2 Body repair questions

The Dorman replacements come with drain holes (as do the rear spring mounts)

they do but I open them up a bit also. and I've drilled a few rear shackle hangers drains too. the hardest place for me to be thorough is the closed in point where the steering box mounts to the frame. being a blind spot with crush supports inside also makes it difficult. just because I have a hard time getting in there does not mean it's impossible for road salt. it needs doing or I might not sleep.  

I wonder if hitting that spot with some cavity wax before bolting up the steering box would help, by keeping any moisture from possibly getting trapped?

  I was going to start sanding the fiberglass repairs one of the POs did. When I looked closely, there are brown spots in the repairs. I am assuming that the PO didn't properly prepare the metal before glassing it. Your thoughts about the spots? If it is rust coming thru the repair, what's the best way to tackle it, sanding, Dremel tool with cutting wheel and cut the patch out? Replace panels aren't an option at this time, but I want to stop the rust before further damage.

I wasn't aware that it already had fiberglass repairs. If the PO started the fiber glass repair, why didn't he finish it ?

Unfortunately, all those brown areas are rust. You need to use a flap disc (40 or 60 grit) to expose bare metal in those areas. In the process some of the fiberglass will be damaged (Which is fine). You can fiber glass over that.

https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/grinding-cutting-wheels/flap-discs.html

viven44 wrote

I wasn't aware that it already had fiberglass repairs. If the PO started the fiber glass repair, why didn't he finish it ?

Unfortunately, all those brown areas are rust. You need to use a flap disc (40 or 60 grit) to expose bare metal in those areas. In the process some of the fiberglass will be damaged (Which is fine). You can fiber glass over that.

https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/grinding-cutting-wheels/flap-discs.html

If the PO started the fiber glass repair, why didn't he finish it? The truck has been in PA. since it was new. My neighbor thinks PA. has laws about rust. One of the POs may have just covered over the rust to pass state inspection which makes sense because the fiberglass has high and low spots like it was just slapped on. I appreciate the info on the flap discs. It's supposed the get cold for a few days, then I'll attack it. I'll have an "everything must go" job. I don't like doin; things twice so I may wait 'til after taxes and do the replacement panels. uess I have too much time on my hands.

At least some parts of PA requires an annual safety inspection.
You can't have any jagged holes in Delco, for sure.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

At least some parts of PA requires an annual safety inspection.
You can't have any jagged holes in Delco, for sure.

Thanks Jim.

Don't y'all have a 'guy' for state inspections

I am the safety inspector on my trucks . My 'guy' will pass just about anything that moves under its own power. From 2025 it doesn't even matter as Texas is getting rid of state inspections.

Just because you "can" doesn't mean you should....

Watch "Just Rolled In" on YouTube and realize the dangerous  you're sharing the roads with!

Your wife, kids, parents are out there with these crackheads rolling in their boxes, waiting for a gas tank to fall off in an accident and immolate everyone involved.

I have to tow these wrecks (every day!)

Jagged metal on a vehicle will slice you in half at 30...
Laugh all you want.
You're the problem not the solution.

I hear you.... and I only have the remotest idea when it comes to rust related safety issues up north. So thanks for grounding me.

I try to do my best to make my trucks as safe as possible. If it's an older truck, it's getting all new rubber and anything safety related gets addressed. That is ALL I CAN CONTROL. Down here, we don't deal with rust related safety issues. Fender rust... sure. Frame rust, No. Gas tank falling level rust ? Heck no.

I will not trust a safety inspection to tell me if I am good to go. I have never been failed on safety, but I still found gaps in safety that I addressed independently.

But not everyone is able to maintain their own car/truck so I do worry about what's going to happen when safety inspections are gone. I am hoping Texas will do a long term assessment of incidents before/after change and do whats right.

Speaking of safety, I was replacing rubber brake hoses on the Bronco this morning. Look at the cross section of the old hose!!

