Weatherproof Connectors

[Rusty_S85]

I'm glad you mentioned crimpers. I'm actually planning to solder all of my connections into those terminals - even though I have a ratcheting crimper. We'll see how that goes, but I'll roll the tabs over the wire itself and solder, and then roll the tabs into the insulation.

And these are the connectors with the wings. Here's a snip from one of their pages.

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n114058/Weatherproof_Connectors_-_Crimping_Snip.jpg

Ive been doing custom wiring using American Auto Wire at work before and doing it again as of right now. I like just crimping those terminals and refuse to add solder as solder is not a industry standard.

I just crimp them as tight as I can get and give a good yank on the wire and the terminal. If it holds before I crimp the ears into the insulation then its good to go.

[Gary Lewis]

I'm glad you mentioned crimpers. I'm actually planning to solder all of my connections into those terminals - even though I have a ratcheting crimper. We'll see how that goes, but I'll roll the tabs over the wire itself and solder, and then roll the tabs into the insulation.

And these are the connectors with the wings. Here's a snip from one of their pages.

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n114058/Weatherproof_Connectors_-_Crimping_Snip.jpg

Ive been doing custom wiring using American Auto Wire at work before and doing it again as of right now. I like just crimping those terminals and refuse to add solder as solder is not a industry standard.

I just crimp them as tight as I can get and give a good yank on the wire and the terminal. If it holds before I crimp the ears into the insulation then its good to go.

Just because it isn't the auto industry standard doesn't mean a process isn't good. The auto industry would never use the larger size of wire or cable I use because the smaller size is marginally adequate and saves them money. But by using larger wire my engine spins faster and my lights burn brighter.

And they don't solder for a number of reasons, a major one of which is the time required to do so. I'm not bothered by the time it takes as I know my connection is electrically, mechanically, and environmentally tight. (And I know that solder wicks up the wire and stiffens it, so I provide mechanical support for my connections.)

I'm not at all saying that crimping doesn't work. The cars that we drive daily prove that crimps work as they are full of them. But I will say that crimps should only be made with high-quality crimpers. The stripper/crimpers sold at the parts stores don't qualify as it takes enormous pressure to fuse metal in a crimp like the auto manufacturers do.

Here's a chart from this AMP document that shows that both electrical and mechanical performance depend on the "crimp height", meaning how tightly crimped the connection is. Obviously there is no scale on that chart so I can't say what amount of pressure it takes to make a good crimp. But, I can say that if you scroll down and look at their tooling you'll find it is serious stuff. (I happen to have some of those crimpers, but prefer to solder on small wire. However, I crimp battery cables.)

 

[kramttocs]

Just because it isn't the auto industry standard doesn't mean a process isn't good. The auto industry would never use the larger size of wire or cable I use because the smaller size is marginally adequate and saves them money. But by using larger wire my engine spins faster and my lights burn brighter.

And they don't solder for a number of reasons, a major one of which is the time required to do so. I'm not bothered by the time it takes as I know my connection is electrically, mechanically, and environmentally tight. (And I know that solder wicks up the wire and stiffens it, so I provide mechanical support for my connections.)

I'm not at all saying that crimping doesn't work. The cars that we drive daily prove that crimps work as they are full of them. But I will say that crimps should only be made with high-quality crimpers. The stripper/crimpers sold at the parts stores don't qualify as it takes enormous pressure to fuse metal in a crimp like the auto manufacturers do.

Here's a chart from this AMP document that shows that both electrical and mechanical performance depend on the "crimp height", meaning how tightly crimped the connection is. Obviously there is no scale on that chart so I can't say what amount of pressure it takes to make a good crimp. But, I can say that if you scroll down and look at their tooling you'll find it is serious stuff. (I happen to have some of those crimpers, but prefer to solder on small wire. However, I crimp battery cables.)

