taskswap Posted June 2, 2022 Share Posted June 2, 2022 [...] those crimp on connectors will get wet and the wires will corrode. I use the waterproof heat-shrinkable connectors everywhere, even inside the cabin. Expensive, but I never had corrosion problem with these. I prefer this method more than the heat shrink sleeves. Maybe just a matter of taste? In all cases, no place for electric tape on my wiring! I don't use Chiltons, Clymers, or Hanes for anything but filling my shelves. Good advice Gary, I'll remember that! Those waterproof ones are stronger too. The adhesive lining adds some grip that helps prevent the joint from breaking over the years from fatigue. I carry a dozen in every toolbox for emergencies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted June 2, 2022 Share Posted June 2, 2022 [...] those crimp on connectors will get wet and the wires will corrode. I use the waterproof heat-shrinkable connectors everywhere, even inside the cabin. Expensive, but I never had corrosion problem with these. I prefer this method more than the heat shrink sleeves. Maybe just a matter of taste? In all cases, no place for electric tape on my wiring! I don't use Chiltons, Clymers, or Hanes for anything but filling my shelves. Good advice Gary, I'll remember that! I generally solder and heat shrink, and if I am splicing a harness with a number of wires, I will stagger the splices. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted June 2, 2022 Share Posted June 2, 2022 I generally solder and heat shrink, and if I am splicing a harness with a number of wires, I will stagger the splices. I'm glad you posted this as I will need to replace some plugs on my DS II harness and was wondering where to find the male ends. Thanks! I mistakenly referred to my Haynes manual when changing my spark plugs and wires (Ranger) last weekend, and if I had set them up the way the Haynes manual told me to, the truck would have run poorly, if at all. Luckily my Motorcraft coil pack is marked with the matched sets, so I used that for reference to run the wires and just had to make sure I knew the cylinders by Ford's definition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted June 2, 2022 Share Posted June 2, 2022 I generally solder and heat shrink, and if I am splicing a harness with a number of wires, I will stagger the splices. If it's an inline splice to an existing wire I'll solder and liquid tape the individual connections (as I don't cut the existing wire, just carefully notch off the existing insulation) and then tape over the entire harness. Otherwise for wires 20 gauge and larger these days I crimp, with heat shrink butts especially if in a washdown area. Heavy(ish) connections are with done with spade terminals, lighter ones (that don't see routine unplugging) get bullet crimps. I mention this because yesterday I noticed that the bullet crimps I used for the SPOUT disconnect on my TFI ICM harness had shrunk from heat to where one wouldn't be able to unplug it to set base timing... redid it with spades which don't have that issue in my experience. The way I was taught and what I've found in practice is that for power applications at least, solder is better than a poor mechanical connection, but inferior to a good mechanical connection. Solder has a resistance greater than copper... and when there's a lot of amps, that resistance can become an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted June 3, 2022 Share Posted June 3, 2022 If it's an inline splice to an existing wire I'll solder and liquid tape the individual connections (as I don't cut the existing wire, just carefully notch off the existing insulation) and then tape over the entire harness. Otherwise for wires 20 gauge and larger these days I crimp, with heat shrink butts especially if in a washdown area. Heavy(ish) connections are with done with spade terminals, lighter ones (that don't see routine unplugging) get bullet crimps. I mention this because yesterday I noticed that the bullet crimps I used for the SPOUT disconnect on my TFI ICM harness had shrunk from heat to where one wouldn't be able to unplug it to set base timing... redid it with spades which don't have that issue in my experience. The way I was taught and what I've found in practice is that for power applications at least, solder is better than a poor mechanical connection, but inferior to a good mechanical connection. Solder has a resistance greater than copper... and when there's a lot of amps, that resistance can become an issue. I was taught how to splice wires by a man with a Masters degree in electrical engineering from MIT. I have rewired a number of vehicles over the years and never had any major problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted June 3, 2022 Share Posted June 3, 2022 I was taught how to splice wires by a man with a Masters degree in electrical engineering from MIT. I have rewired a number of vehicles over the years and never had any major problems. I was originally taught by a Mentor with a Master's in EE from someplace... guy was a genius. Specifically after we (in the context of High School (FIRST) robotics) made the mistake of trying to crimp 6 gauge battery lugs in a vice and then torch soldered them after... they got so hot under load that the heat from them was soaking and tripping out 120A main breaker. Swapping to some screw/clamp type terminals (which we had had luck torch soldering) fixed that issue... don't use those type crimps if you don't have the right crimper! That said, I was also taught in college (for my BS in EET) by a professor with a Master's in EET (or EE, I don't remember) that if it works, it's right. Do what works for you, until it stops working for you. There isn't a single right answer in this case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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