Westerj Posted May 16, 2022 Share Posted May 16, 2022 Have a 1985 F350 with 460 engine. there is some evidence of crackng on the #1 cylinder exhaust manifold. How big of a job is that swap out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westerj Posted May 16, 2022 Author Share Posted May 16, 2022 Looks bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reamer Posted May 16, 2022 Share Posted May 16, 2022 Looks bad. It could be very easy! had to remove the manifolds on a '73 bronco cause they were cracked too. Thought it would be an all-day fight, but I drove it around and got it hot, the when it cooled slightly in the garage, All the bolts came out! Not a broken one on either side. Then there is the other situation where once 1 bolt snaps, now its a day-long (or longer) fight.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 16, 2022 Share Posted May 16, 2022 Looks bad. What's the silvery stuff? Has someone already attempted to repair the manifold? Or is it something that just melted on it? Have you tried to remove the silvery stuff with a screwdriver or something sharp? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted May 16, 2022 Share Posted May 16, 2022 Looks bad. That could only be a bad gasket, but, getting the bolts out can be mission impossible. Getting it good and hot might do it as they will get red hot after a good run. Does your truck have the dual air pumps with the pipes to the manifolds? One of the issues on the right side (cyls 1 - 4) is access to the bolts around the upper spring seats on a 2WD model. Removing the inner fender plastic liner helps as you can get a straight shot at several of the bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted May 16, 2022 Share Posted May 16, 2022 That could only be a bad gasket, but, getting the bolts out can be mission impossible. Getting it good and hot might do it as they will get red hot after a good run. Does your truck have the dual air pumps with the pipes to the manifolds? One of the issues on the right side (cyls 1 - 4) is access to the bolts around the upper spring seats on a 2WD model. Removing the inner fender plastic liner helps as you can get a straight shot at several of the bolts. someone definitely has attempted to quiet things with "repair putty". I'm sure the crack is bigger than what you can see. and yes, this is a good example of a job that "should" be fairly strait forward but could get messy quick if bolts start breaking. good advice to get it up to temp and then let cool just enough to work safely with gloves and break all bolts loose. after that have let it cool even till the next day if needed. removal is usually the lion's share of the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westerj Posted May 23, 2022 Author Share Posted May 23, 2022 That could only be a bad gasket, but, getting the bolts out can be mission impossible. Getting it good and hot might do it as they will get red hot after a good run. Does your truck have the dual air pumps with the pipes to the manifolds? One of the issues on the right side (cyls 1 - 4) is access to the bolts around the upper spring seats on a 2WD model. Removing the inner fender plastic liner helps as you can get a straight shot at several of the bolts. Any tips on removing the plastic liner? The cost of the manifold is priced in, but the frustration level is intimidating. That should help alot. Is an pneumatic impact the right tool? It's a low mileage motor (34K) but is from 1986 - lotta years. Do have a loaner acetylene tank set on premises. Could do that too. Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted May 23, 2022 Share Posted May 23, 2022 Any tips on removing the plastic liner? The cost of the manifold is priced in, but the frustration level is intimidating. That should help alot. Is an pneumatic impact the right tool? It's a low mileage motor (34K) but is from 1986 - lotta years. Do have a loaner acetylene tank set on premises. Could do that too. Thanks in advance. That side is a bit of a pain due to the battery tray. There are a few very small hex head (7/32") screws along the wheel opening lip, two 10mm head ones up front under the battery tray that have to be taken out from the top, two more that may have 8mm heads diagonally from underneath in line with the inside panel on the fender and one at the back through a firewall tab under the HVAC case. One, maybe two vertically behind the wheel opening into the rocker panel area. If you can find the illustrations Gary Lewis put on the site it will help with fastener locations. On them, penetrating oil is your friend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 23, 2022 Share Posted May 23, 2022 That side is a bit of a pain due to the battery tray. There are a few very small hex head (7/32") screws along the wheel opening lip, two 10mm head ones up front under the battery tray that have to be taken out from the top, two more that may have 8mm heads diagonally from underneath in line with the inside panel on the fender and one at the back through a firewall tab under the HVAC case. One, maybe two vertically behind the wheel opening into the rocker panel area. If you can find the illustrations Gary Lewis put on the site it will help with fastener locations. On them, penetrating oil is your friend. Is this it, Bill? Documentation/Fasteners & Illustratons/FENDERS AND APRONS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted May 23, 2022 Share Posted May 23, 2022 Is this it, Bill? Documentation/Fasteners & Illustratons/FENDERS AND APRONS Bingo, 3 cherries! Exactly the picture needed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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