Stripped Water Pump Bolt

[AmericanSavage]

This is how I feel right now:

[85lebaront2]

First question, does it go into the block or just the timing cover? If just the timing cover if I remember correctly on the 335 series engines, it is a punched in portion that is threaded. You may be able to helicoil or other similar thread repair system that hole, but I would remove the timing cover so chips from the operation don't get into the oil pan. If it goes into the block, thread repair won't get chips into the oil pan if you are reasonably careful.

[Gary Lewis]

Several thoughts. First, are you sure that is the right sized bolt? No chance you have a smaller bolt where a larger one should go?

Second, when you cleaned out the threads in the block did it feel like the tap was loose? Like the threads are bad in the block?

If it feels like the threads in the block are bad, and you are pretty sure you have the right sized bolt, then I think I'd pull the water pump back off and get an up-close look at the threads in the block. And if they are bad then you'll have to come up with a plan. One might be to put a Heli-coil in the block.

[AmericanSavage]

First question, does it go into the block or just the timing cover? If just the timing cover if I remember correctly on the 335 series engines, it is a punched in portion that is threaded. You may be able to helicoil or other similar thread repair system that hole, but I would remove the timing cover so chips from the operation don't get into the oil pan. If it goes into the block, thread repair won't get chips into the oil pan if you are reasonably careful.

It LOOKS like it goes through the timing cover, and into the block.

It LOOKS like it is also one of those that has not a lot of real estate, and is open to the timing chain area behind it—that is, there is an open space. I need to make sure with a schematic if anyone has one. I will also try to find.

There is only one bolt that goes into the timing cover only—the very top.

[AmericanSavage]

Several thoughts. First, are you sure that is the right sized bolt? No chance you have a smaller bolt where a larger one should go?

Second, when you cleaned out the threads in the block did it feel like the tap was loose? Like the threads are bad in the block?

If it feels like the threads in the block are bad, and you are pretty sure you have the right sized bolt, then I think I'd pull the water pump back off and get an up-close look at the threads in the block. And if they are bad then you'll have to come up with a plan. One might be to put a Heli-coil in the block.

Hey Gary—ALL the bolts are 5/16 (½ inch wrench or sockets on the hex), except for the power steering pump bracket.

BTW, Blue top went in today easy. Will post in my thread.

I was hoping to avoid taking off the pulley and harmonic balancer…ugh. The Divine has other plans for me on this project.

Ordering the kit for the timing cover tonight. UGH!

What in the world is a Heli coil? I need to research this!

Another thought—are there stud bolts that, say, might go one step higher, and then decrease to 5/16 for a nut? That would only work if this is a through and through hole into the timing chain area, which I think it might be.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Several thoughts. First, are you sure that is the right sized bolt? No chance you have a smaller bolt where a larger one should go?

Second, when you cleaned out the threads in the block did it feel like the tap was loose? Like the threads are bad in the block?

If it feels like the threads in the block are bad, and you are pretty sure you have the right sized bolt, then I think I'd pull the water pump back off and get an up-close look at the threads in the block. And if they are bad then you'll have to come up with a plan. One might be to put a Heli-coil in the block.

Hey Gary—ALL the bolts are 5/16 (½ inch wrench or sockets on the hex), except for the power steering pump bracket.

BTW, Blue top went in today easy. Will post in my thread.

I was hoping to avoid taking off the pulley and harmonic balancer…ugh. The Divine has other plans for me on this project.

Ordering the kit for the timing cover tonight. UGH!

What in the world is a Heli coil? I need to research this!

Another thought—are there stud bolts that, say, might go one step higher, and then decrease to 5/16 for a nut? That would only work if this is a through and through hole into the timing chain area, which I think it might be.

Glad the Bluetop went in well.

Ok, so all of the bolts are 5/16" and, I assume, have good threads. That being the case, it sounds like the threads in the block are the problem.

As for Heli-Coils, they are thread repair pieces. You drill out the hole, tap it with a special tap, and then thread the coil in.

[Machspeed]

Glad the Bluetop went in well.

Ok, so all of the bolts are 5/16" and, I assume, have good threads. That being the case, it sounds like the threads in the block are the problem.

As for Heli-Coils, they are thread repair pieces. You drill out the hole, tap it with a special tap, and then thread the coil in.

It's hard to tell really but that particular bolt looks big to me. When I did mine, I remember one particular bolt giving me all kinds of grief. Turned out, the bolt I was using was the wrong size. Don't remember which bolt hole that was though. I'd double check thread size and even try a smaller course thread bolt in there before pulling it.

If the bolt hole is stripped out in the timing chain cover, a heli-coil is indeed the way to go.

Good luck!

[JimJam300]

Here is a 400 I found on the web. You might be able to guestimate where the bolt lives. To me it looks like it goes through the timing cover and into the block.

Cover the front of your engine with saran wrap before you start drilling. Additionally a magnet taped to the outside of a plastic bag can catch all the metal shavings.

[mat in tn]

It's hard to tell really but that particular bolt looks big to me. When I did mine, I remember one particular bolt giving me all kinds of grief. Turned out, the bolt I was using was the wrong size. Don't remember which bolt hole that was though. I'd double check thread size and even try a smaller course thread bolt in there before pulling it.

If the bolt hole is stripped out in the timing chain cover, a heli-coil is indeed the way to go.

Good luck!

caution! I just did this on my truck three weeks ago. replaced the water pump, timing chain and I also did the crank bearings. the timing cover is nothing more than a steel plate on this engine and the threaded hole was made by machine punching through then tapped. there is not much there when compared to the block and I notice immediately that this would require a different feel or torque then the bolts going to the block. the chain is right behind it. you cannot go very deep. and a helicoil is best if it has a back shoulder to set against. setting the depth so to speak. it would be very easy to thread it on through into the engine and have it fall into the pan. it would certainly be best done with the plate on a bench but thats not always an option, so be careful. certainly, remove the pump to continue.

[Rembrant]

If you're not comfortable with a Heli-Coil repair, you can always buy a new timing cover. They're reasonably priced imho.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdm-pce265-1052?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAzeSdBhC4ARIsACj36uEhGcdSwihqnOIK257Lso9E-z09BENmB6RYUDqRR8AuABqAjlkTdXQaAhhrEALw_wcB

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ses-5-65-04-201

Going by your picture, it certainly looks like one of the lower timing cover bolts.

I've used Keenserts for thread repair in the past and I really like these, but I have only used them in aluminum, not steel. A company I used to work for used them a lot on new aluminum parts as well.