dsstephens Posted April 18, 2023 Share Posted April 18, 2023 Ditto here. Thing has worked flawlessly. My buddys have had similar experiences. I really love it. It's the ease and dependability of a modern engine. All those people bitching about not being able to get their aftermarket EFI working must not be using a Pro Flo! That's great. I'm stoked to get it running again. If anyone is inclined to take pics of their engine bay and post that would be great. Especially on the fender wells and firewall. While I've removed the harness there are lots of connectors floating around. I'm going to take some photos and post up as I progress, but pictures of finished product would be great frame of reference in this thread, and I'll do the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Littlebeefy Posted April 18, 2023 Author Share Posted April 18, 2023 That's great. I'm stoked to get it running again. If anyone is inclined to take pics of their engine bay and post that would be great. Especially on the fender wells and firewall. While I've removed the harness there are lots of connectors floating around. I'm going to take some photos and post up as I progress, but pictures of finished product would be great frame of reference in this thread, and I'll do the same. I just happened to snap a pic yesterday after I cleaned her up for Bronco Supercelebration this weekend: If you need a picture of something specific I can send it over, but the wiring is very simple and is mostly tucked away alongside the battery. Virtually everything is Edelbrock harness, MSD harness, fuel pump harness, 1-wire alternator and starter relay. Virtually all of the wiring on the passenger side of the engine bay is new with the equipment (except HVAC and starter relay). So is all of the wiring that runs through the firewall behind the engine. All of the wiring that comes out of the firewall under the brake booster doesn't need to be touched (except to verify the neutral safety switch is still intact). Trust me: if you follow the instructions you can't really go wrong. The only tricky thing to remember is that the Edelbrock system is controlling the fuel pump via the ground connection (but you will see that if you follow the directions and don't over think it). Just message this thread if you get hung up or have questions. BTW, I'm in ATL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsstephens Posted May 29, 2023 Share Posted May 29, 2023 I just happened to snap a pic yesterday after I cleaned her up for Bronco Supercelebration this weekend: If you need a picture of something specific I can send it over, but the wiring is very simple and is mostly tucked away alongside the battery. Virtually everything is Edelbrock harness, MSD harness, fuel pump harness, 1-wire alternator and starter relay. Virtually all of the wiring on the passenger side of the engine bay is new with the equipment (except HVAC and starter relay). So is all of the wiring that runs through the firewall behind the engine. All of the wiring that comes out of the firewall under the brake booster doesn't need to be touched (except to verify the neutral safety switch is still intact). Trust me: if you follow the instructions you can't really go wrong. The only tricky thing to remember is that the Edelbrock system is controlling the fuel pump via the ground connection (but you will see that if you follow the directions and don't over think it). Just message this thread if you get hung up or have questions. BTW, I'm in ATL. She lives! For the first time in a few years the 86 Bronco came to life this evening, courtesy of the ease of the pro flo 4 system. Not quite done, but progress. 1) evil energy fuel pressure regulator; gauge says 42lbs, but sensor reading says 119lbs...I can't imagine its 119lbs. I think I need to add vacuum to the regulator , so will do that in the morning and see if cna figure out why there is a mismatch in the pressure. I think I also need to up it to 58 and make sure I selected the right injectors (35) 2) coolant temp...used the sensor that came with kit. Not sure how to get the signal to the autometer classic gauge (replaced all the dash gauges a while back). I tapped into the wire and got the proper signal to the dash gauge, but it sent everything else haywire - coolant temp in the app said -4 degrees, other oddness. I assume there is a way to do this and just need to think it through; not set up for can bus. Looking forward to finishing this up tomorrow! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 29, 2023 Share Posted May 29, 2023 She lives! For the first time in a few years the 86 Bronco came to life this evening, courtesy of the ease of the pro flo 4 system. Not quite done, but progress. 