Alternator Help

[fords4life]

I'm not sure what I have. I believe this was a 3g conversion, but all the conversions I've seen used the plug on the outside of the alternator. This was hardwired and had to be cut to remove before I pulled the motor. Any thoughts? I want to clean it up with plugs so I can remove early if needed. Nothing was plugged into the black box and no external voltage regulator.

EDIT: The pigtail may be a plug after doing a little more research, but I couldn't get it off to save my life.

Thanks!

[Gary Lewis]

You have a 2G alternator, as shown in the pic below from this page: Documentation/Electrical/3G Conversion. Hopefully that page will explain how to do the conversion because the 2G is also called the "fire starter". It was a known problem that Ford phased out pretty quickly in favor of the 3G.

[fords4life]

You have a 2G alternator, as shown in the pic below from this page: Documentation/Electrical/3G Conversion. Hopefully that page will explain how to do the conversion because the 2G is also called the "fire starter". It was a known problem that Ford phased out pretty quickly in favor of the 3G.

Thanks Gary. Not sure why I couldn't figure it out. Probably has something to do with 2 Long days and only a few hours of sleep in between.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks Gary. Not sure why I couldn't figure it out. Probably has something to do with 2 Long days and only a few hours of sleep in between.

No prob.

There is a TSB on the 2G issue. The issue had to do with poor connections, and since you have a hard time getting that connector out you might want to make sure it is good.

[fords4life]

No prob.

There is a TSB on the 2G issue. The issue had to do with poor connections, and since you have a hard time getting that connector out you might want to make sure it is good.

I'm not gonna chance it. Too much $$ and sweat equity into the truck to risk something like that. I'll but a 3g alternator and do the swap.

[Gary Lewis]

I'm not gonna chance it. Too much $$ and sweat equity into the truck to risk something like that. I'll but a 3g alternator and do the swap.

That's an even better plan.

[fords4life]

That's an even better plan.

Gary - Just a note. You mention in the 3g page that trucks with v-belts use an 8.25" mount spacing with a more that it needs to be confirmed. The alternator that came off my 86 has a 7" mount spacing and I'm running v-belts.

[85lebaront2]

No prob.

There is a TSB on the 2G issue. The issue had to do with poor connections, and since you have a hard time getting that connector out you might want to make sure it is good.

A lot of the service 2G units (the ones Matt carried) came with a permanently installed connector and a nice pair of splices. Part of the 2G issues are not completely the alternator's fault, the voltage sense is moved beyond the alternator's fusible links, so if the links blow the alternator goes full field and burns itself up.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gary - Just a note. You mention in the 3g page that trucks with v-belts use an 8.25" mount spacing with a more that it needs to be confirmed. The alternator that came off my 86 has a 7" mount spacing and I'm running v-belts.

The 130A 3G that we all look for has a bigger body and with 7" C-C it won't swing far enough to adjust.

That's why we say get the 8.25" model.

I agree with Bill.

A lot of replacement 2G alternators came hard wired (eliminating the fire prone plug, and forcing you to cut away the wire ends that were compromised)

Because it took even Gary forever to understand the differences, I'm going to restate it;

There are two amperages commonly available, 95 & 130A.

95A models have FOUR holes in the ribs and are 135mm in diameter.

130A models have TWO holes in the ribs and are 148mm in diameter.

The ones we are looking for swing mount, opposed to side mount or V-mount or anything else.

They will have two mounting 'ears' with holes 180* apart.

One pivot side ear that the long shank bolt fits through and one threaded (in most cases) adjuster ear.

The mounting holes also come in two 'flavors', 7" C-C and 8.25" C-C.

If you have swing mount you want 8.25".

If you have a fuel injected engine with a polygroove belt (except for 300 I-6) you want the 7" model.

ETA: should I start a list of donor vehicles and Lester numbers, or has Gary finally posted that info?

[Gary Lewis]

The 130A 3G that we all look for has a bigger body and with 7" C-C it won't swing far enough to adjust.

That's why we say get the 8.25" model.

I agree with Bill.

A lot of replacement 2G alternators came hard wired (eliminating the fire prone plug, and forcing you to cut away the wire ends that were compromised)

Because it took even Gary forever to understand the differences, I'm going to restate it;

There are two amperages commonly available, 95 & 130A.

95A models have FOUR holes in the ribs and are 135mm in diameter.

130A models have TWO holes in the ribs and are 148mm in diameter.

The ones we are looking for swing mount, opposed to side mount or V-mount or anything else.

They will have two mounting 'ears' with holes 180* apart.

One pivot side ear that the long shank bolt fits through and one threaded (in most cases) adjuster ear.

The mounting holes also come in two 'flavors', 7" C-C and 8.25" C-C.

If you have swing mount you want 8.25".

If you have a fuel injected engine with a polygroove belt (except for 300 I-6) you want the 7" model.

ETA: should I start a list of donor vehicles and Lester numbers, or has Gary finally posted that info?

Jim - Thanks. I missed this.

And it has taken me a long time to get my head around it. Operative word is "has" as I'm not sure it is in the past tense.

In any event, we do have two Lester #'s posted here: Documentation/Electrical/3G Conversion and on the Choosing An Alternator tab. But if you have more please post them here and I'll get them included. (And if you already have and I've missed that then I'm sorry.)