Rust repairs

[Cdatar]

Hi All,

Update on my 1983 F250 Super Cab

I have started to work on the rust on My F250 SC. I have been chasing a water leak that has caused most of the rust issues on the passenger side. I believe it is coming in thru the firewall where the heater box adjoins the firewall in the engine bay. This was originally a Left Hand Drive & the engine bay heater box was flipped upside down& installed on the left. I have an Australian dash assembly with the Australian heater box which is mounted inside the cab, but will be installing after roadworthy & registration. As you can see in the pics the rust is not too substantial. I will drill out the rust pin holes & plug weld them. The bottoms of the "A" pillars & the Right Hand Sill I will form up new pieces & weld these in. Drivers foot well panel is all good.

[Gary Lewis]

We were just talking about this in another thread. Welding rusty metal is difficult as the metal easily melts and the welder blows a hole. You may be a very accomplished welder, but I'm not so I used a torch and brazed the holes. It worked well for me as well as for tckbacklash, as discussed here.

After brazing I put a heavy coat of POR-15 on the floor and discovered that I'd missed some pinholes, but the paint sealed them nicely, as well as the rust on the floor.

[ckuske]

We were just talking about this in another thread. Welding rusty metal is difficult as the metal easily melts and the welder blows a hole. You may be a very accomplished welder, but I'm not so I used a torch and brazed the holes. It worked well for me as well as for tckbacklash, as discussed here.

After brazing I put a heavy coat of POR-15 on the floor and discovered that I'd missed some pinholes, but the paint sealed them nicely, as well as the rust on the floor.

I brazed my floor as well, and the hole I dealt with was larger in diameter.

I’d never done anything of the sort before (I spend too much time on my computer working, haha), and it worked out just fine even as a beginner. I used a MAP torch.

[Cdatar]

We were just talking about this in another thread. Welding rusty metal is difficult as the metal easily melts and the welder blows a hole. You may be a very accomplished welder, but I'm not so I used a torch and brazed the holes. It worked well for me as well as for tckbacklash, as discussed here.

After brazing I put a heavy coat of POR-15 on the floor and discovered that I'd missed some pinholes, but the paint sealed them nicely, as well as the rust on the floor.

Hi Gary,

Not a very accomplished welder myself, but I am going to give it a go. I do have Oxy/Acetylene equipment & metal brazing I have done a lot in the past before I purchased any type of electric welding equipment. I might end up going the same way as a finished job is better done with what ever works than failing & giving up. I will keep you updated.

Cheers Peter

[Gary Lewis]

Hi Gary,

Not a very accomplished welder myself, but I am going to give it a go. I do have Oxy/Acetylene equipment & metal brazing I have done a lot in the past before I purchased any type of electric welding equipment. I might end up going the same way as a finished job is better done with what ever works than failing & giving up. I will keep you updated.

Cheers Peter

Good luck, Peter!

[JimJam300]

Yes I did it for the first time on mine and it was much easier than I thought it would be, even with the MAPP torch. A proper torch would be a breeze. If there's any spaces that are too tight that won't work with braising or welding, I just recently used POR-15 Patch to go over all the floor seams on my truck and it's super strong.