Restore of my 1986 Bronco XLT

[ReneH]

I've decided to open a new threat for the upcoming work and the resulting questions.For all the people that helped me in the past, I want first to inform you, that by now everything seems to be good. I've driven 250 miles since the successful cam break-in about two weeks ago. Only trips with more than 20 miles driving whithout turning off the engine. So I'm quiet confident, that now everything will work regarding the cam and the lifters.So as the next holidays are coming closer and I need the truck to drive with the family, there is some work left. Sure, I'll not be able to do everything I want or that's planed, cause we'll start in five weeks, so I have four weeks left to do necessary things.

 

Following my list of things to do:

 

Technical necessary

1. Engine is running shakey while setting the C6 in position P.
2. Front break rotors have to be changed, cause they're shrunk and squiking.
3. There is a low frequency noise when driving faster than 60 mph. A rotating noise, very deep and slow. At about 60 mph not more than two times a second.
4. Getting rid of the rattle and squiking that my door-panels do.

Nice to have

1. Getting rid of the whistling sound of the intake
2. Getting my 360° cams installed.
3. Building my center console with integrated dual subwoofer and adding the center speaker in the dashboard.
4. Adding the central door-lock to my remotecontrol. Tailwindow is already remote-controlable.
5. Mounting the steps, that the kids can enter the truck more easy.

 

 

Technical necessary

1. I already have changed the plugs, without any change. Today I'll check the vacuum value while idling. I'll also re-check the basic-timing, It should be set to 12 degrees. Maybe someone has other ideas what can cause a raw idle? It's most pronounced when staying in parking position and gets less in neutral and more less in driving or rear position of the C6
2. I'm still not 100% sure what parts I need, but Gary is already on the hunt to find the right ones...
3. I have no idea where I should start to search here...It's a very slow rotating noise. I can't imagine any rotating parts that rotates so slow at about 60 mph. Maybe the tires, cause the truck was standing about 3/4 year? I really have no idea...
4. The former owner has replaced the door- and sidepanels with parts from a 90th truck. That have told me BigBlue from the FSB forum. So, not everything fits 100%. I see the biggest problem with the inside windo guide felt. It has other clips than the 80th version. I'm thinking about to buy the felts from the 90th trucks

By the way, can someone tell me where I can buy the trim-clips for the chrome-trims?Thanks for all your help in advance!

[ReneH]

So, to find out which rotor will fit, I've removed the wheel on the driver's side...

I think as I have to remove the wheel bolts, I also should buy new ones. Also my wheel nuts are not very pretty anymore...

So in my opinion the rotor from raybestos I've chosen will fit.

But looking at the rotor, it doesn't looks so bad at all...maybe it's a problem of the caliper or the piston? Turning the rotor without the wheel, you can hear the pads dragging on the rotor.

[Gary Lewis]

So, to find out which rotor will fit, I've removed the wheel on the driver's side...

I think as I have to remove the wheel bolts, I also should buy new ones. Also my wheel nuts are not very pretty anymore...

So in my opinion the rotor from raybestos I've chosen will fit.

But looking at the rotor, it doesn't looks so bad at all...maybe it's a problem of the caliper or the piston? Turning the rotor without the wheel, you can hear the pads dragging on the rotor.

The Bullnose calipers do not center well and the pads almost always drag on the rotors. Ford later changed the calipers so they slide better, but you are pretty well stuck with the style you have.

On the rotor, measure them where they are worn. Then go to the page at Documentation/Driveline/Brakes and then the Front Brakes tab and then the Disk Brake R&R tab. There's a section of the factory shop manual there and at the very end of it should be specifications on how thin the rotor can be.

If you do decide to buy new ones the Raybestos ones are the ones I'd go for. And it won't hurt to have new lug nuts, although yours don't look bad.

But if you are doing that you might consider buying a whole new hub. This one from ACDelco says it comes with the wheel bearings, but I can't confirm that from the advert so it will take more research. And, that'll add a lot of weight to your shipment. Plus, it says the country of origin is China.

[ReneH]

The Bullnose calipers do not center well and the pads almost always drag on the rotors. Ford later changed the calipers so they slide better, but you are pretty well stuck with the style you have.

On the rotor, measure them where they are worn. Then go to the page at Documentation/Driveline/Brakes and then the Front Brakes tab and then the Disk Brake R&R tab. There's a section of the factory shop manual there and at the very end of it should be specifications on how thin the rotor can be.

If you do decide to buy new ones the Raybestos ones are the ones I'd go for. And it won't hurt to have new lug nuts, although yours don't look bad.

But if you are doing that you might consider buying a whole new hub. This one from ACDelco says it comes with the wheel bearings, but I can't confirm that from the advert so it will take more research. And, that'll add a lot of weight to your shipment. Plus, it says the country of origin is China.

Ok, new hubs are something after the holidays.

The break power is good. I only want to get rid of the squiking noise the breaks a performing...it makes you mad...

But as no knowing if it comes from old rotors that became new pads or if the piston is maybe the problem, it makes hard for me to order...

The next thing are the gaskets. It seems that the former owner has replaced the vent windows or the whole doors with ones from a 90th truck:

Sorry for the content hopping...but I'll try to use the time as best as possible...

