New 86' F150 4X4

emunder wrote

Have you followed the rubber hose & steel line down the wheelwell & under the truck to see what that contraption is?  It almost looks like a switching valve for a bifuel (gas/propane/CNG) system.

I'd guess the problem with HVAC airflow is related to blend door cable adjustment, or vacuum lines.  I'm not familiar with that dealer A/C, but some of your pics seem to show cut vacuum lines under the dash.  In any case, I'd look into pulling all that mess out (even the in-dash box, which is the hardest part) and swapping to a factory A/C in-dash box (almost any '80-96 will work), and a '94-96 (R134a) underhood system.

Battery terminals like that negative one make me cringe...

@ Rembrant: Thank you I will take a look at the cab reinforcement brace for the master cylinder, wasn't aware of that issue.

@ Ardwrkntrk:

1. Yeah I took the battery brace off because at the bottom of the pan where it connects is rusted so it doesn't hold it down. I've since run a heavy duty black zip tie around the battery & the pan to keep it held down for the time being.
2. You are correct on the rad support...it has writing from a junk yard so they replaced it.
3. Where can you get the duct work? I would like to get that routed back to the front. Also...do you need anything to connect it to the air cleaner & rad support (assuming that's where it attaches on the other end).
4. I will def take a look at the bushing on the clutch pedal...thx for the heads up on that!
5. Yes that wiring around the thermostat housing goes to the AC compressor. That whole system is ******rigged lol. I'm also worried because the accumulator because the stock unit is missing. From what I can tell this is what is supposed to be there...

Looks like they completely moved it to the front of the truck with some type of aftermarket piece...

And then all of the AC lines are just rubber hoses with hose clamps instead of the pressure fittings. I have no idea how the system blows cold & is not leaking.
6. Guessing the evap coil is in the cab under the pass side dash by the fan unit? Where is the AC condensate drain? Same location? Guessing I need to look & see if one or both of these is clogged. May solve the leak issue & the weak air coming out of the vents. The system blows cold it's just that there is barely any air coming out of the vents when the fan is on high. It stays consistently cold but the airflow is also consistently weak. Never speeds up when the AC is on.

Steve yes...I was thinking the same thing. Knew all those weird steel lines on the driver side fender were not stock. I will track them down & see where they go but I agree...they need to be pulled out & issue corrected w/ stock parts. I also agree on the neg battery terminal...they have all kinds of things connected to the terminals. Ughhhh...I really hate it when people do stupid stuff like this, then you have to go back & correct everything. My issue is I am not finding any pics online on how all of this is supposed to look. Thinking about just buying a set of shop manuals. Figure the Chilten or Hayes are probably not sufficient.

emunder wrote

And then all of the AC lines are just rubber hoses with hose clamps instead of the pressure fittings. I have no idea how the system blows cold & is not leaking.

Believe it or not, that may be correct for dealer air - my 1980 is that way and despite appearances it doesn't seem to leak.

6. Guessing the evap coil is in the cab under the pass side dash by the fan unit? Where is the AC condensate drain? Same location? Guessing I need to look & see if one or both of these is clogged. May solve the leak issue & the weak air coming out of the vents. The system blows cold it's just that there is barely any air coming out of the vents when the fan is on high. It stays consistently cold but the airflow is also consistently weak. Never speeds up when the AC is on.

Your 16th photo on your big photo post shows the condensate drain; that rubber hose that goes down behind the floor mat exits the truck through a hole drilled in the floor.  

If you take your dash pad off (again, assuming yours is similar to mine) you'll see the plenum containing the evaporator coil.  There will be two ducts on the left side of it feeding the drivers side A/C vents, my guess is that one or both of these have gotten disconnected and that's why you're not feeling it blow.  You can also remove the passenger side A/C vents (there are spring tabs on either side of the vents holding them in, they might be brittle) and see into the plenum.

I don't have a good photo of my setup, but I had the same problem with no air coming out of my drivers side vents - here's what I found at the plenum:

Ok good to know on the AC hose fittings. I've never seen that before but then again this is the first old vehicle I have had with AC. None of my older cars in the past had air lol. I'll pull the dash pad & see if I can see what you are showing me...that makes sense if one of the ducts is not attached. I really want to find that leak so I'm not in danger of having my pass side floor board rusting up.

Great forum & you guys are all awesome! Thanks so much for all the help!

