Gary Lewis Posted February 15, 2023 Share Posted February 15, 2023 LOL! The new transmission, or my dispute strategy? Both! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted February 17, 2023 Share Posted February 17, 2023 Both! Now you guys know why I build my own transmissions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFETruck Posted February 22, 2023 Share Posted February 22, 2023 LOL! The new transmission, or my dispute strategy? Wow, I've looked at Monsters products before and thought it may have been a viable option in the future if the need arose but I'm glad my dad went through automatic transmission school and taught me enough about them to know how to rebuild automatic transmissions myself. I think we all now know why they call themselves Monster transmission. They are monsters to deal with apparently. I don't think I'll ever buy anything from them after reading this thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted February 22, 2023 Share Posted February 22, 2023 Two updates: 1. I got my new transmission from Transmission Depot on Monday. It looks good and I'll be installing it this week. 2. I decided to keep fighting Monster. Even though the dispute said "resolved" the credit card company said that I could reopen the dispute if I had proof that I had sent the transmission back and it was accepted, OR if I sent it back and it was rejected. Both of those options seemed to involve me paying a bunch of money to send it back. Monster had previously sent their terms of service to the credit card company for the exculpatory parts, so I was able to point to the parts that say "if you send us something without prior arrangement, we'll send it back at your expense" and the part where it says "no returns will be accepted without an RMA number." both of those indicate that they would not accept the return if it were sent to them, so on a phone call with the bank I got them to accept proof that I OFFERED to send it back and they rejected it. I told them about Monster's "we will not talk to you if you have an open dispute against us" policy, and they said that an offer to return it that went unanswered for a few days is enough to count as a rejection of the return. The first problem is that I don't have proof of my over-the-phone rejected offers to return it and I need something in writing. The second problem is that Monster has a policy where they WILL NOT talk to you if there is an open dispute. The third problem is that they don't want anything in writing, so they will not give you an email address and only want to do things over the phone. So to take care of those problems, I called from a number that was not on their records, said I was hard of hearing and need to communicate through TTY or email, and asked for an email address. (The Americans with Disabilities Act makes this mandatory, and I was banking on them not having a TTY machine.) They wouldn't give me an email address over the phone, but said that if I gave them my email, they would email me and I could respond to that. Just in case they had my email on file as a "do not engage!", I gave them my second email address that is not in their system and we hung up. Here's our email exchange: ME: Hi, *****. Thanks for your quick reply to my call. I have been going back and forth with Monster and our banks for a while now on this issue. I had talked with some folks there at Monster Transmission and those conversations ultimately proved unfruitful. I had opened a case with my credit card to try to arbitrate the dispute that way. While the case showed as "open," I was told that Monster Transmission would not talk to me via phone or email. Now that the dispute no longer shows as "open," I would like to resume talking to Monster Transmission. I currently have a broken transmission that I cannot use and I would like to return it to Monster. Monster Transmission's terms of service state on page 2 paragraph 2: "Do not return the merchandise to Monster Transmission unless prior arrangements have been made. Products returned without prior authorization from MTP will be refused and returned at the client’s expense." and on page 6 paragraph 1: "All returns must be pre-authorized by MTP and accompanied by a RMA number." I want to make sure that everything is by the book, and that I have the "prior arrangements" and/or an RMA number so that I can send it back. Also, Monster Transmission still has my core transmission that I sent months ago, and I still have not received my core charge of $350 back to my account. My order number is ********* Please advise on the next steps. Thanks again, and have a great day! THEM: Good Afternoon, The chargeback is still under review with the bank. Once it clears on our end we will then reach back out to you. ME: Hi, *****. Thanks for your response. Does this mean that Monster Transmission will not accept the return of the transmission? Thank you There was no response after that for a week, so I made it into a PDF and sent it to the bank/CC company. I think because of the way I did things I: Got it in writing, used their own policy against them, got them to deny a return TWICE, and got them to confirm that they have a "no contact while dispute is open" policy. Also, Monster, in their reply to my initial dispute said that their experts determined that the crack could not have existed before I got the transmission. So I got a signed report from a Failure Analysis Metallurgist saying that the one side of the crack was very old and existed prior to the center portion of the crack. And after he looked at the photos, he also said that the OTHER end of the crack that was not oxidized was actually a bit older too, based on the smoothness of the break, compared to the rough texture of the newest part. Turns out it was just a really fatigued and flawed case. So with all that, I think I have a good case to win the second round of the dispute, and I am feeling hopeful about it again. If I win this round, and Monster says they don't agree with the "ruling," then the next and last step in the bank/credit card process is arbitration. This is the step I am really hoping for, because this is when I will be able to