[ReneH]

So, it's my next post...I've measured the vacuum and also the idle rpm when C6 ist set to parking. Here is the video:

I have unplugged the vacuum line to the cruise control to measure...no real shaking anymore while measuring...interesting...

So I've connected the cruise control again.

Now it's shakey again...interesting...

So, as my cruise control is in good condition, in my opinion and the line from the plenum to it is new, I've disconnected the line to the breakpedal release and plugged the opening at the cruise control...

Not shakey anymore...

I've done a test-drive with this setup...a bit more shakey again when standing at a traffic light, but better than with the relese hose connected...so where is the problem?

It's maybe a vacuum leak...a small one...or only the idel speed is too high...as you look at the video, you'll see it's at about 630 when c9ld, 820 rpm when warm.

What do you think about my vacuum value?

[ReneH]

This is what I've currently added to my basket:

Are these brands ok? What do you think?

[Gary Lewis]

So, it's my next post...I've measured the vacuum and also the idle rpm when C6 ist set to parking. Here is the video:

I have unplugged the vacuum line to the cruise control to measure...no real shaking anymore while measuring...interesting...

So I've connected the cruise control again.

Now it's shakey again...interesting...

So, as my cruise control is in good condition, in my opinion and the line from the plenum to it is new, I've disconnected the line to the breakpedal release and plugged the opening at the cruise control...

Not shakey anymore...

I've done a test-drive with this setup...a bit more shakey again when standing at a traffic light, but better than with the relese hose connected...so where is the problem?

It's maybe a vacuum leak...a small one...or only the idel speed is too high...as you look at the video, you'll see it's at about 630 when c9ld, 820 rpm when warm.

What do you think about my vacuum value?

I'm confused. In the first video it was idling at about 630 and 16 inches of vacuum and then it jumped up to maybe 680 RPM and 18 inches of vacuum. What happened to cause that?

But in all cases the vacuum is very steady. VERY steady, which seems unusual. Where do you have your vacuum gauge connected?

When you "unplugged the vacuum line to the cruise control to measure" did you plug the line or leave it open to suck air? If you left it open then it leaned out the mix and brought the RPM up due to the extra air. That may be enough to get out of the RPM range where the engine is shaking.

As for the shaking, have you posted a video of that? I don't think I've seen it. But from the sound and the vacuum I'm not seeing any problems.

[ReneH]

I'm confused. In the first video it was idling at about 630 and 16 inches of vacuum and then it jumped up to maybe 680 RPM and 18 inches of vacuum. What happened to cause that?

But in all cases the vacuum is very steady. VERY steady, which seems unusual. Where do you have your vacuum gauge connected?

When you "unplugged the vacuum line to the cruise control to measure" did you plug the line or leave it open to suck air? If you left it open then it leaned out the mix and brought the RPM up due to the extra air. That may be enough to get out of the RPM range where the engine is shaking.

As for the shaking, have you posted a video of that? I don't think I've seen it. But from the sound and the vacuum I'm not seeing any problems.

Hi Gary,

I have disconnected the vacuum line from the plenum to the cruise control and plugged my gauge into it, so no open vacuum lines.

First video the engine was cold, second it was warm...that's the only difference.

Can this steady vacuum caused by the small drills that I have made through the throttle plates? Or do you think that there may a vacuum leak somewhere?

I have this video posted in the former threat:

But the shaking seems to stop when I disconnect the line from the cruise control to the break-pedal...I can test this again and measure the vacuum on the line for the vent flaps (don't know if you know where I mean...)

[Gary Lewis]

Hi Gary,

I have disconnected the vacuum line from the plenum to the cruise control and plugged my gauge into it, so no open vacuum lines.

First video the engine was cold, second it was warm...that's the only difference.

Can this steady vacuum caused by the small drills that I have made through the throttle plates? Or do you think that there may a vacuum leak somewhere?

I have this video posted in the former threat:

But the shaking seems to stop when I disconnect the line from the cruise control to the break-pedal...I can test this again and measure the vacuum on the line for the vent flaps (don't know if you know where I mean...)

Ok, no open vacuum lines. Good!

And I have now watched the video of the shakes. That's quite of bit of shake.

But I'm not sure what you mean by "disconnect the line from the cruise control to the break-pedal". That should be a vacuum dump line that is closed until you depress the pedal. If that line isn't closed when the brakes are off then you may have a vacuum leak. So I would concentrate on checking that out.

That line is a safety to kill the vacuum to the speed control, and while it isn't a good idea to cap it off permanently you can cap it off for testing.

[ReneH]

Ok, no open vacuum lines. Good!

And I have now watched the video of the shakes. That's quite of bit of shake.

But I'm not sure what you mean by "disconnect the line from the cruise control to the break-pedal". That should be a vacuum dump line that is closed until you depress the pedal. If that line isn't closed when the brakes are off then you may have a vacuum leak. So I would concentrate on checking that out.

That line is a safety to kill the vacuum to the speed control, and while it isn't a good idea to cap it off permanently you can cap it off for testing.

Yes, I've only disconnected it for testing.

But if this line is closed with open brakes, how could it have a leak?

The problem only occurs when the car is standing still and mostly when set in parking...

Is my idle not too low when cold? I've read the 347 stroker should have about 800 to 900 idle speed...

And about the vacuum value. Is it OK?

What could be the reason for the steadiness?