Wagoneermaster Posted April 22, 2022 Author Share Posted April 22, 2022 is that a "jack stand" made out of rebar? Not sure. But as long as I can remember, I have these jack stands. They don't seem to be self made. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wagoneermaster Posted May 1, 2022 Author Share Posted May 1, 2022 Not sure. But as long as I can remember, I have these jack stands. They don't seem to be self made. Last week, I was able to rebuild the carb and started the engine with a fuel bypass (12V electric fuel pump and a bottle of fuel). I have also removed the rubber fuel hoses from the fuel tank to the mechanical fuel pump on the engine. Replaced them with new rubber fuel hoses and added a filter. Then I put about 30 litres of fuel in the tank (just under 10 gallons) and used a vacuum sucker to do an initial flush of the fuel system. Some dirt and old fuel came out. Reconnected the mechanical fuel pump and attached a hose to a jar. Started the engine and also the pump seemed to be working. Afterwards, a conected the fuel pump to the carb and installed another filter in between. Started the engine and that is working now . Then I tried switching the transmission into gear. No reaction. I waited a while untill the engine warmed up completly and checked for the tranny fluid level. Dry dipstick. I have topped up the transmission with almost 1 gallon of fluid untill the correct level. Now comes the next challange: Reverse is working okay, but none of the forward gears. The kick down linkage is not connected yet, but I don't think that would be the problem. I also replaced the rubber vacuum hose to the modulator, but no luck. Searching the net learned me that it seems to be one of the common faults of the C6: dried out valve seals. I don't know the history of the truck, so I also don't know if this has been a problem or not in the past. I only know that I found a lot of incorrect installed cabling and a few issues with this Holley 1850 carb in combination with the trottle cable and kick down linkage. I still have a lot to do on the truck so I am looking for a quick fix in the forward gear area. I read the C6 issue in low temperatures and the foam additive to soften the seals to fix it. What other things should I be looking at and checking? BTW also the power steering was almost empty, fluid wise. I guess that is also an indication that the truck has been standing unused for a while... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 2, 2022 Share Posted May 2, 2022 Last week, I was able to rebuild the carb and started the engine with a fuel bypass (12V electric fuel pump and a bottle of fuel). I have also removed the rubber fuel hoses from the fuel tank to the mechanical fuel pump on the engine. Replaced them with new rubber fuel hoses and added a filter. Then I put about 30 litres of fuel in the tank (just under 10 gallons) and used a vacuum sucker to do an initial flush of the fuel system. Some dirt and old fuel came out. Reconnected the mechanical fuel pump and attached a hose to a jar. Started the engine and also the pump seemed to be working. Afterwards, a conected the fuel pump to the carb and installed another filter in between. Started the engine and that is working now . Then I tried switching the transmission into gear. No reaction. I waited a while untill the engine warmed up completly and checked for the tranny fluid level. Dry dipstick. I have topped up the transmission with almost 1 gallon of fluid untill the correct level. Now comes the next challange: Reverse is working okay, but none of the forward gears. The kick down linkage is not connected yet, but I don't think that would be the problem. I also replaced the rubber vacuum hose to the modulator, but no luck. Searching the net learned me that it seems to be one of the common faults of the C6: dried out valve seals. I don't know the history of the truck, so I also don't know if this has been a problem or not in the past. I only know that I found a lot of incorrect installed cabling and a few issues with this Holley 1850 carb in combination with the trottle cable and kick down linkage. I still have a lot to do on the truck so I am looking for a quick fix in the forward gear area. I read the C6 issue in low temperatures and the foam additive to soften the seals to fix it. What other things should I be looking at and checking? BTW also the power steering was almost empty, fluid wise. I guess that is also an indication that the truck has been standing unused for a while... Well, you are making progress! Yes, you'll always find a number of unexpected problems as you go, but that's what I call "peeling the onion". Peel and cry, peel and cry, but soon you'll have enough to have an onion ring fry-up. On the transmission, I'd add a can of something like Seafoam for transmissions. And after shifting into reverse and then forward several times I'd then see if the level is down again as the torque converter might have been dry and took some of what you added. Also, see if the vacuum modulator is bad. They can develop a leak and that will suck transmission fluid into the engine. You can check that by trying to pull a vacuum on the modulator. Or pull the engine end of the hose to the modulator to see if it is dry. And if you still can't get it to go into forward gears drive it as much as you can and as fast as you dare in reverse. I'm told that doing so will move fluid through passages rapidly and that may clean out some gunk. And you have to get the additive, like Seafoam, to move around in the system to do its job. