Gary Lewis

That is the easy part what has me maybe not wanting to do the 3G swap if in a hurry is the need to bypass the AMP gauge. I think I am pretty good with wiring, wired up my drag car from scratch, but this little part I just cant wrap my head around for some reason Maybe a video step by step is what I need Dave ---- Steve has pointed out, and rightly so, that it is not necessary to take the ammeter out of the circuit - as long as you put the output wire of the 3G to the battery or battery-side of the relay and you don't try to put a large new/extra load on the fuse box. The downside is that the ammeter will always show a discharge, and the more accessories you have on the more discharge. Anyway, wire it as shown below, but ignore the regulator as that's a 1G diagram.

Good to know, Steve. Thanks. I'd always expected it to be there somewhere as it didn't make sense for Ford to have two different harnesses. But had never found out for sure.

Base trucks only got the switch on the driver's side. The passenger's switch was added in higher levels. But I don't know if the wire is back there. Would make sense, but I don't know.

Delco - I hope to look tomorrow to see what I have. If you don't get a reply from my by noon, please remind me.

Ron - You did install the cam as directed, with the dots aligned? Jim - You may have something. A pump delivering too little fuel can cause problems similar to this.

Have you tried adjusting the carb's idle mix? It is remotely possible that with the retarded cam timing the mix needed to be different. Then, if that doesn't help, do you have a piston stop? I'd check TDC to see if the damper is correct. If it likes to idle at 20 BTDC that is unusual to me. But, if it likes to idle there try driving it.

Exactly what I am debating... I did not do it with the Espy, but I am actually pretty reliant on Eunice so I may have to. I am away for work again from Sunday so I have some time to think about it! I am torn between a total lack of time and just replace the 1G so I have a running truck, or somehow make more time and do the 3G.... When I had that choice to make on Big Blue I installed the 1G out of Dad's truck, bearing noise and all, and have driven it three years with no problems. But, in the Transformation it'll get a 3G.

More specifically, the diode bridge in the alternator is toast. And that allows it to drain the battery. Time for a 3G upgrade?

If you move the pin then you need to consider where the link will hit if you put a flat plate on.

Should be that switch. But is it coming fully out? Or is it stuck in? Work with a bit to see if it'll free up. And if you have contact cleaner shoot it with some. If you don't have contact cleaner WD40 will work. (I just texted the same info to Bruno but said WD50 by accident. He said he had WD30 but would shoot it twice. )

The wiring is shown below. But there's not much to it. If the relay clicks and you don't have power to the horns then the relay is probably bad. Put a test light on the wire going to the horns and see if it lights when the horn button is pushed.

I had this recently on Big Blue. Turned out the horn was bad. The relay is what is clicking, and it then sends power to the horn. I tested the horn by placing jumper wires on it and hooking it directly to the battery. In my case it did nothing. So I grabbed another and got a timid beep. Sprayed contact cleaner into the horn, held upside down so it would run in, and finally got it working sorta. I turned to the other one, but the contact cleaner didn't help. Then I accidentally dropped it and it started working.

Haha! Ya know, Dr. Phil talked one time about people that are always late...lol. According to him, if you're a person that is always late, then you like being late. People often have an excuse for being late, but if it was unintentional, then of course every now and then person would be early, right??...lol. I get the punctuality thing though, and my wife is exactly the same. I like being early, and she likes planning things so that she arrives exactly at the required time, or shortly afterwards...lol. We sometimes both leave work to meet at an appointment, and if its at 2:00 pm, I'll arrive at 1:40, and she'll arrive at 2:05, every single time! My opinion is that people who are habitually late are selfish and don't have respect for others. Just my opinion.

Boom, you are literally ON THE MAP! Retired! Several of us are, and the others are jealous. Frustration? YES! It happens and then it is time to walk away for a bit. Good plan, Stan. You should start a new thread in the main section about your project. And then tell us what issue you want to work on first.

Hope her car started.

Welcome, David! Glad you joined. Where's home? I ask because we have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to put you on. And, you might find that you are near one of us that could help. As for your truck, is it the '87 Bronco II with a '97 engine & EFI that you are struggling with? Just want to make sure. If so, we might be able to help. Some of us have the 1987 EVTM and some have the '96 EVTM. So, assuming that the wiring didn't change 'tween '96 and '97 we might be able to help. Or, we can lend our suggestions in any event.

Reminds me of two things. First, my grandtwins' other grandfather texted me the other day as the Subie's battery was dead. What could it be. My answer: Your grandkids have not met a button they did not push, and they FREQUENTLY play with the dome light switches. He texted back "That was it." And, I'm working a text string in the background. Bruno has a dome light that's on dimly. What could it be? A door pin switch is stuck almost closed? Must be the season?

Yippee!!!!! As for timing, I agree with David.

A clicking start relay indicates that the battery is so low that the starter draw drops the voltage below the pull-in value for the relay. So it drops out and then comes back in as the draw goes away and the voltage comes back. I'd put checking the relay/solenoid on the back burner. I think the problem is one of: The battery has a shorted cell The alternator/regulator is bad and not charging Something is draining the battery. It could be the diode bridge is blown in the alternator and allowing current to flow in the "off" state. Or it might be something else that has failed. If you have a fully charged battery you can swap out and it'll probably run to get home. That'll allow you to check the alternator's output, both DC awa AC, although finding ripple on a charged battery may not be easy. And, you can test for parasitic draw.

Nice truck! But I wonder about the $15,900 price. And, is the "rare" statement due to its condition? Or? Anyway, it is interesting to see how it sits. It should have the same rear springs as Big Blue from what I remember, and the rear certainly looks like it is the same as BB. But the front is up due to the D60, and that makes the truck sit pretty much level - like it should.

While something with logic is a point of failure, it isn't being used in a place that will leave you stranded on the side of the road. Yes, you might not know how much fuel you have or what the oil pressure is, but that won't strand you. If I get the Arduino going for Big Blue, and that's certainly the plan, then we could easily build a twin and change the code to make your gauge work correctly. And with your Android you could plug in and tweak the code, add functions, etc.

Yup. Lots and lots of TIME! By your numbers, over 2/3's of the cost is labor. In fact, at 71% it is almost 3/4's. And that's at your cheap rate of $90/hour.

You might speak German: Jein. The angle will change where the linkage hits the pedal, but it won't change the lever arm. In other words, the move of the pin was to change the amount of mechanical advantage as well as the amount of travel. Jonathan previously said: And changing the angle of the booster does not address the mechanical advantage nor the amount of travel. Or, did I misunderstand? Are you planning to move the pin?

And, I forgot the Bullnose sender/Bricknose gauge issue. If this works for Bricknose sender/Bullnose gauge then a simple change of the code will do the reverse.

Depends on how you are counting and what probability of failure you give the widgets. In the fuel system, it is pretty obvious that Ford's Bullnose-era systems were fraught with problems. Otherwise they wouldn't have kept making changes. By ~1990 things had settled down and the systems were less prone to failure. But the sending units were, as you know, upside down and backwards to the Bullnose gauges. So, is adding a widget to translate a more stable fuel system to an older gauge more or less prone to failure? And, if you have that widget why not make use of it to provide other information?