With the Metri-pack 280's that I use I've only ever crimped (20-10awg) and they've always been very secure. This style terminals look the same. Just my .02

[Gary Lewis]

With the Metri-pack 280's that I use I've only ever crimped (20-10awg) and they've always been very secure. This style terminals look the same. Just my .02

Well, I used this terminal kit for the first time today. I like the connectors, but...

My crimper is NOT the right one for these terminals. It didn't provide a tight crimp of either the wire nor the insulation. So I'm on the prowl for the right crimper. Recommendations?

Given that my crimper didn't work I soldered the pins on the wires today and crimped the insulation lugs with pliers. It worked, but I would like to try crimping.

[taskswap]

Well, I used this terminal kit for the first time today. I like the connectors, but...

My crimper is NOT the right one for these terminals. It didn't provide a tight crimp of either the wire nor the insulation. So I'm on the prowl for the right crimper. Recommendations?

Given that my crimper didn't work I soldered the pins on the wires today and crimped the insulation lugs with pliers. It worked, but I would like to try crimping.

I have https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08DRCRRCQ which is no longer available. I use the 04B jaw from that kit. Those don't seem to be universal-standard names. I see https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Ratcheting-Automotive-Connector-Non-Insulated/dp/B08G48C5NT for instance as an alternative and its A58B jaw looks the same as mine.

My crimping procedure. I use my fingers or needle nose to pinch the insulation "wings" of the pin a bit, they all seem to come too spread out for most crimpers. I like to put my crimper jaws in so the wider/insulation half of the jaw faces left and the wire/pin part faces right, just my preference. I crimp a click or two to grab the pin, stick the wire in, then crimp for real. One and done.

[Gary Lewis]

I have https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08DRCRRCQ which is no longer available. I use the 04B jaw from that kit. Those don't seem to be universal-standard names. I see https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Ratcheting-Automotive-Connector-Non-Insulated/dp/B08G48C5NT for instance as an alternative and its A58B jaw looks the same as mine.

My crimping procedure. I use my fingers or needle nose to pinch the insulation "wings" of the pin a bit, they all seem to come too spread out for most crimpers. I like to put my crimper jaws in so the wider/insulation half of the jaw faces left and the wire/pin part faces right, just my preference. I crimp a click or two to grab the pin, stick the wire in, then crimp for real. One and done.

Thanks! I just ordered that IWISS crimper on your recommendation. Should be here Friday. So while we have errands to run tomorrow, I'll wait to do those last three terminals until the crimper comes in.

And I'll give your process a go.

[taskswap]

Thanks! I just ordered that IWISS crimper on your recommendation. Should be here Friday. So while we have errands to run tomorrow, I'll wait to do those last three terminals until the crimper comes in.

And I'll give your process a go.

Does that mean you'll blame me if it's bad? IWISS is like Harbor Freight in my experience. "Their air tools are good, their screwdrivers are cheap, and everything else is garbage." You know the drill. I'm pretty happy with my crimper though. I'm guessing it'll work out for you. If you can spare a few pins from your connector cut, do a few dry runs with the different die sizes. I THINK I had the best luck with the 1.0mm but the data sheets were worthless on this point. See what gives you the best crimp in the end and use that.

[Gary Lewis]

Does that mean you'll blame me if it's bad? IWISS is like Harbor Freight in my experience. "Their air tools are good, their screwdrivers are cheap, and everything else is garbage." You know the drill. I'm pretty happy with my crimper though. I'm guessing it'll work out for you. If you can spare a few pins from your connector cut, do a few dry runs with the different die sizes. I THINK I had the best luck with the 1.0mm but the data sheets were worthless on this point. See what gives you the best crimp in the end and use that.

Yes, I'll blame you.

Seriously though, I've needed a good crimper so was just looking for a recommendation. I've used IWISS before with good luck, so was happy that's what you recommended.

As for spare pins, that's a big reason I went with the 780-piece kit. It gives me a chance to make some mistakes. So I'll try one and see what happens.

Thanks again.

[Rusty_S85]

Just because it isn't the auto industry standard doesn't mean a process isn't good. The auto industry would never use the larger size of wire or cable I use because the smaller size is marginally adequate and saves them money. But by using larger wire my engine spins faster and my lights burn brighter.

