New Distributor-Initial Timing Help

[Gary Lewis]

Lesson Learned

Don't let this happen to you:

It looked like a great place to store the timing light while I made the necessary adjustment. However between the Radiator support and the Battery was the MAIN issue all along, It kept hitting the advance button on the light and when I picked it up again, viola!, timing appeared to have changed.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DAiCz2KUTEcnyMZMF2QmuTA50mVDN73HJ7jspms8S0VKEvhoFQYAvsmPmFeqXWqpWfwJA9nxCyWmYtWCxeDoiPpaVFrvlMa5O_jENmV6T4JWjoqImNGXvNrUjikEStOaNfyo5z0Dx6A=w600-h315-p-k

So the timing is fine, it was just that the advance button was pushed? Problem solved, there was no problem?

[Bulletproof250]

So the timing is fine, it was just that the advance button was pushed? Problem solved, there was no problem?

That's correct Gary,

The problem in the timing, was the interface of the timing light and the person operating it!

I've got the truck running fantastic, but I'm open to any tips on adjusting the Vac advance.

 

[Gary Lewis]

That's correct Gary,

The problem in the timing, was the interface of the timing light and the person operating it! http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/laughing-25-x-25_orig.gif

I've got the truck running fantastic, but I'm open to any tips on adjusting the Vac advance.

Vacuum advance is the last timing element to adjust. First is initial, and it is usually the factory setting plus 2 - 4 degrees. Then mechanical/centrifugal, and it is frequently left stock - especially given the trouble it is to get to the springs on a Ford dizzy. Then vacuum.

On that, I use the very small Allen wrench (3/32") to move the stop to allow more advance until I get pinging with part throttle in a high gear for the situation. And then I take some advance out until the pinging stops. Said another way, you need a relatively high gear to put a load on the engine at fairly low RPM, like maybe 1500 - 2000. But you need to only be giving it part throttle so the vacuum stays high and the advance comes in.

But the Crane instructions (Documentation/Electrical/Ignition and then the Instructions tab and then the Crane Cam Instructions tab) do a better job of explaining:

23. Check for full clockwise adjustment and connect the adjustable vacuum advance unit to the manifold vacuum source. (FIG. 17)

24. Test-drive the vehicle in the city and on the highway while listen­ing for audible spark knock under heavy load and part throttle. If spark knock occurs under part throttle conditions, a change in the vacuum advance curve is needed. This adjustment is made by inserting the 3/32” alien wrench into the vacuum advance unit and turning the adjuster counterclockwise two turns at a time, testing the vehicle after each change, until part throttle spark knock is eliminated.

[Bulletproof250]

Vacuum advance is the last timing element to adjust. First is initial, and it is usually the factory setting plus 2 - 4 degrees. Then mechanical/centrifugal, and it is frequently left stock - especially given the trouble it is to get to the springs on a Ford dizzy. Then vacuum.

On that, I use the very small Allen wrench (3/32") to move the stop to allow more advance until I get pinging with part throttle in a high gear for the situation. And then I take some advance out until the pinging stops. Said another way, you need a relatively high gear to put a load on the engine at fairly low RPM, like maybe 1500 - 2000. But you need to only be giving it part throttle so the vacuum stays high and the advance comes in.

But the Crane instructions (Documentation/Electrical/Ignition and then the Instructions tab and then the Crane Cam Instructions tab) do a better job of explaining:

23. Check for full clockwise adjustment and connect the adjustable vacuum advance unit to the manifold vacuum source. (FIG. 17)

24. Test-drive the vehicle in the city and on the highway while listen­ing for audible spark knock under heavy load and part throttle. If spark knock occurs under part throttle conditions, a change in the vacuum advance curve is needed. This adjustment is made by inserting the 3/32” alien wrench into the vacuum advance unit and turning the adjuster counterclockwise two turns at a time, testing the vehicle after each change, until part throttle spark knock is eliminated.

That's Great Gary that's the same place that I started with (Crane Cams).

However, when you describe the initial timing being "...the factory setting plus 2 - 4 degrees"

If the Factory for my Truck is 8° BTDC

Does that mean my initial timing could be 10°-12° BTDC?

I have desmogged this engine and plugged the heads, I think I've seen somewhere on this forum some claim to re-adjust after be about 5° BTDC.

Just curious if I need to review the initial timing or is the Vac Advance my last step.

Thanks again to the Bullnose Crew

[Gary Lewis]

That's Great Gary that's the same place that I started with (Crane Cams).

However, when you describe the initial timing being "...the factory setting plus 2 - 4 degrees"

If the Factory for my Truck is 8° BTDC

Does that mean my initial timing could be 10°-12° BTDC?

I have desmogged this engine and plugged the heads, I think I've seen somewhere on this forum some claim to re-adjust after be about 5° BTDC.

Just curious if I need to review the initial timing or is the Vac Advance my last step.

Thanks again to the Bullnose Crew

Yes, you can add 2 to 4 degrees the the factory spec.

So I’d set initial to 10 or 12 and see if it starts ok hot. If it kicks back when starting hot take out a couple of degrees.

Then worry about vacuum when the initial is set.

[Bulletproof250]

Yes, you can add 2 to 4 degrees the the factory spec.

So I’d set initial to 10 or 12 and see if it starts ok hot. If it kicks back when starting hot take out a couple of degrees.

Then worry about vacuum when the initial is set.