Dyn Blin Posted September 9, 2018 Share Posted September 9, 2018 Oops! Sorry! Did you get the magic smoke back in? Heh. All is well here. I have the dash off for other reasons and since I had my EVTM close by, I double checked before I tapped. I haven't always been so careful in the past. Once (wires) burned, twice shy. Figured I would pass it on while it was on my mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 9, 2018 Share Posted September 9, 2018 Heh. All is well here. I have the dash off for other reasons and since I had my EVTM close by, I double checked before I tapped. I haven't always been so careful in the past. Once (wires) burned, twice shy. Figured I would pass it on while it was on my mind. Good. So, did grounding it kill the ignition? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dyn Blin Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 Good. So, did grounding it kill the ignition? Oh yes. It just spins, & sounds like it's about to catch, but never does. I used 18 guage wire & it doesn't get hot. Ring terminal (grounded) to the switch and a blue Positap for the tach wire. It'll be good for the lazy thieves. The smart ones will disconnect the shaft and tow it. I don't know many young bucks that even know how to drive a clutch, unless they are off the farm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 Oh yes. It just spins, & sounds like it's about to catch, but never does. I used 18 guage wire & it doesn't get hot. Ring terminal (grounded) to the switch and a blue Positap for the tach wire. It'll be good for the lazy thieves. The smart ones will disconnect the shaft and tow it. I don't know many young bucks that even know how to drive a clutch, unless they are off the farm. I thought that would be pretty effective. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dyn Blin Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 I thought that would be pretty effective. Indeed. Kudos to you! Simple & effective. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarterwave Posted January 2, 2019 Author Share Posted January 2, 2019 The LED might actually glow when the engine is running as there will be voltage on that wire. In fact, if I remember correctly I saw in excess of 35v when I put my scope on it, so it might blow the LED. As for the wire size, #20 would probably work. The wire to the tach, the dark green/yellow is probably a #16, so that's what I'd use but it isn't critical. And, you are tapping into that wire. But, if it was me I'd prove the theory by taking a jumper wire and shorting the dark green/yellow wire to ground and trying to start the truck. You can easily get to that wire on the coil - the terminal marked "Tach". You can place the switch anywhere that is convenient. However, there will be some electrical "noise" in that wire so I wouldn't bundle it tightly to the input of the subwoofer as you might be able to hear the noise in the sub. As for the ground, and ground will do and the seat bolt should work fine. Or the one for the sub will be fine. Hi Gary, I'm going back to this thread as most of my interior is now in the truck and I'm at the point of adding in the kill switch. As I was re-reading this thread, there was a mention of grounding the cut off switch and it didn't make sense to me - in that the switch that I have is a simple, on-off type of switch that has two connections on the rear of it. Here is a link to the exact switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZWWZ0GK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Currently, I have this mounted and hidden with two wires coming off it - ready to be added into the ignition circuit... should one of those wires be grounded? By my understanding (and please, correct me if I'm wrong), I need to find the green/yellow wire (is that in the column?) cut it, connect one side of the cut wire to the wire that is connected to the "off" terminal on the cutoff, and then connect the other side of the cut wire to the wire that is connected to the "on" terminal of the cut off. Is that correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 2, 2019 Share Posted January 2, 2019 Hi Gary, I'm going back to this thread as most of my interior is now in the truck and I'm at the point of adding in the kill switch. As I was re-reading this thread, there was a mention of grounding the cut off switch and it didn't make sense to me - in that the switch that I have is a simple, on-off type of switch that has two connections on the rear of it. Here is a link to the exact switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZWWZ0GK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Currently, I have this mounted and hidden with two wires coming off it - ready to be added into the ignition circuit... should one of those wires be grounded? By my understanding (and please, correct me if I'm wrong), I need to find the green/yellow wire (is that in the column?) cut it, connect one side of the cut wire to the wire that is connected to the "off" terminal on the cutoff, and then connect the other side of the cut wire to the wire that is connected to the "on" terminal of the cut off. Is that correct? Yes and no, in that order. Yes, you have a switch that will work. But no, don't hook it up that way. You want the dark green/yellow wire that is coming from the coil, as shown here, and is going to the tach, as shown here. I don't think it will be on the steering column, but it will be going to the instruments, and you could get to it fairly easily by pulling the instrument cluster out and disconnecting it from the harness. That would give you pretty good access to the wire. But you want to tap into that wire, leaving the wire intact, and take the wire that you've connected to the dark green/yellow wire to one side of your switch - and it doesn't matter which side. Then, take a wire from the other side of the switch to ground. Presto, when the switch is On the engine cannot run. Why you might ask? Because the coil is grounded and nothing the ignition module does can create a spark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarterwave Posted January 2, 2019 Author Share Posted January 2, 2019 Yes and no, in that order. Yes, you have a switch that will work. But no, don't hook it up that way. You want the dark green/yellow wire that is coming from the coil, as shown here, and is going to the tach, as shown here. I don't think it will be on the steering column, but it will be going to the instruments, and you could get to it fairly easily by pulling the instrument cluster out and disconnecting it from the harness. That would give you pretty good access to the wire. But you want to tap into that wire, leaving the wire intact, and take the wire that you've connected to the dark green/yellow wire to one side of your switch - and it doesn't matter which side. Then, take a wire from the other side of the switch to ground. Presto, when the switch is On the engine cannot run. Why you might ask? Because the coil is grounded and nothing the ignition module does can create a spark. Thank you for the education, Gary. I have no tach in the cluster but from what I've read in the threads here, the wiring should be all there, so I'll pull the cluster out this weekend. Much appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 2, 2019 Share Posted January 2, 2019 Thank you for the education, Gary. I have no tach in the cluster but from what I've read in the threads here, the wiring should be all there, so I'll pull the cluster out this weekend. Much appreciated! Welcome. If you can install the switch so that it is open when the lever is pushed forward and closed when it is pulled back then you could think "forward to go, backward to stop" - or somesuch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarterwave Posted January 2, 2019 Author Share Posted January 2, 2019 Welcome. If you can install the switch so that it is open when the lever is pushed forward and closed when it is pulled back then you could think "forward to go, backward to stop" - or somesuch. Yeah, at the moment, I have it as "up" is on and "down" is off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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