negotiate directly with Monster and try to send the transmission back while the money is in my account. If I can do that, they have no more recourse and I think my interaction with them is done forever. IF they just accept the ruling of this, then I have the money AND the transmission and they will just send me to collections and I have another fight on my hands. Anyway, I think that it's going fairly well, and I'll keep you updated on the progress of the upgrade! Hey Nickelplate, I'm sure you mentioned it earlier, but you're using a US Shift Quick4 controller to run that 4R70W aren't you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickelplate Posted February 23, 2023 Author Share Posted February 23, 2023 Hey Nickelplate, I'm sure you mentioned it earlier, but you're using a US Shift Quick4 controller to run that 4R70W aren't you? Yeah, FordFETruck, I would definitely not recommend them! LOL. Everything they do is just marketing and NOT building quality transmissions (unless it's required for marketing, like when they deal with TV shows or big YouTubers.) Yeah, Rembrant, I am. I am actually struggling right now with where I want to mount it in the car. The Edelbrock Pro-Flow ECU is already mounted in the stock ECU location and there is just not any more room for hiding computers under the dash! Especially not a computer you need to take out and press a button on periodically. I may just end up having to sacrifice some of the meager glove box space for this one. I measured the glove box and the Q4 unit does not fit vertically. It's gonna be annoying. And for an update to the thread: I got the transmission installed and almost everything connected up. I connected the old neutral safety switch wiring to the new Range Sensor, got the transmission wiring done and wrapped. The wiring instructions from US Shift are really good and comprehensive, so it was a breeze. What I have left to do: I need to fully seat the dipstick tube. The dipstick tube from the AOD will fit the 4r70w, and when they are inserted into the transmission, they measure the same fluid levels in the pan. So they are interchangeable, but I just like how the Bronco one fits in the engine compartment better. When I was checking over everything, I noticed that the top o-ring was not fully pushed in. Just something to look for. I need to build my new cooling hoses. I have all the AN fittings and PTFE braided hose ready, I just need to find a good routing for them that does not take them too close to the catalytic converter, or touch any of the exhaust. I need to route the wiring through the firewall to the final location of the trans controller. I'll probably agonize over this a bit. I really want everything to look like a mostly-original bronco, like it was when I was driving it in High School in the 90's, so I don't want little computers hanging around all over the place. And I am also concerned about it getting too hot in some locations or getting kicked by me or a passenger. I'll be sure to post some pics soon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted February 23, 2023 Share Posted February 23, 2023 Yeah, Rembrant, I am. I am actually struggling right now with where I want to mount it in the car. The Edelbrock Pro-Flow ECU is already mounted in the stock ECU location and there is just not any more room for hiding computers under the dash! Especially not a computer you need to take out and press a button on periodically. I may just end up having to sacrifice some of the meager glove box space for this one. I measured the glove box and the Q4 unit does not fit vertically. It's gonna be annoying. I need to route the wiring through the firewall to the final location of the trans controller. I'll probably agonize over this a bit. I really want everything to look like a mostly-original bronco, like it was when I was driving it in High School in the 90's, so I don't want little computers hanging around all over the place. And I am also concerned about it getting too hot in some locations or getting kicked by me or a passenger. I also agonized over where to install the Quick4 controller in my '52, with even less real estate than a Bullnose interior/dash/firewall. I did end up installing it on the interior firewall, sort of behind the dash...it's a nice little unit, but it is not ideal for mounting in a visual area with the 50 wires hanging out of it. In hindsight, I wish I had installed it somewhere I could see it, but I'm trying to keep the '52 interior at least somewhat stock in appearance. FYI, I reached out to US Shift a couple days ago asking if there was any way to use a remote screen, and they replied and said they are currently in design/development of just such a device and it should be available later in 2023. I will likely just drive around with my laptop for a while so I can see what gear I'm in, and also view the transmission temperature. Once I have everything set up and all the bugs worked out, I'll probably be OK without being able to see the display (but I still kinda wish that I could). I'll be following your thread to see how you make out with this. My Quick4 is all installed and wired up with the trans, but I still have to finish wiring the truck which includes the input wiring of the Quick4 (like the TPS, power supply, etc). Did your Quick4 come with the correct 4R70W map(s) already loaded up and ready to go? My intent is to run mine with whatever stock (smoothest shifting) map is available, and I bought a B&M shift handle with a button so I can use it to disengage O/D if need be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickelplate Posted February 23, 2023 Author Share Posted February 23, 2023 Yeah, Rembrant, I am. I am actually struggling right now with where I want to mount it in the car. The Edelbrock Pro-Flow ECU is already mounted in the stock ECU location and there is just not any more room for hiding computers under the dash! Especially not a computer you need to take out and press a button on periodically. I may just end up having to sacrifice some of the meager glove box space for this one. I measured the glove box and the Q4 unit does not fit vertically. It's gonna be annoying. I