rail I'm using. I'm not even sure what engine that rail came off of as I have two rails - the one from Huck, the 1990 F250, and the one from the '95 F450. One takes a 3-screw regulator but the one I went with takes a 2-screw regulator, I believe that one is from the '95 truck. Aeromotive appears to have two 2-bolt regulators intended to mount on Ford fuel rails: Platinum Series P/N 13152: $161 P/N 13102 Ford Rail Mount EFI Adjustable FPR: $200 Both of these regulators have vacuum/pressure fittings that, presumably, would connect to the intake manifold and cause the pressure to change with the manifold pressure. And the instructions for both of these regulators include this step. So my question is why would I want an adjustable fuel pressure regulator? Scotty said I should adjust the pressure to between 42 and 46 psi, and the Aeromotive instructions say the factory setting is usually 43. And Scotty says I should tune that setting using a wideband AFR meter. Why? Won't the EFI system adjust the AFR to match whatever set point I program it to, regardless of fuel pressure? Why wouldn't I use a stock regulator ($30 - $55) and let the computer dial the AFR in?

Ok, got a tiny bit done and lots of things on order today. But first, I am NOT finding the MAF sensor, F5OF 12B579-AA. That's the one that was on the CA-spec system, and its the one Bill shows as stock. What I'm finding is shown on the Rock Auto site here. So, I'm looking for suggestions? Leads? Alternatives? As for what I got done, not much on the labeling of connectors. What I did find is that I have the harness that goes down to the O2 sensor after the cat, which I'm not going to use. But I don't appear to have the harness to go to the #11 (upstream right) & #21 (upstream left) O2 sensors. Which is a bummer as I guess I'm going to have to find the right connectors and make my own harnii. Anyone know where to get the connectors? I found the Bosch O2 sensors on the RA site based on this post earlier in this thread. And I thought that maybe by finding them I'd also find the connectors. But neither Amazon, where I ordered the sensors, nor RA list the connectors. And, speaking of Amazon, they say that the Bosch 15716 sensors is the correct one for upstream right, but the Bosch 15717 doesn't fit my truck - although RA specifically says it is the correct one. I hope RA is right. So today I ordered the engine coolant temp sensor (Motorcraft), the two O2 sensors (Bosch), the intake air temp sensor (ZBN as I couldn't find Motorcraft), the throttle position sensor (Motorcraft), the idle air control (Motorcraft), and air filter (Wix). So save for the MAF sensor, I think everything is on order. But I got bored beating my head against the harnii, and when I ran into the CCD ignition modules and realized they were both corroded I had to see what I could do. So I fired up the compressor, put a connector on the worst of the two to protect the terminals, and cleaned it up a bit. Here's a before and after:

I have a lot of the 1995 EVTM on the site, but I have the paper version on the work table in front of me as I sort out the wiring on the EFI for Big Blue.

You are now on the map. As for a manual, I really like the Ford factory shop manuals. They are very accurate. However, we have many of the sections from the FSMs on the site. So you may not need to buy a set. Your call.

I think the key statement in that other thread is "The two pumps are just spec'd at different pressures and we don't know what the CII would do at 620 psi nor the Sag at 740 psi." But both pumps have their min and max relief pressures set very close to each other, with the CII at 1400 to 1530, and the Sag at 1350 - 1450. So yes, I think it is a coinkydink.

Nice price @$60, but $20 seems expensive for shipping. Still, if you want one...

Welcome, Brock! Glad you joined. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and can add you with a city/state or zip. On the carb, you don't really have a choice of a 2bbl on the 300 if you are running the stock intake manifold. Or unless you bolt on a 1-to-2bbl adapter. So I suggest just going with the 1bbl. This subject has been discussed a lot on here, and you might enjoy reading this thread: Advice on Carb + Intake Swap for 300 Straight Six. In that Cory said he'd just put a $69 replacement from Amazon on his truck. I don't have a link to that carb, but the model is YF and you can probably find it. There are other threads on here about the cheap Chinese carb and most have been positive. However, they aren't perfect. On the other hand, they are cheap. However, we need to make sure that you have the non-feedback carb before getting much farther. If you have a feedback carb then must replace it with a feedback carb. So show us a pic of your distributor? We can tell from that if you have the feedback system or not.

Gary, They actually drill and tap the steering box casing and add two additional ports if you have or plan to run ram assist steering. Here's some info on it here: https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threads/power-steering-gear-box-tap-pics.254874/ Nothing you need on a regular pickup in my opinion. That's very helpful, Cory. And I agree it isn't something I need on my trucks. Doing a bit of sleuthing, here's what Redhead says about their process: And here's what Blue Top says about their company: Since Redhead is in Auburn, WA and that's a suburb of Seattle it is pretty easy to see that Ryan had been an employee of Redhead. But with his father owning Blue Top he decided to jump ship. No idea when he did that nor are we told why, but he eventually bought the business from his father and has expanded it.

You don't want that option. That is for adding two more ports in the steering box casing if you were using a secondary steering ram/piston assist. Nothing you need on a truck like yours. RedHead has a description of the option on their webpage. Thanks, Cory. One place I read said that Red Head put the fittings exactly in the right place to rub on the radiator hose and the guy was sure they'd rub through the hose in short order. Don't remember what vehicle it was on, but it wasn't a Bullnose so might not be an issue for ours. Still, I don't see the need. Also, look what else I spotted on their site here:

Here's what the porting option popup says. I think it means you have to change hoses.

I saw that on FB. It is U.G.L.Y! That quarter shot is particularly bad. Something is terribly incongruent.

I agree. I went through two reman'd boxes in a row before switching over to a RedHead box on my '84. As NumberDummy used to say over on FTE, a remanufactured power steering box is a resealed power steering box. So, if you're buying one to replace a leaky box, then a reman is fine. If you're buying one to fix sloppy steering, then your results may vary. I went with a reman steering box on my 1980, and it seemed to be pretty good. That one didn't bother me at all. One of the older parts counter guys I talked to told me that buying reman steering boxes is hit or miss because you don't really know if that reman box has 50k miles on it, or 350k miles on it. He actually told me, "sometimes you have to go through a couple before you get a good one". A note on both RedHead and BlueTop boxes is that they have sales, I know around Thanksgiving and Christmas for sure, and maybe July 4th...can't really remember. Follow them on FB and IG and they will announce them when they're on. I was going to go with the BlueTop box for no other reason than Geography...they were closer and shipping was slightly cheaper. However, they went through two sales and both times didn't have any stock on Bullnose steering boxes. RedHead being a bigger and older company always seemed to have them ready to go. John - If the need for sending them a core before they send you one back is a problem come see me.