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AOD to 4r70w swap in an 86 Bronco


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Thanks, Gary! And yeah, they really screwed up. I have a lot of car-enthusiast friends who now have Monster on their blacklist.

I got all the wiring hooked up in the last couple days, and was able to get the Bronco running and driving. I tested it on the road and it went up to like 4000rpm before it would shift out of first. I brought it back home and loaded the normal "profile" from US Shift and redid the setup procedure (TPS, tire size and axle ratio) and tested it again and it was perfect.

Transmission Depot told me to baby it for the first 500 miles of use. No towing or pedal-to-the-metal business. Today I drove it around town with my fiancee and it behaved very well. I do notice that a tiny tap of the pedal is enough to get it going forward. I think the combination of a 20-years-newer transmission and a modern controller make it a totally different ride.

Another thing to note is that the Quick4 controller will work with just the TPS input, but it feels a lot better when I hooked up the tach signal as well. The Pro-flo 4 engine ECU has a special 12v square-wave output wire for tach signal, and the Quick4 can hook right to that with not modification or resistors. The Quick4 can also just be hooked to the Negative coil wire, but it needs a special resistor in-line to even out the noise. US Shift supplies the resistor with the Quick4.

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I got all the wiring hooked up in the last couple days, and was able to get the Bronco running and driving. I tested it on the road and it went up to like 4000rpm before it would shift out of first. I brought it back home and loaded the normal "profile" from US Shift and redid the setup procedure (TPS, tire size and axle ratio) and tested it again and it was perfect.

Transmission Depot told me to baby it for the first 500 miles of use. No towing or pedal-to-the-metal business. Today I drove it around town with my fiancee and it behaved very well. I do notice that a tiny tap of the pedal is enough to get it going forward. I think the combination of a 20-years-newer transmission and a modern controller make it a totally different ride.

Another thing to note is that the Quick4 controller will work with just the TPS input, but it feels a lot better when I hooked up the tach signal as well. The Pro-flo 4 engine ECU has a special 12v square-wave output wire for tach signal, and the Quick4 can hook right to that with not modification or resistors. The Quick4 can also just be hooked to the Negative coil wire, but it needs a special resistor in-line to even out the noise. US Shift supplies the resistor with the Quick4.

Congrat's!!! Good to know! :nabble_anim_claps:

I'll be curious to see a report after a bit on how you like the EFI/E4OD combo and what kind of MPG you get.

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I got all the wiring hooked up in the last couple days, and was able to get the Bronco running and driving. I tested it on the road and it went up to like 4000rpm before it would shift out of first. I brought it back home and loaded the normal "profile" from US Shift and redid the setup procedure (TPS, tire size and axle ratio) and tested it again and it was perfect.

Another thing to note is that the Quick4 controller will work with just the TPS input, but it feels a lot better when I hooked up the tach signal as well. The Pro-flo 4 engine ECU has a special 12v square-wave output wire for tach signal, and the Quick4 can hook right to that with not modification or resistors. The Quick4 can also just be hooked to the Negative coil wire, but it needs a special resistor in-line to even out the noise. US Shift supplies the resistor with the Quick4.

This is great news and information, thank you! I'll be wiring up the rest of my Quick4 this weekend. All of the connections to the transmission have been completed, but I need to do the TPS and input power, etc. Interesting on the tach...I'll be coming directly off the coil, but I see the resistors came with the kit also.

Thanks so much for sharing this info.

 

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Congrat's!!! Good to know! :nabble_anim_claps:

I'll be curious to see a report after a bit on how you like the EFI/E4OD combo and what kind of MPG you get.

Gary, I gathered MPG data with Ford EFI/AOD, Then a similar trip with Edelbrock EFI/AOD. Now, I'm hoping to do another trip after I get all the kinks worked out and see the best improvement yet with Edelbrock EFI/4r70w!

Mat, I am looking forward to daily driving this thing. I lost months of Bronco Time to the Monster debacle.

Rembrant, if there's anything specific that I haven't mentioned that you want to know, hit me up.

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Rembrant, if there's anything specific that I haven't mentioned that you want to know, hit me up.

You've more or less already answered all of my questions. I'm starting up a newly rebuilt engine here, and a used 4R70W that I installed. I was wondering what I needed to do with the trans/controller before starting the engine, and it sounds like the wise thing to do is to go through the setup. This truck is just a low rpm cruiser, so all I need is the stock trans map. That will be fine for me.

I guess I'll do the TPS setup, and then after I get it started and warmed up I'll probably have to reset the TPS again after I finish tuning the carb and setting the idle?

 

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Rembrant, if there's anything specific that I haven't mentioned that you want to know, hit me up.

You've more or less already answered all of my questions. I'm starting up a newly rebuilt engine here, and a used 4R70W that I installed. I was wondering what I needed to do with the trans/controller before starting the engine, and it sounds like the wise thing to do is to go through the setup. This truck is just a low rpm cruiser, so all I need is the stock trans map. That will be fine for me.

I guess I'll do the TPS setup, and then after I get it started and warmed up I'll probably have to reset the TPS again after I finish tuning the carb and setting the idle?

Yeah, resetting it after your final carb adjustment seems to make sense since your idle tps position will probably change.

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Yeah, resetting it after your final carb adjustment seems to make sense since your idle tps position will probably change.

This thread has been really interesting, my Bronco had a C6. I had it changed for an AOD and I am not happy with how it was done. One part that confuses me is the brace at the back seems to get in the way of the oil pan bolts.

When you put your 4r70w in, did you have to move the brace?

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This thread has been really interesting, my Bronco had a C6. I had it changed for an AOD and I am not happy with how it was done. One part that confuses me is the brace at the back seems to get in the way of the oil pan bolts.

When you put your 4r70w in, did you have to move the brace?

When I had my AOD, the crossmember did block some access to the rear pan bolts. The 4r70w is 7/8" longer (the added length is in the bell housing), which pushes it back and further obscures the rear pan bolts. Luckily there are no modifications needed to fit the 4r70w, because the crossmember has slots instead of holes.

I was considering making my own crossmember anyway, because of how much of a PITA it is to get the stock one out, but I am hoping that I don't have to take it out again for a very long time now.

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When I had my AOD, the crossmember did block some access to the rear pan bolts. The 4r70w is 7/8" longer (the added length is in the bell housing), which pushes it back and further obscures the rear pan bolts. Luckily there are no modifications needed to fit the 4r70w, because the crossmember has slots instead of holes.

I was considering making my own crossmember anyway, because of how much of a PITA it is to get the stock one out, but I am hoping that I don't have to take it out again for a very long time now.

Thank you!

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