E4OD gears in a C6 aka wide ratio C6?

That upgrade is something I would do too if you had the trans out. The E4OD gearset also has roller bearings instead of thrust bearings/washers from what I've researched which helps get more power to the ground. That itself is a big upgrade as C6s are not known for efficiency.

I am having the same issue with my motor and modulator. I have a 5.0 HO roller cam in my 95 roller 351w in my 84 f150. I'm also running a C6. People say that you want to shift WOT at 5,200 to get the most out of that cam. Of course my vacuum modulator isn't set up for that but thankfully I don't have to drive to work or school at WOT. I've been driving around normally but have noticed it shifts early in my opinion. Haven't had the guts to see where it shifts at WOT just yet. New motor that I built so I'm still a little gun shy.  

There is rod inside of that modulator that you can lengthen or shorten that will move the shift points around further than you could with just the adjustment screw alone if you have that style of modulator. Or so I've heard. I haven't done it myself.

There is one question that I had that you might want to think of. Would you have to modify the valve body after putting in this new gearset? Most guys that do this swap, dragsters and rock crawlers, usually have a manual valve body so with that its just pick your gear when you want it. But if you have someone build it or bought one new then if that was a problem they'd have it solved.

I don't know how the governor works all I know is its playing with the weights and I don't think that is something I personally want to do especially considering I need a new transmission anyways.

For a few hundred more I don't see how it could hurt to have the lower gearing.  Sure you probably wont feel it as much but it will help out with pulling regardless.

I don't know on the modulator the one from Broader Performance looks like it comes with a black stripe modulator and a F servo and servo lever.

Basically this is what it says Broader Performance C6 comes with for their standard $1,460 C6 that is rated for 750 hp.

"This unit is suitable for heavily modified engines. Several upgrades including 5 clutch forward drum, 5 clutch direct drum, 5 clutch low/rev clutch, high strength rev hub, Carbon/Kevlar band, oiling system improvements, #9 needle bearing kit and performance shift improvers. Direct drum modified for high rpm with anti-rotation spring retainer (stops springs from wrapping up) and high speed bleed orifice (prevents clutch apply in 1st). Forward clutch drum piston is modified to help prevent disc spring failure and clutch pack blow out with higher line pressures. (allows use of higher line pressures and reduces loss of forward gears). F ratio servo lever and matching servo. Choose from stages 3-5"

Then for the Wide ratio C6 rated for 750hp its the same as the standard one above just with the Wide Ratio gear set for $1,725.

"Contains all of the upgrades included in the standard 750 HP model with the addition of first and second gear ratios are dropped for increased acceleration. Best used in trucks and heavy passenger cars wanting more pulling power or acceleration from a stop light. Gear ratios are as follows:
1st 2.75:1 (stock 2.45:1)
2nd 1.54:1 (stock 1.45:1)
3rd 1:1 (stock 1:1)"

But when I was looking at their valve bodies and the C6 valve body they have has the following description.

"A fully rebuilt high performance valve body featuring improved lube flow and shift timing. Each valve body surface is lapped on our lapping table to ensure flatness and proper seal.  Choose from stages 1-4 or our special Work Truck/RV calibration. Stage 1 is a soft shift progressing to Stage 4. Stage 4 is a hard shift and is recommended for use with higher stall torque converters. Valve bodies will hold 1st and 2nd gear positions at your command."

I believe their built C6 comes with this same valve body just don't understand the Stage 3 - 5 when the C6 automatic valve body is stage 1 - 4.  Unless stage 5 is that "work truck/RV calibration".  I wouldn't know but Broader is located here in Texas and for $1,725 for a built C6 transmission with no listed core charge I don't think I could have it built locally the same way for that price.

I just am waiting for the guy to email me back on if his built C6`s has the governor played with.

Engine wise, mine is just going to be a 306 roller with a crane roller truck cam with AFR 165 heads.  nothing fancy but its similar to the build specs for the blueprint 306 crate engine that is rated at 385 hp but mine will have AFR CNC machined heads while blueprint has some house made heads that aren't CNC machined.

I just want the transmission to be built beefy and to handle the 1,400 - 5,400 power band roller cam I have with a 6,000 redline.  Its also why I am looking at I believe its the XTM towing converter from hughes converters as that converter multiplies torque better than their standard towing converter, listed as a 2,500 rpm stall based off a big block so my 306 should stall around 2,000 - 2,200 rpm.  The converter also pumps I think it said 3 times the volume of transmission fluid as a standard converter so it works hard at cooling the fluid.  Im interested in seeing how cool it runs though and if I need to add an auxiliary cooler infront of my radiator after my in tank cooler.

