mat in tn Posted March 30, 2022 Share Posted March 30, 2022 So I got time to try this cable adjustment. I may have an issue in that I think the cable is at it's limit WRT the adjustability OR perhaps my 'idle' screw is mis-adjusted which would pull the cable too. I found that the little lock collar that is the key to the cable adjustment seemed to be frozen in place. That is because it has probably not been disturbed in decades. In the video above the guy just grabs it and the thing popped up for him but he must have had some magic fairy dust he sprinkled on it 1st because mine needed a fight. The retaining tabs are at the bottom of the collar and need to be pushed inward then the chemical bond created by dust and time needs to be broken after that. A quick drive afterwards didn't show any appreciable difference BUT didn't reveal any problems with the adjustment I made. I'll have to go drive it in the hills later. wow. that's a big adjustment. how much slack was in the cable before you made the adjustment? I'm a little concerned about the condition of the cable itself. at the lower end there is a corrugated boot covering a spring. there is a throttle valve spring inside the trans to default to high pressure and the cable mounted spring is there to hold it in check. kind of like arm wrestling. how smoothly the cable operates while disconnected completely can tell a lot. in some cases, the cable can have a lot of drag within it caused by corrosion. not real common here in TN but it happens. however, your cable adjustment "looks" tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archeman Posted March 31, 2022 Author Share Posted March 31, 2022 wow. that's a big adjustment. how much slack was in the cable before you made the adjustment? I'm a little concerned about the condition of the cable itself. at the lower end there is a corrugated boot covering a spring. there is a throttle valve spring inside the trans to default to high pressure and the cable mounted spring is there to hold it in check. kind of like arm wrestling. how smoothly the cable operates while disconnected completely can tell a lot. in some cases, the cable can have a lot of drag within it caused by corrosion. not real common here in TN but it happens. however, your cable adjustment "looks" tight. Thanks Mat, I think that you are on point suggesting that the adjustment is not correct --> yet. The upshifts moved up the RPM range which actually feels pretty good, the shifts themselves are now firm'ish instead of nearly imperceptible like they were before (no tach so ya gotta go by feel and the truck is pretty quiet). I wish I could keep these new higher up shift points but also restore the smoothness. Previously it seemed to be shifting up too quickly. While that may be good for mileage made for a very sluggish truck that you had to constantly force it to lower the gear with your foot to get going, which was an ungraceful way drive and probably killed off any gas savings anyway. The bang'ing downshift when I let off throttle is still happening and seems to be related to the proximity of the current shift point at the moment traffic forces me to suddenly drop throttle. It doesn't do it every time I cut throttle. I previously thought that it was only happening when coming out of OD but I think I'm going to have to toss that idea. I will get the cable disconnected from the throttle body (there is a trick to getting that cable connector 'hat' to release from the ball, I'll figure it out) and ensure that the movement all the way to the transmission is correctly pulling the cable without drag and it is getting fully down to it's closed position. Then I'll re-tension the cable again. A little lube in the cable probably wouldn't hurt either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted April 1, 2022 Share Posted April 1, 2022 Thanks Mat, I think that you are on point suggesting that the adjustment is not correct --> yet. The upshifts moved up the RPM range which actually feels pretty good, the shifts themselves are now firm'ish instead of nearly imperceptible like they were before (no tach so ya gotta go by feel and the truck is pretty quiet). I wish I could keep these new higher up shift points but also restore the smoothness. Previously it seemed to be shifting up too quickly. While that may be good for mileage made for a very sluggish truck that you had to constantly force it to lower the gear with your foot to get going, which was an ungraceful way drive and probably killed off any gas savings anyway. The bang'ing downshift when I let off throttle is still happening and seems to be related to the proximity of the current shift point at the moment traffic forces me to suddenly drop throttle. It doesn't do it every time I cut throttle. I previously thought that it was only happening when coming out of OD but I think I'm going to have to toss that idea. I will get the cable disconnected from the throttle body (there is a trick to getting that cable connector 'hat' to release from the ball, I'll figure it out) and ensure that the movement all the way to the transmission is correctly pulling the cable without drag and it is getting fully down to it's closed position. Then I'll re-tension the cable again. A little lube in the cable probably wouldn't hurt either. is this a completely original setup or has the aod been rebuilt at any time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted April 1, 2022 Share Posted April 1, 2022 is this a completely original setup or has the aod been rebuilt at any time? the reason i ask about it possibly having been apart is there happens to be a quirk in the casing of aod designed transmissions. there is a support plate about midway between the reverse drum and the planetary assembly which gets held in place by a snap ring it has the ability to rotate the opposite direction of force whenever the force direction changes the drive shell swaps it position from one stop to another. they are intended to have a load spring in place which holds the drive shell against one stop and absorbs the inclination to rotate back and forth. you guessed it; it's called the" anti-clunk spring". most noticeable when downshifts occur. rarely ever otherwise because stationary parts are loaded under acceleration. this may be far out of left field unless it has been apart before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted April 1, 2022 Share Posted April 1, 2022 the reason i ask about it possibly having been apart is there happens to be a quirk in the casing of aod designed transmissions. there is a support plate about midway between the reverse drum and the planetary assembly which gets held in place by a snap ring it has the ability to rotate the opposite direction of force whenever the force direction changes the drive shell swaps it position from one stop to another. they are intended to have a load spring in place which holds the drive shell against one stop and absorbs the inclination to rotate back and forth. you guessed it; it's called the" anti-clunk spring". most noticeable when downshifts occur. rarely ever otherwise because stationary parts are loaded under acceleration. this may be far out of left field unless it has been apart before. Good point Mat! That spring can be a pain to figure out if you didn't pay attention to it's location/orientation during disassembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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