Dk46 Posted August 6, 2019 Share Posted August 6, 2019 I have started with trying to straighten out the complete mess of cut, tangled, and spliced wire all over this bronco. I have the evtm and it is a life saver, believe me. Today’s question is this, the wiring from the fuse block that should be hot in acc or run is only hot in run. The key switch feels fine as it turns but no juice unless you go all the way to run. Again I really appreciate any and all help I can get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 6, 2019 Share Posted August 6, 2019 Danny, you might try checking the ignition switch adjustment. Gary has outlined the way you stick a pin through the switch, to lock it, and then retighten the nut holding it to the column. But you say it won't work in ACCY, and that may be down to a broken actuator rod. The rod might push the switch into run & start, but not pull it back. Just stick your head under there and work the key back and forth to see what it is, or isn't doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 6, 2019 Share Posted August 6, 2019 Danny - Jim has a point, it could be the adjustment of the ignition switch. You can see how to adjust it here: Electrical/Ignition and on the Ignition Switch tab. Or, it could be that the ignition switch itself is bad. You can see from the diagram below that there is only one set of contacts in the switch that handles Accy, and those are the ones which feed Circuit 297, the black/light green hash wire. But we know that section of the switch is getting power or Circuit 32 wouldn't get power and the truck wouldn't start. So you could try adjusting the ignition switch, but I fear that it is bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted August 6, 2019 Share Posted August 6, 2019 ...the wiring from the fuse block that should be hot in acc or run is only hot in run. Are you saying you get no change when you turn the key backward to ACC? Study this diagram, its caption, and the relevant links in it: https://supermotors.net/getfile/831772/thumbnail/igswlogic.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dk46 Posted August 7, 2019 Author Share Posted August 7, 2019 ...the wiring from the fuse block that should be hot in acc or run is only hot in run. Are you saying you get no change when you turn the key backward to ACC? Study this diagram, its caption, and the relevant links in it: https://supermotors.net/getfile/831772/thumbnail/igswlogic.jpg Well after testing and adjusting its the switch itself . Now another question. Im gonna put the cut off valve for the a/c. Does it matter which heater hose i put the valve on?? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 7, 2019 Share Posted August 7, 2019 Well after testing and adjusting its the switch itself . Now another question. Im gonna put the cut off valve for the a/c. Does it matter which heater hose i put the valve on?? Thanks Glad you got it figured out. As for the "cutoff valve for the A/C", I'm going to assume you mean you are installing a water shutoff valve in the heater hose line. Right? If so, then it doesn't matter which of the two hoses you put it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 7, 2019 Share Posted August 7, 2019 Glad you got it figured out. As for the "cutoff valve for the A/C", I'm going to assume you mean you are installing a water shutoff valve in the heater hose line. Right? If so, then it doesn't matter which of the two hoses you put it in. I'm going to assume low pressure cut out near the compressor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted August 7, 2019 Share Posted August 7, 2019 Does it matter which heater hose i put the valve on?Functionally, no. Stopping the coolant in one place within that circuit stops it everywhere in that circuit. But it's better to block the hose coming from the intake - the hot/supply/PRESSURE side. Blocking the cold side puts the heater core under slightly more pressure, which makes it more prone to leak or rupture. The best way to do it is to use a 4-port valve, so coolant still flows. https://supermotors.net/getfile/992200/thumbnail/38htrvlv.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 7, 2019 Share Posted August 7, 2019 Does it matter which heater hose i put the valve on?Functionally, no. Stopping the coolant in one place within that circuit stops it everywhere in that circuit. But it's better to block the hose coming from the intake - the hot/supply/PRESSURE side. Blocking the cold side puts the heater core under slightly more pressure, which makes it more prone to leak or rupture. The best way to do it is to use a 4-port valve, so coolant still flows. https://supermotors.net/getfile/992200/thumbnail/38htrvlv.jpg The famous Ranger 4port valve mod? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 7, 2019 Share Posted August 7, 2019 Does it matter which heater hose i put the valve on?Functionally, no. Stopping the coolant in one place within that circuit stops it everywhere in that circuit. But it's better to block the hose coming from the intake - the hot/supply/PRESSURE side. Blocking the cold side puts the heater core under slightly more pressure, which makes it more prone to leak or rupture. The best way to do it is to use a 4-port valve, so coolant still flows. https://supermotors.net/getfile/992200/thumbnail/38htrvlv.jpg Yeah, I thought about explaining all that. But when I didn't know if it was really the heater hose he was talking about I took the easy way out. And, the Ranger 4-port is a good mod. I just have a cable-operated valve with no cable in Big Blue's supply-side heater hose and I turn it on in the winter and off in the spring. But I really want to try my vacuum-operated mod, so...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts