2 Body repair questions

I intend to start fiberglass repairs now that it's warming up. I have done a lot on our boats thru the years. What should I do with the rust over the window? On the lower panel, I intend to cut the rust out witj a Dremel tool. I know I need to indent the edges and clean the inside of the repair areas to get a good bond. I have been told to use a rust preventative on the bare metal before repairing. An idea what I should use? Repair panela aren't an option at this time. I'm referring to this video:
 https://www.bing.com/videos/riverview/relatedvideo?&q=best+material+to+repair+large+pickup+truck+rust+holes&&mid=836ADADBB7F62C9AA182836ADADBB7F62C9AA182&&FORM=VRDGAR

Over the windows you should get on a stepladder and carefully inspect the caulking in the rain gutters.
If you see any hint of cracks or peeling scrape it out with a hook and use a wire wheel in a drill.
Some kind of rust treatment (SEM's Rust-Mort* for example). then re caulk the seams, A pillar to back window if need be.

The cab corner you can get a patch panel easily. It will be cheaper than the fiberglass cloth and resin you need.
Id suggest panel bonding adhesive, or even JB Weld, as shown by Jerry on YouTube's Lakeside Autobody channel.

I can go find the specific video, if you can't .....


https://shop.broncograveyard.com/1980-1986-Ford-Truck-Cab-Corner-LH/productinfo/34022/

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Over the windows you should get on a stepladder and carefully inspect the caulking in the rain gutters.
If you see any hint of cracks or peeling scrape it out with a hook and use a wire wheel in a drill.
Some kind of rust treatment (SEM's Rust-Moet for example). then re caulk the seams, A pillar to back window if need be.

The cab corner you can get a patch panel easily.
Id suggest panel bonding adhesive, or even JB Weld, as shown by Jerry on YouTube's

I can go find the specific video if you can't .....

Use a wire wheel in a drill to remove the rust over the door? No sanding?
Found this: SEM's Rust-Moet
Got these, Lakeside Autobody channel videos.

The cab corner you can get a patch panel easily. Hole is in the lower panel near the rear bumper.

Thanks for your help Jim.

Ooop!  Sorry I'm on my phone and have been on shift since 7:00. 🥱

I replaced the rear bed corner on my truck a few years back.
It wasn't expensive.
Hang on, BRB ..  ........  

Use a drill to remove the caulk in the gutters!
Doesn't have to make Pebble Beach up in there.....

The only difference is that '87 has rounded wheel wells, and you don't need that end anyhow....

$4x~ ... So I can't really do the math, but probably still cheaper than fiddling around trying to shape fiberglass

https://www.partsgeek.com/4fgcg8j-ford-f150-pickup-bed-panel.html

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Ooop!  Sorry I'm on my phone and have been on shift since 7:00. 🥱

I replaced the rear bed corner on my truck a few years back.
It wasn't expensive.
Hang on, BRB ..  ........  

It's all good, I appreciate the help!

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Use a drill to remove the caulk in the gutters!
Doesn't have to make Pebble Beach up in there.....

The only difference is that '87 has rounded wheel wells, and you don't need that end anyhow....

$4x~ ... So I can't really do the math, but probably still cheaper than fiddling around trying to shape fiberglass

https://www.partsgeek.com/4fgcg8j-ford-f150-pickup-bed-panel.html

Great parts site, Thanks Jim.

Hope this helps.  

I'm sure you'll get other opinions.
Don't discount them either. I'm a weird bird, and have my own ways of doing things.  

Jerry's old school 'git er done' type of body man.
Lots of people criticize, but you can see the results.
None of them are putting out videos showing their work.  🧐

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Hope this helps.  

I'm sure you'll get other opinions.
Don't discount them either. I'm a weird bird, and have my own ways of doing things.  

I understand, I can be the same way.

on the door edges the hard part is accessing the whole area that you need to. I am about to do one also, the chrome rain guard needs to be removed. sometimes it's the cause of the damage. the felt/rubber glass track needs to be removed, and if its a joining area the vent window also. wire brush all rusty spots paying attention to all paint edges and clean until you are creating a clean edge. treat with rust converter. let dry before sanding and skimming with filler. wire brushing smooths over the steel with a "galling" affect where sanding cuts. sanding is needed to give a bit of mechanical bond to the filler. this is the time to order new glass track gaskets also as they likely will not be worth putting back. many are so brittle that they come out one chip at a time like pulling wallpaper. but if you dont get a 360 seal on a rust spot you are inviting it back.
the rear quarter lower edge is much more accessible. that place can be repaired easily with a small sheet of the same gauge sheet and a small wire feed welder. great place to practice. I too am old fashioned as I only repair steel with steel and fiberglass with fiberglass.

