AOD with 351W and Edelbrock 1406 TV rod to TV cable fix?

[Gsmblue]

Oh boy. The drama of a non factory set up!

My Bronco has a 351W with a Edlebrock 1406 and a AOD transmission.

When changing from a C6 to an AOD the transmission shop reused the C6 transmission kickdown rod as a TV rod on the AOD. AND it is installed really poorly.

Today I stumbled across a YouTube video from Monster Transmissions that uses a set of parts from Lokar to correctly set up this carb/tranny combo.

It looks so simple in their videos I just had to order up the parts. With shipping that is ~$300..

Part 1 is the transmission end:

Part 2 is the more interesting carb end.

My Bronco has speed control so I will need to make sure that still works too.

Could this be the solution to my transmissions issues?????

 

[LARIAT 85]

The video below is the best I have ever seen regarding how the carburetor geometry must be correct for the AOD to function correctly with a TV cable. I wish I had found this when I trying to figure all this out on my own. The mechanic is describing an aftermarket carburetor mated to a GM 700R4, but the exact same principles apply to the Ford AOD with an aftermarket carburetor:

[Machspeed]

Not sure how long you ran your truck with that configuration, but I'm thinking that if the trans isn't jacked, you're a lucky man. From what I've read, that adjustment is critical to the life of the trans.

[Gsmblue]

Not sure how long you ran your truck with that configuration, but I'm thinking that if the trans isn't jacked, you're a lucky man. From what I've read, that adjustment is critical to the life of the trans.

Thanks for the video, I will watch that with great interest.

The transmission has never been "right" and I suspect it is due to that TV linkage. I think it has about 2.5k or so on it.

Just this week it started to behave really badly so yes, it could be done.

Getting this linkage is something I have to sort out. The rod set up, although not unique, is not adjustable.

[mat in tn]

Thanks for the video, I will watch that with great interest.

The transmission has never been "right" and I suspect it is due to that TV linkage. I think it has about 2.5k or so on it.

Just this week it started to behave really badly so yes, it could be done.

Getting this linkage is something I have to sort out. The rod set up, although not unique, is not adjustable.

very important. I use aod's a lot and tv adjustment and "range of operation" is critical for the life of the trans. understanding that the amount of movement is mechanically tied to the throttle movement is only half of the equation. the size of the throttle MUST be taken into consideration, although often overlooked. consider that you need to move the throttle more when opening a single butterfly of 1.75" versus opening two of like size. you only move half as much to create the same volume of air and fuel therefore applying more torque to the transmission, but you have not told the transmission that you were doing so. therefore, you are pushing harder on the clutches than they are expecting! the throttle valve in the valve body needs to match torque input with clutch holding to avoid slipping. often, we see oversized carbs or throttle bodies installed with no changes to the adjustments and then the aod gets blamed for being weak. not really the case. the measurements get tricky but essentially when you go bigger on the throttle size then you need a faster acting tv response. tightening the cable only does so much and often gets harsher shifts and downshifts. when really the range of operation is off. I know of no commercial fix and usually make my own brackets.

[85lebaront2]

very important. I use aod's a lot and tv adjustment and "range of operation" is critical for the life of the trans. understanding that the amount of movement is mechanically tied to the throttle movement is only half of the equation. the size of the throttle MUST be taken into consideration, although often overlooked. consider that you need to move the throttle more when opening a single butterfly of 1.75" versus opening two of like size. you only move half as much to create the same volume of air and fuel therefore applying more torque to the transmission, but you have not told the transmission that you were doing so. therefore, you are pushing harder on the clutches than they are expecting! the throttle valve in the valve body needs to match torque input with clutch holding to avoid slipping. often, we see oversized carbs or throttle bodies installed with no changes to the adjustments and then the aod gets blamed for being weak. not really the case. the measurements get tricky but essentially when you go bigger on the throttle size then you need a faster acting tv response. tightening the cable only does so much and often gets harsher shifts and downshifts. when really the range of operation is off. I know of no commercial fix and usually make my own brackets.