That sounds like a pretty serious transmission. And I agree, if it were me I’d get that before having someone rebuild yours to that spec because it would probably be the same price. You’ll have a warranty, it’ll have everything engineered to work flawlessly, and you’ll be able to beat on it and not worry about it. I think that’s a good decision.

I’m interested to see how the torque converter works out for you. I’ve been hunting for a decent converter as well as mine slips more than I’d like to admit and I need mine to stall a little higher as my new cam moved my torque up a little. With my extra displacement it’s hard to notice but it could be better.

If it were me I’d go ahead and get an auxiliary cooler. The guy that built my trans last said that the radiator coolers are junk and to bypass it with a quality cooler. I’d go ahead and get a quality cooler especially if you want to flog on the thing and not worry about it. A good one isn’t cheap but you could also get one from a later model truck with an E4OD. I’ve got one off of a 95 and it is very good quality and pretty serious, plus it’s a factory Ford part

That's why I am looking at this one.  I just have to see if he plays with the governor.  If he does what nice about this is I can order it let them take their time and then drive my truck as is for now then pull the transmission when the new one comes in.

Cooler wise I thought of getting a OE style one but I have a Dealer AC system so my transmission cooler has to be mounted on the left side of the grill as the small condenser is mounted on the right side.  Im looking at one of these plate and fin type coolers and then buy a new C6 transmission cooler line set then bend my own hard line from the OE radiator cooler down under the radiator and up to the auxiliary cooler.  Then bend a line from the auxiliary cooler and link it to the return line via a inverted flare coupler.

The converter I am looking at is claimed to be a 2,500 rpm stall but their stall numbers are based on a big block.  They say a small block would stall 300 - 500 rpm lower.  I am not sure how ever part of me hopes its a 2,000 rpm stall on the small block but the way I understand it varies based off load so once going down the road at say 1,500 rpm then a 2,000 rpm stall converter shouldn't be excessively slipping as there is no longer a load.

But in the end with my cam being 1,400 - 5,400 rpm power band with a 2,400 to 3,000 rpm cruise range I think a 2,000 rpm - 2,500 rpm stall converter would be great it would help the small 306 get up into the rpm range where it starts making power and the improved torque multiplication over the standard towing converter would be nice as well.

But in the end I wont know till I get it all done.  Going to go with what I think on the transmission and then tailor the rear axle ratio to meet my goals.  I do know at the very least I will be running a deep transmission pan.  This coupled with the extra volume the torq converter flows should help cooling the fluid with the OE radiator cooler.  If not then I can always add an auxiliary cooler.  I just need to see what the transmission guy at broader says.  I will pay $2,000 for this transmission if its done right and if the automatic valve body is calibrated for towing applications along with tuning the governor for a 5,500 rpm shift point.

I just don't want a hard shift I want a positive shift that doesn't slip the clutches.  I don't want it to be like that C20 bonaza a customer at work has every time you shift that lifted truck into gear the driveshaft hammers hard trying to break the U joints due to the shift kit he has in that transmission.

I got a reply from Broader, looks like it will be a damn good transmission for anyone wanting a wide ratio C6.

He told me he can lighten the governor and get it pretty close to 5,500 rpm but he wont be able to get it exact cause the wide open shift point is controlled not just by the governor but by vacuum as well.

Only thing I am a little worried about is since I wont be sending my transmission in, I am a bit worried that I might have problems with it.  Like one of them is the output shaft with the drive gear for the speedometer.  I would have to look up what is the correct one for my truck cause I remember I did the math and running a 3.00:1 or 3.25:1 with 31" tires I can get a driven gear to bring my speedometer into calibration but I cant get one for the stock 2.75:1 with 31" tires.  I probably could request him to use a output shaft with the correct number of teeth on the drive gear.

The other aspect I am a bit worried about is if there is a difference between early and late production C6`s.  Like if I get him to build me one and its older than mine being an '82 production C6 if it will work with everything I have from the block plate to the starter and flex plate or will I have to start making changes.

I emailed a fairly local Ford transmission racing shop to see if they could build a custom transmission for me and how much.  This option would require I use my transmission but at least it will put me at ease knowing I wont have any compatibility issues.