ckuske

Without knowing the details, the editor is probably a different ball of wax. These sites like Weebly have lots of HTML they add to what you put into the editor, and their editor may expect certain HTML to be there (they are assuming no customization of certain areas of HTML.. (at least typically)

Sure, that's fine if you don't mind. I can play with the HTML on my side once it is published at runtime (the F12 mode in Chrome/Edge lets you edit HTML in realtime in your browser as only local change)

Depending on how the page changes, you may need to move the added style tag to a child tag etc, but try the top one first as I sent to you.

Yup, *should* be it

If the banner needs to be there but you want it hidden, you can add the following to the "div" tag: style="display: none;" so This assumes there aren't any weird dependencies in other parts of the CSS/Javascript etc that rely on that taking real estate on the screen, but worth a shot.

Besides snapping a u-nut while backing out the brackets on the radiator support, I have the new condenser mounted. I wasn't totally happy with the positioning of the new holes I had to drill in the condenser brackets, but I doubt no one will even know besides me. As Dave told me earlier this year, the basic steps for me were: 1. Remove bottom brackets on radiator support 2. Flip passenger side bracket from front of condenser to back side 3. Drill new holes in top condenser brackets, about 1/4" lower than existing holes. Trim metal above these new holes off the brackets 4. Bottom of condenser sticks "out" (forward of the plane of the radiator support). Top of condenser mounts as original did, just repositioned a bit via the new holes in those brackets 5. Success... ???

Now that I understand the way to mitigate it, it’s not. It didn’t click that the bottom brackets needed to be taken off the radiator support, and I was hoping the GPD wouldn’t have the same problems as the Spectra. It turns out the GPD is a Spectra clone.

I took the brackets off the rad support and now things make much more sense. In fact, it almost seems to me that you could get away with not having brackets on the bottom at all, but probably not a great idea. The top condenser brackets line up nicely with the holes in the rad support. The bottom area would be the effort - and maybe putting a little rubber cover where the tubing touches the support.

Thanks Scott, I had seen this before but kind of just skimmed over it because I thought it may not be completely applicable. *But*, at second glance, the GPD does look suspiciously similar to the Spectra on that page. I can't be certain that its identical (though I did check the labels etc, no mention of Spectra) I didn't catch before that the bottom brackets on the radiator support were removed to accommodate the fit. Looks like I have some more test fitting to do...

Just now I took a WFH break and took the bottom brackets off the GPD 3605C A/C condenser, to see how it fit with some brackets out of the way. It *almost* fits except for this silly bend in the tubing. On a hunch, I chose the GPD because of all the issues I'd heard of with the Spectra unit, so maybe I'm a trailblazer (or A/C cannon fodder with a possibly useless condenser in my garage) I'm wondering if I could try a pipe bender? It'd be an expensive first try at that though... Depending how I angle things, you can see the offending tube behind or in front of the radiator support. In some of the pictures, the condenser should be shifted slightly towards the driver side, which makes bending the tubing a little more plausible.

Will do, I'll take a more critical look today about what I can do to make it fit. Maybe I'll just take the brackets off completely if I can and start from there to visualize how the brackets need to be modded to fit.

Good point, Gary. What are other people using? I've tried to find old hard rubber tiles around here, like the kind with that nifty asbestos in it haha but no luck. What do you think about using hose material? I can put a light coat grease on the felt to serve as a moisture barrier, but maybe that'll cause too much play and sliding around.

I got the Rad Support mounted today, as well as the RH fender so I can start hooking up wiring again etc. When I put the fender back on, I applied some nice thick felt (like the kind you put under chairs to prevent scuffs/scrapes), as I couldn't find a good rubber substitute. I read later to take old hose and flatten it, but I think what I have will work. Better yet, the bottom of the fender now aligns much better with the edge of the door (doesn't stick out)! Somehow I ordered two LH radiator insulators... doh. So I have another order from Dennis Carpenter on the way with a RH insulator a few more goodies like a new cluster lens (they make them for clusters with tripometers now!) and correct (Argent) headlight doors. Gotta justify that shipping cost! I test mounted the new GPD 3605C A/C condenser (from RockAuto). Frankly, the fit sucks. I didn't expect a perfect fit based on issues people had with the Spectra, but I can't get it even close (the tube on the bottom passenger side causes bigger problems than I've seen people have with the Spectra). I'll take a deep breath and try again. If I make it sorta fit on the bottom, it's too high to even get under the lip of the radiator support. It just occurred to me that I can probably cut down the bottom brackets and drill new holes. I'm not wanting to really do all that, but I realize I may not have much recourse. Unfortunately I'm way past the time where I can return it, so I'll have to make it work, or eat it. (Or, someone else is welcome to it, I'll give them a big break off what I paid for it or something?) I have an email into the makers of this condenser, it seems they are trying to make "the real deal" but I think it's a long shot... (https://www.ebay.com/itm/182746243327) I'm hoping the picture is wrong as it's clearly not correct.

