Engine rebuild/mild modifications on my '86 302 EFI

[mat in tn]

100% sure it's the original engine. Just checked and the number stamped on the block matches the last 8 digits of the VIN.

I know everyone has their own opinion but consider what the end goal is expected to be. I prefer roller but im not avoiding building a non roller either . If originality has any value the i would consider that. Otherwise i would get another 5.0 later model roller and build it . Changing accessories to serpentine in the process

[Sparky]

I know everyone has their own opinion but consider what the end goal is expected to be. I prefer roller but im not avoiding building a non roller either . If originality has any value the i would consider that. Otherwise i would get another 5.0 later model roller and build it . Changing accessories to serpentine in the process

I'm not too concerned about originality but just wondering why you recommend getting a later roller block when I already have one. According to the PO it was rebuilt just 5000 miles ago. I intend to put a roller cam in it.

[Rusty_S85]

I'm not too concerned about originality but just wondering why you recommend getting a later roller block when I already have one. According to the PO it was rebuilt just 5000 miles ago. I intend to put a roller cam in it.

If it is a roller block and the lifter bores are tall enough you dont need a later block.

If you wanted to get the best block out there how ever on the other hand you would want a F1SE roller block, from what I have read this iteration of the 302 design from 1991 was intended to be used on the 1991 Supercharged 302 Thunderbirds which they decided to not produce and the blocks became the standard. These blocks have thicker cylinder walls from what I have heard and 0.060" is well within acceptable over bore without overheating. I dont know how true that is, I just had my short block built by Creb Engineering and mine was bored 0.040" over with 0.040" over hyper flat top pistons with 8cc valve reliefs. If I ever had to rebuild this engine down the road I would have it checked before I decide if I want to sleeve the block to reuse it or just go 0.060" over. I am hopeful running synthetic oil will allow me to not have to bore the engine over when a rebuild comes along cause if I have to change blocks again, I am tempted to just drop a late model 7.3L Godzilla engine complete with automatic overdrive transmission and call it a day. Cause when I was looking for a roller block they were bit hard to locate locally and I had to go online to get one. Only other option would be the Boss 302 block that Ford Performance puts out but those block uses the oddball Cleveland mains which limits your choices to cast cranks which I dont understand why Ford Performance did something that stupid when their Boss 302 block when they know there is no performance aftermarket for the Cleveland blocks.

[Rembrant]

100% sure it's the original engine. Just checked and the number stamped on the block matches the last 8 digits of the VIN.

Definitely the original engine then if you have a VIN stamped block. My '84 302 was stamped as well, and I've come across a couple others that were. It's seems to be pretty rare, and totally random, but somebody number matched them along the way (sometimes lol). Mine was stamped on the flat surface at the back of the block.

Congrats then on finally confirming the roller block. A roller block/cam isn't really necessary, but I'd say they're preferred so that you don't have be concerned with lifter and cam wear. I actually just sold a 1996 5.0 roller block engine. I could have kept the dogbones and hold down plate if I knew somebody needed them.

Be careful drilling and tapping the two holes in the block. I seem to recall that they are directly on top of cam bearings? Also why the screws cannot be too long.

[Rusty_S85]

100% sure it's the original engine. Just checked and the number stamped on the block matches the last 8 digits of the VIN.

Definitely the original engine then if you have a VIN stamped block. My '84 302 was stamped as well, and I've come across a couple others that were. It's seems to be pretty rare, and totally random, but somebody number matched them along the way (sometimes lol). Mine was stamped on the flat surface at the back of the block.

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n116490/IMG_4597.jpg

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n116490/IMG_4598.jpg

Congrats then on finally confirming the roller block. A roller block/cam isn't really necessary, but I'd say they're preferred so that you don't have be concerned with lifter and cam wear. I actually just sold a 1996 5.0 roller block engine. I could have kept the dogbones and hold down plate if I knew somebody needed them.

Be careful drilling and tapping the two holes in the block. I seem to recall that they are directly on top of cam bearings? Also why the screws cannot be too long.

