Gary Lewis

That's for sure. There's a finite end to each tube, and the wave created when a pulse comes out of one tube goes back up the other three - on a V8 using equal-length headers. But, if we put a crossover in downstream of the collector does that cause another set of waves that add at some RPM's and subtract at others?

I'd always heard/read that X is better than H, but it that probably was due to being able to use both muffler/tailpipe systems for each cylinder. However, if you are looking for scavenging, maybe H is better?

I see what you are saying. So, an H is better than an X?

I forgot to comment on the phone and the Bell sign. I was jealous of the sign when you showed it to me while you and Bill were here. It sure looks good there. And, now that you may have a place to display it, if you want the 'scope back that's no problem. It would look good as well.

I'm glad to see that. I won't be surprised if it ends between $8K and $10K.

Amen to what Jim said. And, X crossovers are more effective than H's since the gas doesn't have to make a right-angle in its travel to go across to the other side.

I do not use the rubber piece on the dam at either end of the valley. Instead I use a 1/4" bead of RTV all the way across. And too much is ok, while not enough is bad. But, regardless of what you use there, you need to ensure that the manifold goes down evenly and that you don't slide it around any when it goes down. So I have taken 4 long bolts that screw in the holes in the block and cut the heads off. That lets you slide the manifold down into place and ensures it isn't forward or backward, which causes you to have to slide it - which knocks the seals off and moves the gaskets. Even then, you need to watch and make sure that the manifold is going down level - assuming your engine is sitting level. If it is angled too much to one side or the other you may not get it to pull down evenly. Don't ask and Brandon/Bruno2 won't tell. Also, don't torque the bolts down immediately. Snug them down, which causes the RTV to be pushed against all parts of the block and intake, but wait several hours, and maybe over night, to torque them down the last little bit. That way the RTV sets up and when you do tighten down the last little bit the RTV is in compression. Last, cleanliness is paramount. RTV won't stick to oily surfaces, and you want it to stick.

Chris - It is all coming together! Looking good. On the winch mount, I would set up a plate with holes for the 4 bolts and weld a cut-off draw bar to the bottom. The bolts keep the plate from coming up off the floor, and the draw bar, which is set in the 4" or more of concrete, won't allow the plate to move laterally. We talked about lighting, but to remind you, look for lighting with a high Color Rendering Index - CRI. Something with at least a .8 or 80% rating. And, place some lights near the wall on the ceiling so it'll reflect off the wall and then off the floor to go under a vehicle. Plus, those lights set to the side will also not be blocked by someone working in an engine compartment, so light gets to the engine.

Welcome. But, if it is that exact part number it should have two ports - as shown. There are others, that I didn't include, with different part numbers that don't have two ports.

I'm tempted to say "Yes, they did." But then you'd ask what it is, so..... But, it looks like finding one new may be difficult.

Cool! You'll have quite the Bullnose industry going. Can you also indicate where the tubes go?

You can use standard plumbing tees to run two sending units. But, some of the earlier trucks had both a gauge sending unit and one for the computer, and they had an extension that had an opening for each sending unit.

The sensor I have provides both an electrical signal as as well as a place to connect a traditional speedo cable. If you had one of those you could probably use your existing cable.

I asked Bill/NumberDummy for help on the 1A457 question, and he said it appears to only be for the 6' 9" bed. (And, I asked him to join us here.)

Skiatook's not that far.

Didn't realize there was an adapter offered. But, that boggles my mind. The EEC-V I'm looking at expects there to be a power distribution center with included relays, like for the fuel pump. But none of the Bullnose trucks had a PDC, so..... Anyway, on this to-be page I'm hoping we can capture why one would want/need to use other resources, like Core Tuning, how to do that, and how to engage them. In other words, to explain the scope of a project and what part various sources play. (That was really a mystery to me for quite a while, and I'm still not sure I understand.)

Randy - I may have the spare tire carrier. I will look tomorrow. The shipping would be a lot less than from Canada. In fact, you could come up and get it. Or, we might meet somewhere some day - I'm sitting in the Barnes & Noble on 71st Street, so do get to T-town ever other week or so. But, I don't have an extra tach, so I'll leave that to Ray or someone else.

I will check tomorrow, but if you don't hear (see?) from me by Saturday please rattle my cage. (I think my memory used to be better, but I don't remember. )

Ray and Bill - What do you think of me moving some of this conversation to a new thread I started called Computerized Fuel System Documentation Musings? That way we can clean up this thread.

I'd like to create a web page that documents the various computer systems Ford used on these trucks as well as trucks up into the late 90's so people have an understanding of what is available if they want to upgrade. My thinking is to have an overview of what was used, what the differences are, etc. And, that would include pinouts for the various signals, which systems to choose, and so on. And then, as some of us work through specifics for our trucks, to include that info as well. What system we chose, why, how we wired it, how we "programmed" it, and so on. Thoughts? Suggestions? Caveats?

All of that is what I am envisioning. I've struggled with getting my head around all of this and I'm not close yet. And while I'm not very "quick", I don't think it is intuitively obvious to the casual observer. So, if we can create a page, or pages, with a story that explains how all of this transpired, what advantages there are to the changes, what to look for if you want "this", etc then I think it'll help a lot of people.

I'm envisioning a page on the website that explains the progression of Ford's electronic fuel system control as it relates to the pickups. It would include a spreadsheet or spreadsheets that show pinouts and what each circuit does, when new circuits appeared and their functionality, etc. Yes, I realize that the scope of the Garagemahal is Bullnose trucks. However, some (many?) of us want to upgrade our trucks to later technology in order to make them easier to maintain, more fuel efficient, more powerful, easier to drive, etc. So the scope of this page wouldn't be limited to the Bullnose era. Instead it would go into the future to at least '96 when almost everything went EEC-V/OBD-II. And, as we develop info on what pins/circuits/functions are needed for certain applications we would include that. In fact, I've sorta done that for adapting a '96 EEC-V system into Big Blue, so this page would include that info. Thoughts?

Yes, those are "shorties". In headers you want thick flanges so they won't warp and cause leaks. My L&L's have 1/2" thick flanges, and in the year I've had the truck there's been no leaks. Back on the mufflers, I plan to use a 2-in/2-out Magnaflow. Probably something like the one below. But Bill's idea of placing the mufflers offset would allow using bigger mufflers and still keep them close.

Weed? 😳 I guess maybe he's saying he won't trade for Mary Jane?