Stripped Water Pump Bolt

[mat in tn]

if that is a concern then I will just weld flange nuts to the back of the oe cover.

This is definitely one thing I am going to look into doing.

Based on all the great advice here, I cannot see a way other than grinding down the braze-on bolt, and re-welding a new nut in its place.

However, there is some, shall we say, pitting on the cover. I may just replace it. I hope to know more this week when I remove it.

as I said, I just did mine and yes it had some pitting where the gasket goes against the cover. I cleaned it thoroughly and wire brushed it as smooth as I could then buttered it well with rtv on the gasket too as I did not want any weeping from a bad fit. if it weeps it is getting a new cover.

[scbill]

All water pump bolts are the same thread, just different lengths.

That's why I like to make an outline and keep them in place as they come out.

I also apply anerobic PST on all my waterpump and timing case bolts to keep the threads from ever corroding.

(Yes, I know your 335 engine only has a steel plate and not the problematic mag/alu case of Windsors and 385's like mine)

When tapping a hole for heli-coil, or anywhere you don't want chips getting into places that are hard to clean them out, I used to fill the tap grooves with chassis grease so the chips will become imbedded in the grease and not go where not wanted.

[JimJam300]

From the link Cory posted it appears the bolt threads into the tin cover and not the block. (well inboard of the water inlet)

When I read this I realized I was somehow looking at the wrong bolt the whole time

[AmericanSavage]

In the bitter cold today, got the timing cover off. Suprisingly, to me anyway, the timing chain looks pretty good. Looks new. Color me shocked.

So, you can see the stripped part on the cover. There’s not a lot of real estate on this cover for the bolts to grab onto. When it warms up a bit (tomorrow I hope) I am going to check clearance, and see if a welded on nut will work.

While I was there today, I went ahead and changed out the fuel pump—the other one looked old, but seemed to work ok. Still, it is a cheap part to replace, and I had easy access, so why not?

[grumpin]

While I was there today, I went ahead and changed out the fuel pump—the other one looked old, but seemed to work ok. Still, it is a cheap part to replace, and I had easy access, so why not?

The way aftermarket parts fail now, I don’t think that way.

My son wanted me to replace the water pump when I did the head gaskets on the Xterra we now own. I said no, what if the new one only lasts 10,000 miles? The old oem pump could last 200,000 more.

 

[AmericanSavage]

While I was there today, I went ahead and changed out the fuel pump—the other one looked old, but seemed to work ok. Still, it is a cheap part to replace, and I had easy access, so why not?

The way aftermarket parts fail now, I don’t think that way.

My son wanted me to replace the water pump when I did the head gaskets on the Xterra we now own. I said no, what if the new one only lasts 10,000 miles? The old oem pump could last 200,000 more.

This is, of course, a real problem these days, so you are correct. The fuel pump I replaced was NOT OEM, though. I did not go for the cheapest—went with NAPA. We shall see.

I saved the old one for an emergency spare.

[Gary Lewis]

In the bitter cold today, got the timing cover off. Suprisingly, to me anyway, the timing chain looks pretty good. Looks new. Color me shocked.

So, you can see the stripped part on the cover. There’s not a lot of real estate on this cover for the bolts to grab onto. When it warms up a bit (tomorrow I hope) I am going to check clearance, and see if a welded on nut will work.

While I was there today, I went ahead and changed out the fuel pump—the other one looked old, but seemed to work ok. Still, it is a cheap part to replace, and I had easy access, so why not?

The chain does look good, but how much play is there in it? If I remember correctly Ford's spec's are 1/2" max.

[mat in tn]

The chain does look good, but how much play is there in it? If I remember correctly Ford's spec's are 1/2" max.

save this picture! what a perfect shot of how a fuel pump run off an eccentric works

[AmericanSavage]

The chain does look good, but how much play is there in it? If I remember correctly Ford's spec's are 1/2" max.

Hey Gary,

You are correct about the ½”

I checked the chain where it sits—I have not cranked the engine over. One side (pass) is tight. The other side (D side) has slack.

There is at least ¾” slop on that side.

Regardless of which, I decided over the weekend to get a roller set. I am here, and so, I am going to do it right while I have everything opened up. So, a few more days of waiting for reassembly.

Recs on Rollers anyone?

I see at Summit there is a Cloyes, Edelbrock, and Comp Cams. Looks like only Edel/Comp are made in USA.

 

[Gary Lewis]

The chain does look good, but how much play is there in it? If I remember correctly Ford's spec's are 1/2" max.

Hey Gary,

You are correct about the ½”

I checked the chain where it sits—I have not cranked the engine over. One side (pass) is tight. The other side (D side) has slack.

There is at least ¾” slop on that side.

Regardless of which, I decided over the weekend to get a roller set. I am here, and so, I am going to do it right while I have everything opened up. So, a few more days of waiting for reassembly.

Recs on Rollers anyone?

I see at Summit there is a Cloyes, Edelbrock, and Comp Cams. Looks like only Edel/Comp are made in USA.

I think replacing it is the right thing to do. And I like Cloyes, although I wouldn't mind an Eddie or Comp.