Holley Choke Cap Install - Dumb Question

[Rembrant]

Hi Guys,

I had to order a new choke cap for my Summit carb (aka Holley 4010? Autolite 4100?). The one that came with it was broken (or I broke it, I'm not sure). Anyway, dumb question...when installing the cap, which way do you rotate it to get it into the adjustment range position? CW, or CCW? I assume CCW, but wanted to be certain so I don't screw it up. CCW opens the spring, and CW tightens it.

I'm more of an EFI guy historically, and the few carbs I have had all worked pretty well, so I haven't had to work on them much.

 

[Gary Lewis]

You want the spring to capture the choke lever in the "cup" on the end of the spring and then you turn the cap in the direction that closes the choke when the throttle is open.

Does that make sense?

[Rembrant]

You want the spring to capture the choke lever in the "cup" on the end of the spring and then you turn the cap in the direction that closes the choke when the throttle is open.

Does that make sense?

I got it. Thanks Gary. CCW was correct. In hindsight it was kind of a dumb question, but I was trying to get it all assembled correctly with the TPS and it works great now. New choke is on and I fixed the binding/rubbing linkage. Action is smooth now throughout throttle movement. I can move on to other things now!

[Gary Lewis]

You want the spring to capture the choke lever in the "cup" on the end of the spring and then you turn the cap in the direction that closes the choke when the throttle is open.

Does that make sense?

I got it. Thanks Gary. CCW was correct. In hindsight it was kind of a dumb question, but I was trying to get it all assembled correctly with the TPS and it works great now. New choke is on and I fixed the binding/rubbing linkage. Action is smooth now throughout throttle movement. I can move on to other things now!

Glad it works.

[Pete Whitstone]

You want the spring to capture the choke lever in the "cup" on the end of the spring and then you turn the cap in the direction that closes the choke when the throttle is open.

Does that make sense?

I got it. Thanks Gary. CCW was correct. In hindsight it was kind of a dumb question, but I was trying to get it all assembled correctly with the TPS and it works great now. New choke is on and I fixed the binding/rubbing linkage. Action is smooth now throughout throttle movement. I can move on to other things now!

I have a similar carb, and the same TPS. Mine controls an aftermarket transmission computer. What is yours for?

[Rembrant]

I have a similar carb, and the same TPS. Mine controls an aftermarket transmission computer. What is yours for?

Same thing, it's for a Quick4 Transmission controller.

https://www.usshift.com/usq4.shtml

I installed an AODE-W from a 1996 F150.

I hope you're going to tell me it works well? LOL. Mine won't be running for a few months yet.

PS: Carb is a Summit 500CFM.

 

[Pete Whitstone]

I have a similar carb, and the same TPS. Mine controls an aftermarket transmission computer. What is yours for?

Same thing, it's for a Quick4 Transmission controller.

https://www.usshift.com/usq4.shtml

I installed an AODE-W from a 1996 F150.

I hope you're going to tell me it works well? LOL. Mine won't be running for a few months yet.

PS: Carb is a Summit 500CFM.

I have the Quick 2, but yeah, it works great. The combination of the shift kit hardware I put in, plus the stock map on the Quick 2, made for some punch-in-the-back shifts, especially the 1-2 shift. But that was (somewhat) easy to dial back in the software.

I say "somewhat" because I do have one problem/complaint that I haven't been able to resolve yet - but I haven't tried very hard. That is that I can't get the tuning software on my PC to talk to the Quick 2 controller. They seem to handshake, but then I can't upload or download maps. That was how I initially tried to fix the shift firmness, by altering the map on the PC and downloading it. Eventually I discovered you could crudely alter shift firmness in the menu of the Quick 2 itself, so I did that.

[Rembrant]

I have the Quick 2, but yeah, it works great. The combination of the shift kit hardware I put in, plus the stock map on the Quick 2, made for some punch-in-the-back shifts, especially the 1-2 shift. But that was (somewhat) easy to dial back in the software.

I say "somewhat" because I do have one problem/complaint that I haven't been able to resolve yet - but I haven't tried very hard. That is that I can't get the tuning software on my PC to talk to the Quick 2 controller. They seem to handshake, but then I can't upload or download maps. That was how I initially tried to fix the shift firmness, by altering the map on the PC and downloading it. Eventually I discovered you could crudely alter shift firmness in the menu of the Quick 2 itself, so I did that.

My Quick4 is still in the box, so I haven't even installed it yet let alone play with it at all. I have a completely stock AODE-W installed in the truck, so I'm hoping it shifts as smooth as stock, assuming the Quick4 comes with a stock map? I'm undecided if I will install an OD interrupt switch, but it is on my tentative to do list.

My brother in law has a Quick4 installed in a 1930 Ford hotrod-ish car and he has had a tough time getting it to work properly, but it's not the Quick4's fault. He has a rather extreme mishmash of engine/trans/diff combo that was never designed to work well together, so he's spent a lot of hours tuning it to work the way he wants it to. Since mine is a stock drivetrain the way it came originally (sort of), I'm hoping for stock-ish performance and smoothness. I have a 5.0/AODE-W/3.55 diff.

I don't even know where to install the Quick4 yet, but I guess it will go under the dash somewhere.

[Pete Whitstone]

My Quick4 is still in the box, so I haven't even installed it yet let alone play with it at all. I have a completely stock AODE-W installed in the truck, so I'm hoping it shifts as smooth as stock, assuming the Quick4 comes with a stock map? I'm undecided if I will install an OD interrupt switch, but it is on my tentative to do list.

My brother in law has a Quick4 installed in a 1930 Ford hotrod-ish car and he has had a tough time getting it to work properly, but it's not the Quick4's fault. He has a rather extreme mishmash of engine/trans/diff combo that was never designed to work well together, so he's spent a lot of hours tuning it to work the way he wants it to. Since mine is a stock drivetrain the way it came originally (sort of), I'm hoping for stock-ish performance and smoothness. I have a 5.0/AODE-W/3.55 diff.

I don't even know where to install the Quick4 yet, but I guess it will go under the dash somewhere.

They do supply stock maps with the unit. I am not sure they duplicate the factory stuff 100%, but I imagine they are pretty close.

It is on my to-do list to put in an O/D switch. The unit can be configured through the PC software to make the main knob on it act as the O/D switch with a single button push, so you don't actually need an external switch. However, that has to be configured through the PC software, it is not the default setting. I have not found a way to configure that through the setup menus on the unit itself.

I put mine in that little area on the left in the glovebox.