We usually call that 'burnishing'..

Some oil in the pinch welds at the bottom of the door, and making sure the drains are open goes a long way.

Here’s pretty much the same deal done on a bullnose. Full disclosure In this case the truck needed to be fixed to be sold. It was in really good shape otherwise. Bought for parts but decided to make her a daily driver as she was too good to be scrapped. I tried to sell it with the rust holes but no one was able to see past these rust spots. Told them it would only cost about $150 and some labor to fix but no one believed me. A guy told me he would buy it if I fixed it so I did. I stand by this job, it will last but Welding body panels is definitely the “by the book” approach.


In this case the rust was caused by the “holes” on the bed rail getting filled with debris. For rust from salt there may be other considerations. The most important part was to plug the bed rail "holes" with some harbor freight anchor inserts (you can see them in the pics on the bed rail) after the job was done to prevent more debris from getting in which was done.

I used

- 3 layers of Bondo fiber glass cloth / resin first to form a skin. I didn't want to use "Bondo Fiber Glass" alone to cover up large hole (both inner and outer wells areas)
- cover up holes using the green “Bondo Fiber Glass”
- 60 grit sanding using flap disc to Sand above
- regular bondo just to contour. The most important part is to ensure the regular bondo never sees water ever. So the fiber glass system should completely encapsulate everything with no holes to be covered up with regular Bondo.
- sandable spray primer, sanded smooth to about 800 grit
- color matched rattle can paint, matched by a shop from gas cap. Job was too small to bring out the big guns but it would have been a cheaper overall to use a paint gun with 1 quart paint vs 2 rattle cans at $30 each :)
- just regular 1K clear coat. I normally use 2K clear coat on a larger paint job.

Are the bed body lines pretty much the same between the 80-86, and 87-92?  The reason I ask, Bullnose beds around here are hard to find and typically in worse shape than what I've got, and 87 and later beds turn up more frequently in much better shape - are they similar enough to just patch in the Bullnose squared wheel opening on the later bed?  Or is there enough difference that it won't work?

Sorry about the thread hijack, but I've been looking at patch panels this week myself for my rotted out bed.  

I already said, the only difference is the wheel opening...

Other than that, the gas filler cups behind the doors are different.
Because the filler tubes fill* through the middle and vent through the outside instead of the kind of troublesome bullnose ones that* keep clicking the pump off

Cross members, tail light openings, hinge cables and pivots, all the same.
But the 87 to 90 whatever...  tailgate is flat instead of deeply drawn like the 80 to 86 tailgate

LMC has got some panels, not sure if these would work

https://www.lmctruck.com/1980-96-ford/bed-tailgate/fd-1980-86-styleside-bed-patch-panels

I went to look and immediately got the door slammed by a drill down pop up. 🙄

Never again with them.  😡

I like TABCO panels.
Gary's body man said he'd never seen better. 💡

LMC just wanted to make sure that the guy that shared the link wasn't a dunce

I have nothing but curses.

See their vendor reviews.  🙄

Sorry to hear that.. The only part I really don't appreciate/feel comfortable about is using unique part numbers so its hard to cross-reference. The return policy is also rather strict.

If there is an alternative at about the same cost, I would any day choose Amazon/RockAuto/Summit.

The only time I use LMC is when its a one-of-a-kind availability situation. They are still the guys (aside from Bronco Graveyard, Dennis Carpenter) to carry a good inventory of Bullnose/Dentside parts.

Here is another thread, looks like NumberDummy isn't their biggest proponent

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1230466-does-lmc-truck-have-good-quality-parts-2.html

Hard to believe LMC is a "middle-man". They are at least the best "middle men" I've come across.

NumberDummy on FTE, and a the legends on this forum, I've been learning from you guys for many years so not trying to say anything to the contrary!! I am just the "Trust but verify" type