And they don't solder for a number of reasons, a major one of which is the time required to do so. I'm not bothered by the time it takes as I know my connection is electrically, mechanically, and environmentally tight. (And I know that solder wicks up the wire and stiffens it, so I provide mechanical support for my connections.)

I'm not at all saying that crimping doesn't work. The cars that we drive daily prove that crimps work as they are full of them. But I will say that crimps should only be made with high-quality crimpers. The stripper/crimpers sold at the parts stores don't qualify as it takes enormous pressure to fuse metal in a crimp like the auto manufacturers do.

Here's a chart from this AMP document that shows that both electrical and mechanical performance depend on the "crimp height", meaning how tightly crimped the connection is. Obviously there is no scale on that chart so I can't say what amount of pressure it takes to make a good crimp. But, I can say that if you scroll down and look at their tooling you'll find it is serious stuff. (I happen to have some of those crimpers, but prefer to solder on small wire. However, I crimp battery cables.)

I had to take two crimps apart at work today using the same tool I plan to use on my connectors. No solder but what happened is when crimping a double wire terminal it deformed the end and in the process of straightening it out which I had done about sixty times before I had two that just broke just past the crimp making the terminal useless.

It took me close to ten minutes for each terminal to disassemble it as once I got the crimp off the wire insulation the crimp on the wire itself would not let go, I had to use a small flat headed screw driver to gently lift the crimped wings up enough to get the wire to come out as I couldnt cut it as the wire was the precise length it needed to be.

The way I do the crimps with this crimper is I do an initial crimp using the 14 - 16 AWG position then I move to the 18 - 20 AWG position and it tightens the crimp up more. Then if the wire still is questionable I will move to the next smaller position.

But like you I am seriously thinking about investing in a ratchet crimper for these kind of terminals as the extra cost should result in a better crimp not just in function but in appearance as well. Plus I need to look into some made for crimping double wide terminals that are designed to crimp two wires into. I will need those to link all my relay grounds together and while you can do it with a single width crimp it just isnt able to properly grab into the insulation of the two wires.

[taskswap]

I had to take two crimps apart at work today using the same tool I plan to use on my connectors. No solder but what happened is when crimping a double wire terminal it deformed the end and in the process of straightening it out which I had done about sixty times before I had two that just broke just past the crimp making the terminal useless.

It took me close to ten minutes for each terminal to disassemble it as once I got the crimp off the wire insulation the crimp on the wire itself would not let go, I had to use a small flat headed screw driver to gently lift the crimped wings up enough to get the wire to come out as I couldnt cut it as the wire was the precise length it needed to be.

The way I do the crimps with this crimper is I do an initial crimp using the 14 - 16 AWG position then I move to the 18 - 20 AWG position and it tightens the crimp up more. Then if the wire still is questionable I will move to the next smaller position.

But like you I am seriously thinking about investing in a ratchet crimper for these kind of terminals as the extra cost should result in a better crimp not just in function but in appearance as well. Plus I need to look into some made for crimping double wide terminals that are designed to crimp two wires into. I will need those to link all my relay grounds together and while you can do it with a single width crimp it just isnt able to properly grab into the insulation of the two wires.

Once you use a ratcheting style you'll never go back to the stamped/riveted kind. In addition to making much better crimps they're easier on your hands too.

I also love how perfectly they "staple" the insulation wings into the insulation of the wire. I don't have any data to support this, but my instinct is if you do decide to drop a spot of solder in there, I believe the mechanical support where the insulation starts would provide the strain relief to stop any fatigue from vibration. Again, just my opinion.

If you use them for ring/spade terminals or splices, pay attention to the crimp heads. Most of these have two different styles with the same (red/blue/yellow) gauge color coding. One is for heat shrink style terminals and one is for standard. The heat shrink terminals are much softer and fatter before they're shrunk, and if you use the wrong head it won't crimp them right.