Gary Lewis

Ray - I'm not having problems with Page 3, but if others are then maybe we need to find out why. Steve - Thanks, but one of the reasons I'm going with Ford's EEC-V system instead of an aftermarket system is that the aftermarket manufacturers drop products readily. So, while that pump would work now, I'm doubting it would be available later - when it fails. I'm trying to build something that my offspring can maintain for decades, and I don't think aftermarket products are compatible with that goal. Again, thanks.

And what about it???? Maybe I should paint the 450 block blue? But I think it would look out of place in my truck. Gray just seems ..... bland. I realize it is "correct", but it doesn't do much for me. I think Big Blue's block is black, and I'll probably paint or powder coat the pan black as well. But, to each his own. It'll run the same.

I'll add the F0 number, and suggest the foam rubber. Thanks.

Today I added a page and upgraded another: Fuel Systems/Fuel System Wiring: I am working on fuel system wiring diagrams so I can rewire Big Blue, and I needed a place to stash them. Voila, a new page. But, it isn't done. Bill has suggested that I add some others, and in truth there are others beyond his suggestions that should be added. So, I opened a can of worms. Or, created a big "opportunity", depending on your point of view. Electrical/Windshield Wipers: This page has been in place for some time, but it lacked the how-to-upgrade bit. And, today Jim said something about shock and the delay module, repair, et al. So I decided that we needed a how-to on fixing the module, so took some pics and wrote it up. All because Jim mentioned it and had explained how to do it in a previous life.

I missed/forgot it. So, glad you caught it.

Jim - I took your word for the attribution, took more pics, and wrote up the missing how-to-upgrade as well as how-to-repair verbiage. Please see what you think: Electrical/Windshield Wipers and the Upgrade and Fix tabs.

I have links to the catalog under Electrical/Wiring Connectors.

While I would like to have those things re-drawn, I don't think I can spare the time. But, I could add the pages for those items. Lemme see what I can do. And thank you. Also, you might want to check your email.

Ford gray????? Yeah, that may be "factory", but..... Anyway, you are making good progress. Glad to see it, as that's been a long time coming. Oh yes, on the cleaning bit, use your compressed air to blow out every single hole - but wear eye protection!

Steve - Thrilled to be able to help you. As for meeting, be in Skiatook on September 15th. That'll be the 2nd annual Garagemahal All-Ford Truck Show & Swap Meet. Last year we had Bill/NumberDummy from CA, Jonathan/Ford F834 from AZ, Chris/ctubutis from CO, Eli/Smokenchoken from KS, David/1986F150Six from AL, Brandon/Bruno2 from OK, as well as several others whose names I'm forgetting. This year I expect most of those will be back, plus lots of others who have said they'll come, including Ken Blythen from New Zealand and Daren/Oz Econoline/F100 from Australia. So, to borrow from the commercials we heard back in the 60's, BE THERE!

And, for your viewing pleasure (really so I could find them) I added a page to the website to house these diagrams: Fuel Systems/Fuel System Wiring. I included the relevant EVTM pages as well as a way to "download" my schematics - but it really just opens them in a new window in your browser. However, in my case it brings it up close and personal, so is much easier to see. Now to figure out what needs to change in the wiring to incorporate the '96 stuff into Big Blue.......

I hope you aren't in a hurry. I'm probably many months from tearing Big Blue down to actually start the reformation. But there are many details that have to be worked out, so I'm doing that now in order to minimize the down time.

It is fine to have two cables, one from the battery to the engine and one from the engine to the frame, and connect them at the engine. I suspect that Ford used the one-piece cable to ease installation rather than because it works better - although there is one less "connection" that way so it should work good longer. But you can test your grounds pretty easily with the voltage-drop test.

Ok, as promised, here are my versions of the 1985.5-86 and 1996, and probably later, fuel system wiring diagrams. They don't, yet, have the wire colors and other information, but I hope you can see the complexity of the 1985.5-86 system and the simplicity of the 1996 system. (EDIT: They now have the wire colors and pinouts.) And, by the way, I put them up on a hidden test page on the website to see how easy they would be to read there. Please take a look at let me know how easy they are to read for you there. And, if you spot any errors or areas for improvement, PLEASE let me know. These need to be spot-on accurate so I (we?) can use them for wiring. Also, from this you can see what I was saying about the tank selector switch powering the pumps directly in the 1996 version, but doing so via a relay in the 1985.5-86 version.

