Jump to content
Bullnose Forums

Drivers side window shattered.


Recommended Posts

It helps... But still tight.

i have seen a few cases where the new door gaskets are too tight in their construction. lets consider something. it is a hollow tube essentially with a splice at the bottom with a foam coupler. when shutting the door the air inside the tube is compressed also and must be displaced. some manufacturers punch a series of holes for this venting. some may not. look over the gaskets well to see if they are vented and if not, a small round xacto tool is what i use to carefully make a few. only vent to the cabin area otherwise it may take on water.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They're from LMC, if that matters.

Larry, I too got mine from LMC.

In addition to waiting a few weeks for the rubber to smooth and take its place, I had to play with the position of the four door latches (yep, crew cab is like a motel), in order to find a comfortable slam-the-door-arm-power requirement.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They're from LMC, if that matters.

Larry, I too got mine from LMC.

In addition to waiting a few weeks for the rubber to smooth and take its place, I had to play with the position of the four door latches (yep, crew cab is like a motel), in order to find a comfortable slam-the-door-arm-power requirement.

I did that... to be able to get them to shut at all!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i have seen a few cases where the new door gaskets are too tight in their construction. lets consider something. it is a hollow tube essentially with a splice at the bottom with a foam coupler. when shutting the door the air inside the tube is compressed also and must be displaced. some manufacturers punch a series of holes for this venting. some may not. look over the gaskets well to see if they are vented and if not, a small round xacto tool is what i use to carefully make a few. only vent to the cabin area otherwise it may take on water.

This is a solid thought that I hadn't considered. I will add holes in my weather stripping. Also, I notice that my passenger door sticks way out at the top but not at the bottom after changing the weather stripping. Would you assume that I simply need to adjust how the door hangs?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is a solid thought that I hadn't considered. I will add holes in my weather stripping. Also, I notice that my passenger door sticks way out at the top but not at the bottom after changing the weather stripping. Would you assume that I simply need to adjust how the door hangs?

new issue! if the door "fit" has changed then there are a couple possibilities. most common is worn bushings in the hinges. now that you changed one thing you may need to inspect more. the door fit is triangular in nature. by this i mean it is primarily adjusted at the hinge points then the latch adjustment is the third. if the door sags at all or drops even a little when opening it, then it can move outward at the upper hinge upon slamming it. when there is slack it can get moved around in odd ways by changing the pressure points.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

new issue! if the door "fit" has changed then there are a couple possibilities. most common is worn bushings in the hinges. now that you changed one thing you may need to inspect more. the door fit is triangular in nature. by this i mean it is primarily adjusted at the hinge points then the latch adjustment is the third. if the door sags at all or drops even a little when opening it, then it can move outward at the upper hinge upon slamming it. when there is slack it can get moved around in odd ways by changing the pressure points.

I've already replaced the bushings. I'm sure I just need to fiddle around with the hinges to line the door up better now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...