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wagoneermaster Posted May 2, 2022 Author Share Posted May 2, 2022 Well, you are making progress! Yes, you'll always find a number of unexpected problems as you go, but that's what I call "peeling the onion". Peel and cry, peel and cry, but soon you'll have enough to have an onion ring fry-up. On the transmission, I'd add a can of something like Seafoam for transmissions. And after shifting into reverse and then forward several times I'd then see if the level is down again as the torque converter might have been dry and took some of what you added. Also, see if the vacuum modulator is bad. They can develop a leak and that will suck transmission fluid into the engine. You can check that by trying to pull a vacuum on the modulator. Or pull the engine end of the hose to the modulator to see if it is dry. And if you still can't get it to go into forward gears drive it as much as you can and as fast as you dare in reverse. I'm told that doing so will move fluid through passages rapidly and that may clean out some gunk. And you have to get the additive, like Seafoam, to move around in the system to do its job. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. Hi Gary, I will remember the onion story . I have ordered some tranny additive today. To be continued... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wagoneermaster Posted May 4, 2022 Author Share Posted May 4, 2022 Hi Gary, I will remember the onion story . I have ordered some tranny additive today. To be continued... Again a few steps back. The engine refused to start again. Some backfire events. I decided to inspect the carb. After removing the carb, I discovered that I made a huge mistake. I had used the incorrect gasket between the carb base and the carburator spacer on the intake manifold. I picked the correct gasket from the rebuild kit that would fit the carb base perfectly, but I didn't think about it anymore when I droped the carb with gasket onto the spaver Part of the centre of the gasket was missing. I removed the spark plugs and did a compression test on all cylinders. Two of them didn't have any compression. Hopefully I can get the pieces of gasket out if I remove the intake manifold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 4, 2022 Share Posted May 4, 2022 Again a few steps back. The engine refused to start again. Some backfire events. I decided to inspect the carb. After removing the carb, I discovered that I made a huge mistake. I had used the incorrect gasket between the carb base and the carburator spacer on the intake manifold. I picked the correct gasket from the rebuild kit that would fit the carb base perfectly, but I didn't think about it anymore when I droped the carb with gasket onto the spaver Part of the centre of the gasket was missing. I removed the spark plugs and did a compression test on all cylinders. Two of them didn't have any compression. Hopefully I can get the pieces of gasket out if I remove the intake manifold Yes, :nabble_crossed-fingers-20-pixel_orig::nabble_crossed-fingers-20-pixel_orig: I suspect the debris is holding the valves open and that you can get it out by pulling the intake. But that is a huge pain. So sorry! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted May 5, 2022 Share Posted May 5, 2022 Yes, :nabble_crossed-fingers-20-pixel_orig::nabble_crossed-fingers-20-pixel_orig: I suspect the debris is holding the valves open and that you can get it out by pulling the intake. But that is a huge pain. So sorry! I understand the explanation, but I don't know why you are showing two types of Holley gaskets. are you using a single plane intake or an open center spacer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wagoneermaster Posted May 19, 2022 Author Share Posted May 19, 2022 I understand the explanation, but I don't know why you are showing two types of Holley gaskets. are you using a single plane intake or an open center spacer?It's an open center spacer.But the problem got worse: I have taken the intake manifold away and I discovered this:Two pushrods were bent. So more work to do, but very little time at the moment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gsmblue Posted May 19, 2022 Share Posted May 19, 2022 It's an open center spacer.But the problem got worse: I have taken the intake manifold away and I discovered this:Two pushrods were bent. So more work to do, but very little time at the moment Oh wow… i hope nothing else is damaged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted May 20, 2022 Share Posted May 20, 2022 Oh wow… i hope nothing else is damaged. I cannot really see well but the lifter looks worth scrutiny. if the lifter is galled or stuck that would explain the bent pushrod and very likely the valve too. I fear the head is coming off next. it certainly would in my shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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