ReneH

You're right, I've stroked the engine and used the original heads. But I've let plan the block and also the heads. I've replaced the original valve shaft seals with ones in this style: RockAuto I hope, you've talked about the valve shaft seals... We will see, what result the test will bring... I still think better heads will be a consequence, when changing to the EEC-V, E4OD and a Holley HI-RAM-Intake...maybe also the exhaust ports are better constructed like the ones on my 302 factory heads... I know, that I also may need new exhaust mainfolds... My aim is to get this car to a perfect dayli driver and also for driving into holidays. So as I get not more than about 1,000 miles per year, I'm hoping to construct a very, very, very durable vehicle, which I can drive for some decades without to have to dive again such deep inside the engine, as I have done by now. A bit more power and efficiency is something very welcome aside.

Yes, you are right. But as everyone knows how much time all this will cost, I'm searching by now to find something useful. As you may know, I've planned to change the heads from the beginning, but it's always a decision with the costs in sight. (This is maybe German-English...) I will locate where the oil has went, first. But as I also will change the intake mainfold, I need to know which one I need fitting to the heads. So that's the reason, why I'm searching so early for these heads.

So it seems very hard to get GT40 or GT40P heads in Germany, even as hard as to find a Ford explorer with V8 engine... I have found this at rockauto.com: GT40P heads Maybe they can tell me, when this part is available and what's the price for it. I have also found some heads at summit racing, but due to a missing description, I don't know what type of head they're offering... I'll perform the leakdown test maybe today, if I have enough time left...otherwise next weekend...

Today I've had a call with cardone tech support. They said, that this amount of play isn't "normal" and they can't tell me how it's possible that I've got two bad gearboxes... BUT: they're not responsible...I have to find a solution with rockauto.com, cause rockauto.com is not a direct customer of cardone... So, I'm as far as some weeks ago. I'll try now to get rockauto.com to refund me the money without sending back the gearbox or even without having to pay for it. Now I only need a core for BlueTop, that's already located in the USA. Maybe I'm able to find a defective device on ebay USA for a small amount to let the seller send it to BlueTop... Currently my CJ7 is only in my garage, cause it's not driveable... The fun-fact is, that also the steering gearbox, that I've bought for my Buggy has play... So it seems that I have no luck with steering gearboxes...only the BlueTop in my bronco works fine. Sure, there is also some play, but very, very slight...a borgeson shaft should eliminate this in the future.

Hi Gary, yes, it is! I will write to Cardone and RockAuto in copy to get my money back! I have paid 150 USD for sending back the last defective device. I will build up some pressure by telling them to post all facts in the common social media. I hope they will react about this!

Ok...today I've found the problem. It's definitely the gearbox. The replacement NEW box from cardone... As you can see in the following video, I've grabbed the steering shaft and turned it. The steering wheel turns, but the lever doesn't move. If I try to hold the input shaft to see, if the coupler is the problem, I can't move the shaft...so, this is not the problem... Maybe my only way is to buy a box from blue top...this is what I hoped not to have to do, cause of the costs, when not sending back a defective device... I will send cardone also this video...I'm exited, what they will answer...

Ok...thanks! So, I've checked the oil again today, as I'm back at home. I've driven 1895 miles and have refilled 1.9 liters in total...so the engine burns about 1 liter per 1000 miles... 50ml were in the catch can. If I remember correctly there were 40ml before, so 90ml in total for 1895 miles.

So, I've crawled inside the trunk and removed the cover...a slight tip with a hammer on the motor and it works! So I've closed the window and it goes down again...after 3 times, it stucks again in the closed position...never in the open position... But it works. So it seems, that I should overhaul the motor...does anyone has a tutorial for me?

As I have enough tools with me, I will remove the cover of the tailgate tomorrow morning, before we start our journey back to Germany. I'll check the version with the bumper, tomorrow. If the motor has to be overhauled, I can do this, when I'm back in my workshop. Currently, my biggest problem is, that we can't access our baggage and we have no access to the stroller without removing one child seat and lift it into the cabin...

Ok, I will try this again, cause this was also my first idea. But in my opinion, it speaks against it, that I always could close the window, but not open it anymore... The motor and the gears haven't made any suspicious sounds before...

I've searched the ground inside the engine bay...but I'm not sure where it should be near the wiper motor. But I'm relatively sure, that ground connection is given...the light won't get darker, unless there is much current flowing...so as this is the fact, there seems something wrong with the motor...I think I have to remove the panel of the tailgate and try to help the motor going down...maybe it stucks? Is this possible? Is there another way to get the window down?

I'll try that later, the car is currently in an underground car park, so I can work on it relatively good. I haven't connected the driver's tailgate switch, cause it was bad in my unit...but I can reconnect it to check, if this helps. Maybe also one of the connectors is bad or has a too high resistance... The thing, that make me pensive, is that everything was good when we started. Then, I think three days ago, I've parked the car in the blazing sun and we went to the beach. When we're back some hours later, the window won't move, but i can hear my relays click, when turning the key in the tailgate or using my remote... While driving back to our friends, I tried to lower the window without success...some miles later it suddenly works again...so I haven't checked anything...

Yes, that was my first though...I don't hope so, cause we have to get out all the baggage over the rear bench. And it's also very loud on the highway, if you can't open the tailgate window... I have all tools with me, including a multimeter...

So, I have a little problem now, as we're still in holidays and having all our baggage in the trunk... I'm unable to sink the tailgate window...if I have the headlights on, I see that there is current applied, when trying to move the window down, but the window doesn't move. So it seems not to be a problem of a limiter switch... Does anyone have a hint for me?

Hi together, it has taken a while for me to answer as we are still in holidays. @Jim: I know, what I'm driving and I love it! But as here in Europe everything changing regarding the fuel-types and taxes, I only will be save, that I can drive on. And if I'm able to save money, I'm a friend of it. @Gary and Bill That sounds good! Maybe we'll find a way to create a good setup. I think with two tanks, this is maybe possible. @Bill I also wish you the best for your surgery! Let's write, when you're fit again cause of the EEC-V and the MAF, we're talked about some weeks ago.