You already have rust starting to form. As long as there is even the slightest bit, it will continue to spread. The problem with only hitting it with a sander is that you are only treating the outside area visible. I guarantee the back sides of those patches are rusting even worse. It's insanely tough to get all the rust off the inside of a panel. I would cut the section away into the good metal. This will ensure you are not leaving any on the back side. Then I'd spray the back side well with either rust inhibitor/reformer. This will keep you from rusting from the inside out in the future. Good luck fiberglassing and filling the spot. In my opinion, you are going to spend way more time and money trying to tackle this using fiberglass than just getting a patch panel. Whatever you do, take your time. Doing it right now will save you a ton of headaches in the future.  

If you're going to strip all the fiberglass off I'd use Kleen-Strip concrete and metal prep $18 G @ the orange box. (Same or better than Ospho, IMHO.

But if you plan on metal wheel arch patches down the line, don't think twice about covering it with more fiberglass.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

If you're going to strip all the fiberglass off I'd use Kleen-Strip concrete and metal prep $18 G @ the orange box. (Same or better than Ospho, IMHO.

But if you plan on metal wheel arch patches down the line, don't think twice about covering it with more fiberglass.

I found a welder that's not sky high in pricing so I'm going with patch panels in the rear. I can't make up my mind if I want patch panels in the front or new fenders. I'm thinkin' replacing the fenders may be a big hassle with 39 yo hardware.

Have the welder put a few big holes in the top of each wheel well arch support so you can flush out the mud and water can drain/dry out.

The biggest hassle with front fenders are getting them lined up with the door, cowl and hood all at once.
My truck has Gordon brand fenders and it was tough making everything fit (but I'm no bodyman, as you can tell!  🤣🤣🤣)

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Have the welder put a few big holes in the top of each wheel well arch support so you can flush out the mud and water can drain/dry out.

The biggest hassle with front fenders are getting them lined up with the door, cowl and hood all at once.
My truck has Gordon brand fenders and it was tough making everything fit (but I'm no bodyman, as you can tell!  🤣🤣🤣)

Good info Jim, thanks!

For the front, since you can replace the whole panel that would be preferred. (I don't know what kind of challenges you deal with up north). Soak with PB blaster!!

my 2 cents. years ago, when I was only fixing up my old truck on the weekend as just taking care of it. I had one fender with a rust spot and the other where someone had backed into it. I was happy to find at the time that I could get a pr shipped to me instead of scrounging junkyards.  when I got them and got them painted and put on, I was not as happy. maybe imports, maybe not. I don't remember paying as much attention way back then. but the fit is just not as good. I may be the only one who can pick out the differences, but I always see them. as a result, I scour junkyards and accept more repair challenges now. to each his own as we all must chose our own tolerance due to funds, skill, and weigh the importance of the results.  the number one focus in restoring these trucks for me is rust remediation and prevention. the paint is only as good as what you put it on!  

viven44 wrote

For the front, since you can replace the whole panel that would be preferred. (I don't know what kind of challenges you deal with up north). Soak with PB blaster!!

Ok, new fenders are not an option. I'm not sure I understand "soak with PB Blaster"?

mat in tn wrote

my 2 cents. years ago, when I was only fixing up my old truck on the weekend as just taking care of it. I had one fender with a rust spot and the other where someone had backed into it. I was happy to find at the time that I could get a pr shipped to me instead of scrounging junkyards.  when I got them and got them painted and put on, I was not as happy. maybe imports, maybe not. I don't remember paying as much attention way back then. but the fit is just not as good. I may be the only one who can pick out the differences, but I always see them. as a result, I scour junkyards and accept more repair challenges now. to each his own as we all must chose our own tolerance due to funds, skill, and weigh the importance of the results.  the number one focus in restoring these trucks for me is rust remediation and prevention. the paint is only as good as what you put it on!

Great info, I appreciate it. Patch panels it is.