ckuske

So I got my correct pair of radiator mounts, it's been a long day so maybe I'm going to get the dunce cap... The nubs on the bottom of the insulators seem to orient themselves in such a way that the "trough" of the insulators that the radiator would sit in is facing outwards, instead of inwards. The nubs insert into the radiator support itself and are keyed in such a way that you can't swap one side for the other or orient them in another way. I don't have a "before" picture, but this seems odd. Thoughts?

I did the same in the doors only, nothing on the floor other than the used carpet with backing it came with. I did not have the truck on the road with nothing in the doors but did before the carpet and it was night and day difference on the noise! Dave ---- You guys are right, I need to remember this is an old truck, not a luxury car.

Did you notice any odor during or after install? I've seen some comments about that in reviews. How does it do with heat? Noico doesn't seem to indicate it does much to prevent heat from getting through, while Dynamat does.

I would have taken those map pockets for sure, and the bezels looked really nice too. A shame.

Congrats on your sale, Cory. I'm sure it wasn't a slam dunk decision by any means, but I'm glad you got a good amount for the truck. I've been stalking your Blue Mule thread since I've joined - it's where I hope to end up with my own 84 Flareside. I'll get there eventually, thanks for the inspiration along the way!

Great pics, thanks for sharing

Thanks for the feedback, gsm!

Dynamat seems the way to go looking at reviews, but sheesh is it expensive! Thanks for the feedback - I definitely have food for thought.

Thanks for the feedback Scott and Gary! Gary, you're right that POR15 would be a good solution to seal the floor against any other pinholes etc that may be present. There were a few tiny ones that I left (like a pinprick size), because I was getting nervous about the amount of times I got the floor red hot. I'll consider that. The perfectionist side of me wants to have the original color paint on the floor, but the practical side of me goes "why does it matter?! no one will ever know the difference!" (except me). Regarding adding anything to POR15 - the rust encapsulator is what I used on my frame underneath the Chassis Black as recommended by Eastwood. I figured if it was good enough for the frame, it'd be good enough for the cab? (Wondering aloud). I will probably try to re-paint over the existing Midnight Blue in hard to reach areas (behind the seat, etc). I figure it will save me money down the road when I get the rest of the truck painted assuming it turns out well. Scott, I'm definitely going to put something down over the bare metal. I know there are different opinions as to what is the "best" one, but something like Dynamat is definitely part of the plan. Over that will go carpet or possibly a rubber mat - the truck originally had the rubber mat but I'm not sure which way I want to go yet. I was on target to get the SEM paint to paint all the plastic in the cab to put the interior back together, but the floor has steered me in a different direction for now. I guess I do need to decide on insulation material - I was going to do the floor, rear of the cab, and doors. What have you guys used? Dynamat? Opinions???

So my son and I tried our hands at brazing - it ain't pretty, but it seems to have worked and seems solid. I thought I was done, but then shined a flashlight from underneath the floor pan upwards, and more holes revealed themselves. Since the picture, I have sprayed the entire passenger area floor pan with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. I have also found a site to order an aerosol paint kit of my factory color (interior is still painted this way), with a separate clear coat etc from expresspaint.com (anyone use them before?). Since all this is going to be under the carpet etc, this should be good enough and it'll help prevent future issues/rust.

Thanks! I got some Evaporust gel, gonna let that sit tonight and see how much it cleans up. I'm taking my son fishing out on the ocean tomorrow, so I'll probably try to braze on Tuesday. I'll send out an update at that point. I was told by someone at work a few years older than me - if your teenager asks you to go do something with them... do it! As most of us on this board remember what being a 14 year old boy was like, I can't say it's bad advice! haha

Thanks Gary. I went to Lowe’s this morning and got some MAPP gas and some brazing rods. We shall see how I do!

I’ll check that out, I have a propane torch - do you think that’d work? Google results seem split but “yeah, probably” I’m not a rust expert thankfully, but this is a little different than what I’m used to seeing - it’s raised but not hollow bubbles either. Not sure what to call it. Scale maybe? But it’s not easily removed - I took a wire brush to it in a drill and it really didn’t budge.

So, I'm waiting for the rubber radiator mounts to come before I can move forward in the engine bay, so I decided to start scrubbing/cleaning up the cab. I've already stripped out all the plastic and dash, as I plan to paint everything in SEM in the next couple months so it matches. There was some remaining glued down insulation on the passenger floor that I needed to remove, so I tore it out and had a nasty surprise. I realize this is probably minor compared to East Coast/Midwest trucks, but I was surprised as this has been a California truck all its life. When the truck was still my dads, I remember that the heater core sprung a leak in the early 90s. Back then, the original rubber flooring were installed... maybe some of the water leeched underneath the rubber flooring and became trapped and no one knew any better? The steel doesn't seem weak, you can press on the edges of the holes and it doesn't give. I'm thinking about just patching the small holes with something like QuikSteel after putting Evaporust on it and then spraying some Eastwood Rust Encapsulator in the affected area. Any advice would be appreciated. Since I'm going to be painting in the cab now anyway, I was thikning of trying to paint the floor pan etc myself with the original paint (3L) as this is what I intend to get done in the next year or two for the exterior. Has anyone done this with the Preval sprayer? I don't have air tools etc. And, any ideas of where I could procure a quart or so of this paint? I can call around locally but I didn't know if there was a known website to get small amounts of exterior paint.

I'm at four years as well. I was slow in the beginning but now that I'm working from home, I find more time to trot out to the garage between Zoom meetings haha. My goal is to be "done" this time next year, minus paint. Major work (assuming I've not botched anything in the engine bay) that remains is: Repaint/reinstall interior Take bed off, repair rusted front crossmember Replace bed wood Then, paint!

Yeah, a little bit. But it’ll probably be ok as is. I imagine an air dam of some sort could be made to prevent air from getting through that gap, but probably not worth the trouble. I’m to the stage in this project where I just want to be able to drive this thing again haha.

Ok, gotcha. Wasn’t sure what components were landing where. Bummer.

When we move to the new forum site, we will have our own copy of all the code, correct?

It was worth a shot. I don't know how critical it is to you - we can try to troubleshoot the editor situation but Scott or I (only suggesting Scott as he is an Admin already I think?) would probably need access to that functionality, or a dump of the HTML from that page to understand what's going on... what Weebly is doing behind the scenes when in the editor.

I was also wondering about being really sneaky and having a JavaScript snippet run "onload" to get rid of the padding dynamically... but we may not be able to inject that anyway....

Give this a shot: " "

I wonder what would happen if Gary set the banner div padding explictly, then set display: none on the banner-content div? Which padding setting will win?? Probably Weebly's, but...

Yeah Scott, I did see that. That's why I mentioned to Gary that the Weebly editor is "helpful" and adds extra bits but I didn't specifically mention the padding it seemed to add after Gary tweaked it. Agreed it may not help. I understand why they don't let people do their own HTML necessarily, but it drives me crazy at the same time. Sometimes you get pinned in a corner because of it...

Someone needs to help me understand how to "modify the banner-content css class to set the display property there". Change: " " to: " "

I can't help as much with Bullnose questions , but software is a different story. Happy to help