1) evil energy fuel pressure regulator; gauge says 42lbs, but sensor reading says 119lbs...I can't imagine its 119lbs. I think I need to add vacuum to the regulator , so will do that in the morning and see if cna figure out why there is a mismatch in the pressure. I think I also need to up it to 58 and make sure I selected the right injectors (35) 2) coolant temp...used the sensor that came with kit. Not sure how to get the signal to the autometer classic gauge (replaced all the dash gauges a while back). I tapped into the wire and got the proper signal to the dash gauge, but it sent everything else haywire - coolant temp in the app said -4 degrees, other oddness. I assume there is a way to do this and just need to think it through; not set up for can bus. Looking forward to finishing this up tomorrow! Congratulations!!! It is such a good feeling when it comes to life, but there are always little wrinkles to be ironed out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Littlebeefy Posted May 29, 2023 Author Share Posted May 29, 2023 She lives! For the first time in a few years the 86 Bronco came to life this evening, courtesy of the ease of the pro flo 4 system. Not quite done, but progress. 1) evil energy fuel pressure regulator; gauge says 42lbs, but sensor reading says 119lbs...I can't imagine its 119lbs. I think I need to add vacuum to the regulator , so will do that in the morning and see if cna figure out why there is a mismatch in the pressure. I think I also need to up it to 58 and make sure I selected the right injectors (35) 2) coolant temp...used the sensor that came with kit. Not sure how to get the signal to the autometer classic gauge (replaced all the dash gauges a while back). I tapped into the wire and got the proper signal to the dash gauge, but it sent everything else haywire - coolant temp in the app said -4 degrees, other oddness. I assume there is a way to do this and just need to think it through; not set up for can bus. Looking forward to finishing this up tomorrow! Sounds like you are almost there. I had to run through the set up wizard several times myself. If the IAC drops to 1% or less (I think) while you are adjusting the throttle, you have to restart the whole process. You MUST use vacuum reference for that fuel pressure regulator. Get some 4mm (5/32) vacuum tube and hook it up to one of the vacuum ports on the front of the throttle body. I have ported D0VE heads and a Comp RV cam and I am using the 43 PSI to produce around 550 hp and 650 ft*lbs. I tried the 58 PSI regulator and it did not make a difference. The ECU just adjusts the duty cycle so you can honestly use either, I think. I don't think you can tap the temp sender for your gauges. I installed a separate temp sender for my coolant gauge. That is probably what you will need to do. There are plenty of places to add it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsstephens Posted June 9, 2023 Share Posted June 9, 2023 Sounds like you are almost there. I had to run through the set up wizard several times myself. If the IAC drops to 1% or less (I think) while you are adjusting the throttle, you have to restart the whole process. You MUST use vacuum reference for that fuel pressure regulator. Get some 4mm (5/32) vacuum tube and hook it up to one of the vacuum ports on the front of the throttle body. I have ported D0VE heads and a Comp RV cam and I am using the 43 PSI to produce around 550 hp and 650 ft*lbs. I tried the 58 PSI regulator and it did not make a difference. The ECU just adjusts the duty cycle so you can honestly use either, I think. I don't think you can tap the temp sender for your gauges. I installed a separate temp sender for my coolant gauge. That is probably what you will need to do. There are plenty of places to add it. Quick update here and possibly useful info for the next installer 1) ran a separate temp sender for the autometer gauge, worked the charm 2) had the TPS and fuel pressure sender wires reversed; same connector, just a DOH! moment, which was sending fuel pressure reading whacky 3) replaced original TPS with another one (TH42), that fixed throttle reading (out of box failure on other one), but now can't get it to return to 0 at idle 4) fuel pressure is still off, too low by about 10psi, so will be trying out new pump, another new filter, etc. I'm using the 17401 58psi regulator on the end of the fuel rail, somewhat foolproof, so the problem is upstream. 