Hey, this has been on eBay for awhile. Maybe it can add to this discussion.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1980-1981-Ford-Bronco-Light-Truck-A-C-Evaporator-System-Bezel-Kit-dp/263739946959?hash=item3d682037cf:g:4CMAAOSwKRBa-jAN

That's a neat kit seeing how it comes with all the different bezels/controls for the bronco, single tank, rear tank, and cubby hole (what my 1980 has).

Certainly a lot of good parts!

1) battery trays we can find.  David????

2) But with all that, they couldn't be bothered to paint it...  

3) The duct can be bought at NAPA generically.
There is a plastic boot that attaches just inboard of the battery tray.
Gary posted the numbers when he was building Dad's dual snorkel air cleaner. (March 2015?) I posted the date of the thread last week when I asked him about typefaces.

4) Yes. Look right above the gas pedal. You'll see the whiteish four finger bushing.
Dormant sells that in an assortment of wiper linkage bushings. (On my lunch now, don't have the number handy)

5)  I'm pretty good with looms, but that is a rats nest.
Can't be hard to make right. (But you shouldn't have to)

Anyway, keep it coming!
I hope you fall in love  with your new truck!

ArdWrknTrk wrote

1) battery trays we can find.  David????

Oddly, new battery trays are available...aftermarket of course. I have one in my truck. The factory design was really awful when you consider what road salt does to sheetmetal.

They're available from LMC for sure, and I think I've seen 'em on Rock Auto and Ebay as well. I bought the whole works from LMC with the hold down "J" bolts and nuts, and the plastic brace across the top of the battery. I believe they even sell the little triangle bracket that attaches to the core support, although that one is more prone to getting removed and lost as opposed to rusting away.

After market battery trays:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Ford+F150+battery+tray+1986&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=Ford+F150+battery+tray+NOS+1986

.... Which makes it even MORE un-frickn-believable that they sent this truck out this way.  

Granted, it is a sight unseen purchase of a 35yr old truck (I have nothing at all against the process, I bought my latest one the same way) so I wouldn't hold the dealer all that responsible for stuff like that. I'd say all in all, the OP did really well.
I see more trucks than not with janky wiring and unknown switches under the dash. One of my 85's came with a toggle switch to start the truck under the dash. Note I say toggle and not push-button. Accidentally hit that once and it was enough motivation to get the key working again. :)

emunder wrote

...not finding any pics online on how all of this is supposed to look. ...Hayes are probably not sufficient.

It doesn't really matter how it looks - if all the wires currently going to that cheapo terminal are soldered into a good one like that photo album shows, everything will work as well as (or better than) it does now.  But this shows how most bullnoses came off the line:



I'm not a fan of Chilton's, but Haynes is an excellent investment IF YOU READ IT.  It has a lot more info than most people realize.



I didn't see the beginning of the battery tray discussion, but the '87-96 tray is a direct fit, and an improvement in several ways.  The brace that bolts to the core support is easy to swap with the tray, if yours is rusted.  Get a long hold-down bolt from another Ford vehicle.

Question for you guys....been doing a lot of research on this dealer installed system & it is pretty butchered. Do y'all know of any under dash kit I could install that would fit with the floor shifter? I see a ton of universal kits & some slim line kits out there but guessing I would have to look at dimensions and see of one would fit without the stick shift getting in the way. Didn't know if anyone with a standard added a specific kit. If not I will keep looking around. Don't really care if it's an under dash kit just want the AC to cool the cab & this seems like the best solution without having to pull a whole system from a newer truck & try and mount it. Again...thanks! Should have my truck back today from window tint & then I am going to address the pull to the right I have with the front end.

Have you seen this company? Maybe they can suggest something.

https://www.vintageair.com/

Do you have any recourse through PayPal for "not as advertised"?

Document everything and don't wait until it's too late to make a claim.

You paid for a fully functional pickup, and you shouldn't have to deal with fake histories and outright lies.

Sorry, I have no advice on what AC will retrofit your truck.

Yeah they have been popping up in my searches. Maybe I'll give them a call & see if they have something that could work. Thanks!

I hear you. I am pretty aggravated to say the least. I did not go through paypal though & sent him a cashier's check so not sure what I could do. At this point I think I'm going to move forward & just get it right myself. Other than a few small issues it is a really nice truck. I am going to leave a nice review on the better business bureau though lol.

Huge alarms go off whenever somebody suggests going around eBay's protocol.
They're not paying the fee, AND they're not getting hit by bad reviews because the auction didn't go through.

It's a REALLY NICE truck!
But it's not what they said.
And that's wrong.