Yes, the bolt holes go through the cam journals and you have to have a short bolt or you can hit the cam bearing and lock the cam up.

Ford Performance sells the roller cam retainer kit for like $40, comes new with OE spec Dog bones, OE spec spider, OE spec bolts and lock washers. Its what I used on my build as I am going from a flat tappet build to a full roller build.

This is mine, 302H Ford Performance roller lifters (OE roller lifters with a ceramic check ball for 6,500 rpm stability) and Ford Performance roller lifter retainer kit.

[Sparky]

I'm not too concerned about originality but just wondering why you recommend getting a later roller block when I already have one. According to the PO it was rebuilt just 5000 miles ago. I intend to put a roller cam in it.

If it is a roller block and the lifter bores are tall enough you dont need a later block.

If you wanted to get the best block out there how ever on the other hand you would want a F1SE roller block, from what I have read this iteration of the 302 design from 1991 was intended to be used on the 1991 Supercharged 302 Thunderbirds which they decided to not produce and the blocks became the standard. These blocks have thicker cylinder walls from what I have heard and 0.060" is well within acceptable over bore without overheating. I dont know how true that is, I just had my short block built by Creb Engineering and mine was bored 0.040" over with 0.040" over hyper flat top pistons with 8cc valve reliefs. If I ever had to rebuild this engine down the road I would have it checked before I decide if I want to sleeve the block to reuse it or just go 0.060" over. I am hopeful running synthetic oil will allow me to not have to bore the engine over when a rebuild comes along cause if I have to change blocks again, I am tempted to just drop a late model 7.3L Godzilla engine complete with automatic overdrive transmission and call it a day. Cause when I was looking for a roller block they were bit hard to locate locally and I had to go online to get one. Only other option would be the Boss 302 block that Ford Performance puts out but those block uses the oddball Cleveland mains which limits your choices to cast cranks which I dont understand why Ford Performance did something that stupid when their Boss 302 block when they know there is no performance aftermarket for the Cleveland blocks.

Your build is much more high performance than mine will be. Just a mild cam, heads and exhaust. I think my stock block should be fine. It has not even been bored, just honed and new rings with the original pistons according to the PO. New crank and cam bearings also so the bottom end is pretty fresh.

 

[Sparky]

100% sure it's the original engine. Just checked and the number stamped on the block matches the last 8 digits of the VIN.

Definitely the original engine then if you have a VIN stamped block. My '84 302 was stamped as well, and I've come across a couple others that were. It's seems to be pretty rare, and totally random, but somebody number matched them along the way (sometimes lol). Mine was stamped on the flat surface at the back of the block.

Congrats then on finally confirming the roller block. A roller block/cam isn't really necessary, but I'd say they're preferred so that you don't have be concerned with lifter and cam wear. I actually just sold a 1996 5.0 roller block engine. I could have kept the dogbones and hold down plate if I knew somebody needed them.

Be careful drilling and tapping the two holes in the block. I seem to recall that they are directly on top of cam bearings? Also why the screws cannot be too long.

Mine is stamped in the same location as yours. As far as how deep to drill for the spider, Comp Cams has a kit and the instructions say not to drill any deeper than 3/8" into a non-roller block with no bosses so I assume you could go maybe 1/8" deeper if you have the bosses but going too deep would be a real problem.

[Sparky]

Ford Performance sells the roller cam retainer kit for like $40, comes new with OE spec Dog bones, OE spec spider, OE spec bolts and lock washers. Its what I used on my build as I am going from a flat tappet build to a full roller build.

This is mine, 302H Ford Performance roller lifters (OE roller lifters with a ceramic check ball for 6,500 rpm stability) and Ford Performance roller lifter retainer kit.

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n116518/306_Short_Block_128.jpg

Wow, nice looking engine. Looks like you are doing it right. I want to clean mine up and paint it like you are doing and also clean up the engine bay. The Ford retainer kit looks like a good option. I will probably go with that, thanks.

[Rusty_S85]

I'm not too concerned about originality but just wondering why you recommend getting a later roller block when I already have one. According to the PO it was rebuilt just 5000 miles ago. I intend to put a roller cam in it.