need to route the wiring through the firewall to the final location of the trans controller. I'll probably agonize over this a bit. I really want everything to look like a mostly-original bronco, like it was when I was driving it in High School in the 90's, so I don't want little computers hanging around all over the place. And I am also concerned about it getting too hot in some locations or getting kicked by me or a passenger. I also agonized over where to install the Quick4 controller in my '52, with even less real estate than a Bullnose interior/dash/firewall. I did end up installing it on the interior firewall, sort of behind the dash...it's a nice little unit, but it is not ideal for mounting in a visual area with the 50 wires hanging out of it. In hindsight, I wish I had installed it somewhere I could see it, but I'm trying to keep the '52 interior at least somewhat stock in appearance. FYI, I reached out to US Shift a couple days ago asking if there was any way to use a remote screen, and they replied and said they are currently in design/development of just such a device and it should be available later in 2023. I will likely just drive around with my laptop for a while so I can see what gear I'm in, and also view the transmission temperature. Once I have everything set up and all the bugs worked out, I'll probably be OK without being able to see the display (but I still kinda wish that I could). I'll be following your thread to see how you make out with this. My Quick4 is all installed and wired up with the trans, but I still have to finish wiring the truck which includes the input wiring of the Quick4 (like the TPS, power supply, etc). Did your Quick4 come with the correct 4R70W map(s) already loaded up and ready to go? My intent is to run mine with whatever stock (smoothest shifting) map is available, and I bought a B&M shift handle with a button so I can use it to disengage O/D if need be. I haven't even switched mine on yet, so I'm not sure about the maps. They did say they loaded it because I gave them all the info ahead of time, but I have not had time to check. I was thinking of putting a push button on the underside of the little storage space to the right of the steering column for the od on/off. And my "emissions" light in this truck was never connected to anything, so I just extended some wiring from that and it will be the "OD on/off" indicator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gsmblue Posted February 25, 2023 Share Posted February 25, 2023 I haven't even switched mine on yet, so I'm not sure about the maps. They did say they loaded it because I gave them all the info ahead of time, but I have not had time to check. I was thinking of putting a push button on the underside of the little storage space to the right of the steering column for the od on/off. And my "emissions" light in this truck was never connected to anything, so I just extended some wiring from that and it will be the "OD on/off" indicator. Sorry if you mentioned this already, what did you need to to to fit the 4r70w in the place of the aod? I understand that a controller is needed. My 82 bronco had a c6. I had it swapped for an aod that has never worked so i am thinking of going down the 4t70w path like you and trying to see how much work it would be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted February 25, 2023 Share Posted February 25, 2023 Sorry if you mentioned this already, what did you need to to to fit the 4r70w in the place of the aod? I understand that a controller is needed. My 82 bronco had a c6. I had it swapped for an aod that has never worked so i am thinking of going down the 4t70w path like you and trying to see how much work it would be. Nickleplate with know for sure on the 4x4, but the 4R70W should be all dimensionally the same as the earlier AOD. Mechanically, it should be a direct swap, but you'll need controller and a TPS for the carb. The 4R70W, at least the SBF version, is actually an AODE-W. So it's an AOD plus the "E" for electronic, "-W" for wide ratio. The names are used interchangeably in the later 90's depending on who you're talking to. Mine is a 1996 2wd version, and while it was sold as a 4R70W, it actually says AODE-W on the metal tag on the side of it. According to some people, the trans didn't officially become a 4R70W until they put the mod motor bellhousings on them for the 4.6L that replaced the 5.0L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickelplate Posted February 25, 2023 Author Share Posted February 25, 2023 Sorry if you mentioned this already, what did you need to to to fit the 4r70w in the place of the aod? I understand that a controller is needed. My 82 bronco had a c6. I had it swapped for an aod that has never worked so i am thinking of going down the 4t70w path like you and trying to see how much work it would be. Heya! The 4r70w is actually 7/8" of an inch LONGER than the AOD. The crossmember has slots in it that are about 2/5" to 3" long so there are really no changes needed in that respect. I haven't seen if any changes are necessary with the driveshafts or not, yet, but they do fit. The front one is just stretched 7/8" longer than normal, and the back one is compressed to 7/8" shorter. The bronco AOD dipstick tube and the 4r70w dipstick tube will measure the exact same fluid level when installed, BUT the length increase of the 4r70w is in the bell housing, which means that the dipstick tube from the AOD's mounting bolt hole will be in the wrong place when it's installed. You will either need to modify your old dipstick tube mounting point, or use one from an auto that had a 4r70w stock. I figured this out by breaking my old dipstick tube and ended up using the newer one to fix it. The shifting linkage will be different. The throw of the lever is different, so I had to take half of my AOD lever and half of the 4r70w one and weld them together. The 4r70w is also clocked differently than the AOD one was, but the linkage between there and the steering column has a few inches of adjustment that can account for this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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