I'm sorry, but I got lost. It seemed like you were asking me if I want the dashpot from the VV, and the answer is "yes" if you don't need it. But then you seemed to shift to wiring up the solenoid on the 2150. Are you thinking of swapping the dashpot where the solenoid is? Those were used for two different reasons, as explained on my 2150 page under the External Systems tab. They were "throttle positioners", but the vacuum one was for a different purpose than the electric one. The one on that 2150 was a "throttle kicker" that raised the throttle slightly to provide the idle speed, and then completely closed the throttle when the ignition was shut off to ensure the engine didn't "diesel". All of that is shown on Page 19 and discussed on Page 27 in the Start, Ignition, Carb Circuit section of the 1981 EVTM. I don't think you'll need either of them, and certainly not the vacuum one. And I suggest that you drive the truck before you worry about the electric one. Dad never had it hooked up.

Glad you guys like the forum. That was the intent - small but helpful. And we don't allow cussing! As for swapping parts, I'm thrilled to get the VV as I haven't seen one of them in decades. And it'll be a neat addition to my collection.

I have a page on grounds here: Electrical/Ground Wires. I tried to pull together what two of my EVTM's say about grounds. Hope that helps. But yes, the negative battery cable goes to the engine and then to the frame.

You simply cannot use a DVM on the resistance scale to check grounds on a vehicle. It will not work. At all. The current supplied by the DVM isn't even the same league as the current pulled by the components in your truck, much less that of the starter. And the resistance of the connection will change dramatically as the current flow goes up. The only way to test grounds is the voltage drop test.

While that module probably could be made to fit, and might provide the right pressure, your gauge wouldn't work. When your tank was full the gauge would read below Empty, and when your tank was empty the gauge would read about 1/2 tank.

Ray - Let me get the schematic done and posted and then I think we will find we are in complete agreement. Right now the drawings are done for both versions, but the 85.5-6 is so poorly laid out that you can't make heads or tails of it. But I will work on it as soon as I finish this second cup of Joe.

Well, I didn't find the bulletin or TSB, but I found something better: How To Fix Your Wiper Governor. Well done, Jim! But, would you mind if I used your pics and created a page on our website? We already have a page on Windshield Wipers, but there's nothing on it. So I could explain how the delay is a plug & play upgrade, but what the hazard is and how to fix it. And, I'll give you credit.

In my many years long quest to find NOS and rare used pieces for our trucks, I have run across 1 set. Well, if you do again you know who wants one.

Bill is right - I'm chest-deep in sorting through this, and you can follow along on my EFI For Big Blue thread. Here are some of my observations todate: 85.5/86: At first blush this appears to be the way to add EFI to a Bullnose truck as the sending units will work with the gauges - as Bill explained. However, after looking at the availability of parts I quickly realized this won't work as the needed reservoir/switching valve (F1TZ 9B263-B) is really not available. And, it is known to fail - frequently. 1990 - 93?: This one uses the fuel delivery modules of which Bill wrote, and they are available. No reservoir/switching valve. No frame-mounted high pressure pump. Etc. And far, FAR more simple wiring. However, if you already have the complex wiring with all the parts then you'd have to change. And, the problem of the sending unit resistance - see below. Gauge Interface: If we are to update our fuel systems we need a way to interface the new sending units with our old gauges. The Bullnose sending units give 10 ohms when Full and 73 ohms when Empty, but the later sending units give 145 ohms Full and 22.5 ohms Empty. My current plan is to write a program for an Arduino to read the resistance of the new sender and then provide the right current to the old gauge via pulse-width modulation. The hardware is quite easy, and inexpensive, and the coding will be simple. In fact, my nephew has written lots of code for Arduinos and will be happy to help me should there be a problem. And, when this is done it will be thoroughly written up here on the site with part numbers, code, etc so others can follow my lead.

That would be a good bulletin to have.

Good shot!