Mat, those of us who are old enough to (a) remember and (b) have worked on the old GM Hydra-Matics are pretty familiar with the mechanical throttle linkage systems and fine tuning of them. The single coupling 4 speed had a 2-3 shift with a fine line between jerk and slip, and at best it was rough since it was a double shift, front unit downshifted while the rear unit upshifted.

When they went to the dual coupling, since the front unit clutch was replaced with a controlled coupling the tuning became a little easier as a sprag clutch replaced the band in D4 or D depending on the car line so the downshift on the front unit simply involved dumping the controlled coupling while the rear unit did the band to clutch upshift.

In 1961 in an effort to simplify and reduce cost along with the need for a more compact transmission for the F85, GM came out with the Roto-Hydramatic, a 3 speed unit called a 3 speed 4 stage. First gear, first stage was a controlled coupling with a small stator that was connected to the output shaft. It provided a minimal torque converter effect, which was partially cancelled by the reaction force pushing the wrong way on the output shaft. First speed second stage was coupling acting as a clutch driving the gearset. Second gear was a purely mechanical through the gear train with no coupling or converter function as it was drained. Between that and the jump from first to second ratio (like skipping 1-3 in a 4 speed) that shift was extremely sensitive to TV linkage adjustment.

 

[Gsmblue]

Mat, those of us who are old enough to (a) remember and (b) have worked on the old GM Hydra-Matics are pretty familiar with the mechanical throttle linkage systems and fine tuning of them. The single coupling 4 speed had a 2-3 shift with a fine line between jerk and slip, and at best it was rough since it was a double shift, front unit downshifted while the rear unit upshifted.

When they went to the dual coupling, since the front unit clutch was replaced with a controlled coupling the tuning became a little easier as a sprag clutch replaced the band in D4 or D depending on the car line so the downshift on the front unit simply involved dumping the controlled coupling while the rear unit did the band to clutch upshift.

In 1961 in an effort to simplify and reduce cost along with the need for a more compact transmission for the F85, GM came out with the Roto-Hydramatic, a 3 speed unit called a 3 speed 4 stage. First gear, first stage was a controlled coupling with a small stator that was connected to the output shaft. It provided a minimal torque converter effect, which was partially cancelled by the reaction force pushing the wrong way on the output shaft. First speed second stage was coupling acting as a clutch driving the gearset. Second gear was a purely mechanical through the gear train with no coupling or converter function as it was drained. Between that and the jump from first to second ratio (like skipping 1-3 in a 4 speed) that shift was extremely sensitive to TV linkage adjustment.

All good information.

From the videos it looks like I will broadly have the right parts to convert to the cable TV. It seems pretty straight forward to install and I like how it can be adjusted from the engine bay with only a wrench.

The current mechanical linkage that is in place now has NO adjustment.

Espy is parked up until the kit arrives.

[Gary Lewis]

All good information.

From the videos it looks like I will broadly have the right parts to convert to the cable TV. It seems pretty straight forward to install and I like how it can be adjusted from the engine bay with only a wrench.

The current mechanical linkage that is in place now has NO adjustment.

Espy is parked up until the kit arrives.

I'll have my that there's no damage and the kit provides the needed adjustability.

[Gsmblue]

I'll have my that there's no damage and the kit provides the needed adjustability.

Thank Gary.

I am going to set it up as per the videos I posted. The speed control will need an extra mounting bracket and I will need to find someone locally to help with that as it is probably outside of my skill set.

[mat in tn]

Thank Gary.

I am going to set it up as per the videos I posted. The speed control will need an extra mounting bracket and I will need to find someone locally to help with that as it is probably outside of my skill set.

the old info of previous gm designs is interesting . i'm still studying power transfer systems. but i study one trans at a time as im building or modifying one. i generally focus on aod's as i like using them in f100 and f150 trucks. so much of the internal operation is not so adjustable yet relies on info from external points. not totally versed in all things transmission. just my own experience with building certain models. and the range of operation im referring to is on the external "communication" portion of the system.