5) starts run and will drive, but not well. some backfiring, some bucking. figure might be related to items 3 and 4 so need to get those sorted, but cyl 3 and 6 seem to be misfiring (swapped plugs, checked wires (new), same result) it's a sweet sweet sound to hear that motor run after so many years...even if it isn't right yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 9, 2023 Share Posted June 9, 2023 Quick update here and possibly useful info for the next installer 1) ran a separate temp sender for the autometer gauge, worked the charm 2) had the TPS and fuel pressure sender wires reversed; same connector, just a DOH! moment, which was sending fuel pressure reading whacky 3) replaced original TPS with another one (TH42), that fixed throttle reading (out of box failure on other one), but now can't get it to return to 0 at idle 4) fuel pressure is still off, too low by about 10psi, so will be trying out new pump, another new filter, etc. I'm using the 17401 58psi regulator on the end of the fuel rail, somewhat foolproof, so the problem is upstream. 5) starts run and will drive, but not well. some backfiring, some bucking. figure might be related to items 3 and 4 so need to get those sorted, but cyl 3 and 6 seem to be misfiring (swapped plugs, checked wires (new), same result) it's a sweet sweet sound to hear that motor run after so many years...even if it isn't right yet. Yes, it is a sweet sound! And it isn't unusual to have little problems to sort out on a project like this. Keep on truckin', you'll get there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsstephens Posted July 4, 2023 Share Posted July 4, 2023 Quick update here and possibly useful info for the next installer 1) ran a separate temp sender for the autometer gauge, worked the charm 2) had the TPS and fuel pressure sender wires reversed; same connector, just a DOH! moment, which was sending fuel pressure reading whacky 3) replaced original TPS with another one (TH42), that fixed throttle reading (out of box failure on other one), but now can't get it to return to 0 at idle 4) fuel pressure is still off, too low by about 10psi, so will be trying out new pump, another new filter, etc. I'm using the 17401 58psi regulator on the end of the fuel rail, somewhat foolproof, so the problem is upstream. 5) starts run and will drive, but not well. some backfiring, some bucking. figure might be related to items 3 and 4 so need to get those sorted, but cyl 3 and 6 seem to be misfiring (swapped plugs, checked wires (new), same result) it's a sweet sweet sound to hear that motor run after so many years...even if it isn't right yet. Quick update for posterity... sorted! new fuel pump to ensure getting to the 58psi required -the old one was pushing around 40, so worked, but weak. found a random post about recalibrating the tps with the pf4. basically, at operating temp at idle, adjust the IAC screw on the throttle body, when TPS reads anything above 0, turn the key off for 10 seconds, then do it again, until the IAC reads down to the required levels (around 12 is what I did at Idle, iirc.) this took about 8 cycles liek this I think to get the TPS reading at 0% at idle and IAC value in range. rigged up a pressure gauge and got the AOD dialed in (manually setting it wasn't hitting good shift point) Now the only thing keeping us from driving it is survival mode of driving the bronco without a/c in this 90 degree georgia heat. Picked up this harness for the a/c (it had factory a/c) so that's the next project for when can figure it out. thanks all for the help!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 4, 2023 Share Posted July 4, 2023 Quick update for posterity... sorted! new fuel pump to ensure getting to the 58psi required -the old one was pushing around 40, so worked, but weak. found a random post about recalibrating the tps with the pf4. basically, at operating temp at idle, adjust the IAC screw on the throttle body, when TPS reads anything above 0, turn the key off for 10 seconds, then do it again, until the IAC reads down to the required levels (around 12 is what I did at Idle, iirc.) this took about 8 cycles liek this I think to get the TPS reading at 0% at idle and IAC value in range. rigged up a pressure gauge and got the AOD dialed in (manually setting it wasn't hitting good shift point) Now the only thing keeping us from driving it is survival mode of driving the bronco without a/c in this 90 degree georgia heat. Picked up this harness for the a/c (it had factory a/c) so that's the next project for when can figure it out. thanks all for the help!!! Glad you got it going! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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