If it is a roller block and the lifter bores are tall enough you dont need a later block.

If you wanted to get the best block out there how ever on the other hand you would want a F1SE roller block, from what I have read this iteration of the 302 design from 1991 was intended to be used on the 1991 Supercharged 302 Thunderbirds which they decided to not produce and the blocks became the standard. These blocks have thicker cylinder walls from what I have heard and 0.060" is well within acceptable over bore without overheating. I dont know how true that is, I just had my short block built by Creb Engineering and mine was bored 0.040" over with 0.040" over hyper flat top pistons with 8cc valve reliefs. If I ever had to rebuild this engine down the road I would have it checked before I decide if I want to sleeve the block to reuse it or just go 0.060" over. I am hopeful running synthetic oil will allow me to not have to bore the engine over when a rebuild comes along cause if I have to change blocks again, I am tempted to just drop a late model 7.3L Godzilla engine complete with automatic overdrive transmission and call it a day. Cause when I was looking for a roller block they were bit hard to locate locally and I had to go online to get one. Only other option would be the Boss 302 block that Ford Performance puts out but those block uses the oddball Cleveland mains which limits your choices to cast cranks which I dont understand why Ford Performance did something that stupid when their Boss 302 block when they know there is no performance aftermarket for the Cleveland blocks.

Your build is much more high performance than mine will be. Just a mild cam, heads and exhaust. I think my stock block should be fine. It has not even been bored, just honed and new rings with the original pistons according to the PO. New crank and cam bearings also so the bottom end is pretty fresh.

One would think mine is high performance but in fact everything on my engine is the smallest aftermarket offering such as the AFR heads, they are 165cc heads and is the smallest they offer. The Crane TruckMaxx roller cam I have was the smallest truck/4x4/offroad cam they offered.

[mat in tn]

I'm not too concerned about originality but just wondering why you recommend getting a later roller block when I already have one. According to the PO it was rebuilt just 5000 miles ago. I intend to put a roller cam in it.

If it is a roller block and the lifter bores are tall enough you dont need a later block.

If you wanted to get the best block out there how ever on the other hand you would want a F1SE roller block, from what I have read this iteration of the 302 design from 1991 was intended to be used on the 1991 Supercharged 302 Thunderbirds which they decided to not produce and the blocks became the standard. These blocks have thicker cylinder walls from what I have heard and 0.060" is well within acceptable over bore without overheating. I dont know how true that is, I just had my short block built by Creb Engineering and mine was bored 0.040" over with 0.040" over hyper flat top pistons with 8cc valve reliefs. If I ever had to rebuild this engine down the road I would have it checked before I decide if I want to sleeve the block to reuse it or just go 0.060" over. I am hopeful running synthetic oil will allow me to not have to bore the engine over when a rebuild comes along cause if I have to change blocks again, I am tempted to just drop a late model 7.3L Godzilla engine complete with automatic overdrive transmission and call it a day. Cause when I was looking for a roller block they were bit hard to locate locally and I had to go online to get one. Only other option would be the Boss 302 block that Ford Performance puts out but those block uses the oddball Cleveland mains which limits your choices to cast cranks which I dont understand why Ford Performance did something that stupid when their Boss 302 block when they know there is no performance aftermarket for the Cleveland blocks.

Your build is much more high performance than mine will be. Just a mild cam, heads and exhaust. I think my stock block should be fine. It has not even been bored, just honed and new rings with the original pistons according to the PO. New crank and cam bearings also so the bottom end is pretty fresh.

One would think mine is high performance but in fact everything on my engine is the smallest aftermarket offering such as the AFR heads, they are 165cc heads and is the smallest they offer. The Crane TruckMaxx roller cam I have was the smallest truck/4x4/offroad cam they offered.

High performance is a very relative term. Doing something that its designed to do well and efficiently is high performance. Building an engine is far more that assembling high performance parts. A lot of math is involved. All parts must work well with all other parts or you get an engine that does well here but not there or one that doesnt do anything any better. The hipo 289 was an engine that thought it was bigger than it really was because evrything worked together.