Yeah, it's possible! I try to be really carefully but I guess I can't expect something to not slip through the cracks. And let's not talk about putting the dash back in.. that's a big baggie of screws and a couple of years later. (shudder)

Well worth it Are you talking about the tear drop shaped shim(s)? Yep, those are the ones. See here: https://shop.broncograveyard.com/1980-1997-Ford-Bronco-F-Series-Truck-Core-Support-Shims-Pair/productinfo/331036/ It's possible it somehow just made it into that bag o' parts, but I don't think so...

OK, next question. So I started digging through my box of parts where I have different parts of the truck (mainly bolts/fasteners, etc) bagged and tagged. I found my "RH Fender" bag, and I have a shim in there that is the same kind of shim that helps level out the radiator support. I am kicking myself because I don't remember where this was installed on the fender. So, my question is has anyone seen this sort of shim installed on a fender, and where was it installed? I can play with it but thought I'd ask.

I also did the same thing. Besides the support gets heavy with the stuff bolted to it but the BIG ONE - what if it got away from you and fell the radiator & condenser could get damaged. Dave ---- Yeah, I thought of that too. Thanks to you both for talking me out of of it. :)

Ok, earlier in this thread there were some question marks regarding the fit of the new A/C condenser, maybe I'll at least lay that on top of the support to visualize what changes are needed for when it's time to mount it for real. I just wanted to bounce this off everyone to see if fitting everything first to the support was a "work smarter, not harder" approach. I agree mounting the support first is the path that comes to mind first...

Ok, time for a "what would you do" .... I'm almost about ready to mount the RH fender back on and hook up the vacuum lines and wiring connectors to try an engine start. The other reason for mounting the RH fender is so I can reattach the radiator support with the new radiator etc because you need a radiator for running an engine, right? Would you guys mount the A/C condenser and radiator where possible to the support FIRST, then put the support back onto the truck? Or install the support first then mount cooling components onto the support after it's back on the truck? I'm also going to put the 90 degree petcock on the radiator before mounting it (good suggestion from Scott/kramtocs)

I remember that radio as well, my grandparents had an Crown Vic LTD with a similar one. You wouldn't believe my kids faces (14 and 12) when I explained how to save presents on these radios via the "pull out push in" buttons. You would have thought we used stone tablets (compared to now, that's not far off though!)

I really want my interior to be as stock as possible, but I also like a good audio system. Bluetooth would be nice to answer calls and play podcasts etc. I have a nice OE radio/cassette unit - I'm thinking of putting that back in with a bluetooth amp under the seat (hopefully with USB charging too) so basically tinny sound for the radio/cassette, and better audio quality via the bluetooth amp. Does anyone else have this setup, or recommendations whether this works out ok or not?

No worries Gary, I completely understand, I appreciate you taking the time. It just pushes me to dig in a little deeper. As no-one said "NO, DON'T DO THAT!" I'll keep moving forward!

I buzzed it out, and it seems like the black connector is the wire to the electric choke, so that got hooked up to the Stator terminal

Hi All, So I'm putting things back on - just replaced the power steering hoses, I'm painting the fan shroud with SEM black so it matches everything else, put the foam gasket between the blower motor and the plenum that I bought etc. I've started tightening belts and getting ready to move on to putting the radiator support etc back in and prepare to fire! But first, remember when I let my alternator fall? I swore I'd remember what goes where... well, some months later I found I've broken my cardinal rule and didn't write it down. I'm confident the wire with the terminal lug is correct, but the other two I'm not sure of, only because the wire colors are essentially gone. This is a 1G alternator. One for sure is O/LB (the red cap wire) so I'm guessing its to Field (F), so that means the other should be Stator (S) even thought its not W/BK. I guess the Red/Black caps on those wires are there just to confuse things more???? Can anyone confirm? If it's not clear to you either, I'll go buzz out the wire to the choke, that would clear it up I suppose but I'd appreciate the input anyway!

Hi Gary, I just tapped in the address bar and pressed "Go", as Chrome on iOS doesn't have a refresh icon/button.