1986F150Six Posted February 14, 2022 Share Posted February 14, 2022 https://www.ebay.com/itm/134023995572?hash=item1f3473e0b4:g:xQAAAOSwxathsQYS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted February 15, 2022 Share Posted February 15, 2022 Have been looking... but waay to much time left on that auction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 15, 2022 Share Posted February 15, 2022 I just paid ~$20 for one for Big Blue's "new" '96 system, and it doesn't fit. That one will. But I'm not going into competition with Larry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delco1946 Posted February 15, 2022 Share Posted February 15, 2022 I just paid ~$20 for one for Big Blue's "new" '96 system, and it doesn't fit. That one will. But I'm not going into competition with Larry. I've been bidding on it since yesterday! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 15, 2022 Share Posted February 15, 2022 I've been bidding on it since yesterday! Another reason to stay off it. (And, I think I can change the connector on the one I ordered to make it work.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted February 15, 2022 Share Posted February 15, 2022 Another reason to stay off it. (And, I think I can change the connector on the one I ordered to make it work.) Honestly if I knew what capacitance the cap was supposed to be, I'd just make a new one. Sadly, that's not called out anywhere I've found (but I haven't looked in the EVTM yet, so shame on me). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taskswap Posted February 16, 2022 Share Posted February 16, 2022 Honestly if I knew what capacitance the cap was supposed to be, I'd just make a new one. Sadly, that's not called out anywhere I've found (but I haven't looked in the EVTM yet, so shame on me). That's because it almost literally doesn't matter. Which isn't to say a capacitor can't help, but no precise value would exactly match any combination of vehicle, noise source(s) and radio. A capacitor is basically a fast-charge battery. A thing about batteries is, while they're charging, they can absorb current. A thing about radios is, they need to put out some power to an antenna quickly. Anything in their way makes them bad radios. Capacitor size has a huge impact on how it behaves. Tiny capacitors hold small bits of charge but also charge very fast, which means a small capacitor is better a "filtering" high frequencies. I'm massively over-simplifying here but what it means in the end is if you know how fast a noise source is moving (frequency) you can construct a filter for it (a blocker for that frequency). You do this by adjusting the size of the capacitor. Which Ford didn't. Look, they tried. Any capacitor is going to help in some situations. Can't hurt. But y'all start stuffing aftermarket ignition coils into a pile of different engine configs, OEM and aftermarket coils, OEM and aftermarket ignition systems, various alternator setups, and a pile of aftermarket accessories like headlight relays that look simple but add more "antennas" to a noisy system due to oddly long wiring... One value just can't be "right". All I'm saying is, if you want your truck to be "as close to OEM as possible" spend whatever you want on an eBay listing. But if you actually want to squash radio noise you should: 1. Bypass every major source of radio noise with a SMALL value capacitor (in the picofarads range) to provide a high-frequency notch, 2. Bypass every device that is affected by noise with a HIGH value capacitor (in the mF to uF range) such as your stereos to minimize how much noise sources get coupled into their inputs, 3. Install every single braided copper grounding wire you can find. Hood, side vent, magic external wing. If there's a piece of metal not grounded and you can throw a ground wire on it, do it. Protect your antenna from RF emissions from bug-bears, noisy alternators, and corrupt congress-critters. 4. Avoid ground loops like the plague! If you've ever heard terms like "alternator whine" you're not looking at a missing capacitor, you're probably looking at a ground loop. I don't have room here to post about all the causes here, but if you hear noise that changes with engine RPM, research this first before anything else. Don't pay fifty bucks for a $0.30 capacitor with "the right connector". It's either the most expensive connector you've ever bought, or snake oil for a different problem with a different solve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Roma Posted February 16, 2022 Share Posted February 16, 2022 That's because it almost literally doesn't matter. Which isn't to say a capacitor can't help, but no precise value would exactly match any combination of vehicle, noise source(s) and radio. A capacitor is basically a fast-charge battery. A thing about batteries is, while they're charging, they can absorb current. A thing about radios is, they need to put out some power to an antenna quickly. Anything in their way makes them bad radios. Capacitor size has a huge impact on how it behaves. Tiny capacitors hold small bits of charge but also charge very fast, which means a small capacitor is better a "filtering" high frequencies. I'm massively over-simplifying here but what it means in the end is if you know how fast a noise source is moving (frequency) you can construct a filter for it (a blocker for that frequency). You do this by adjusting the size of the capacitor. Which Ford didn't. Look, they tried. Any capacitor is going to help in some situations. Can't hurt. But y'all start stuffing aftermarket ignition coils into a pile of different engine configs, OEM and aftermarket coils, OEM and aftermarket ignition systems, various alternator setups, and a pile of aftermarket accessories like headlight relays that look simple but add more "antennas" to a noisy system due to oddly long wiring... One value just can't be "right". All I'm saying is, if you want your truck to be "as close to OEM as possible" spend whatever you want on an eBay listing. But if you actually want to squash radio noise you should: 1. Bypass every major source of radio noise with a SMALL value capacitor (in the picofarads range) to provide a high-frequency notch, 2. Bypass every device that is affected by noise with a HIGH value capacitor (in the mF to uF range) such as your stereos to minimize how much noise sources get coupled into their inputs, 3. Install every single braided copper grounding wire you can find. Hood, side vent, magic external wing. If there's a piece of metal not grounded and you can throw a ground wire on it, do it. Protect your antenna from RF emissions from bug-bears, noisy alternators, and corrupt congress-critters. 4. Avoid ground loops like the plague! If you've ever heard terms like "alternator whine" you're not looking at a missing capacitor, you're probably looking at a ground loop. I don't have room here to post about all the causes here, but if you hear noise that changes with engine RPM, research this first before anything else. Don't pay fifty bucks for a $0.30 capacitor with "the right connector". It's either the most expensive connector you've ever bought, or snake oil for a different problem with a different solve. Helpful info. Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted February 16, 2022 Share Posted February 16, 2022 That's because it almost literally doesn't matter. Which isn't to say a capacitor can't help, but no precise value would exactly match any combination of vehicle, noise source(s) and radio. A capacitor is basically a fast-charge battery. A thing about batteries is, while they're charging, they can absorb current. A thing about radios is, they need to put out some power to an antenna quickly. Anything in their way makes them bad radios. Capacitor size has a huge impact on how it behaves. Tiny capacitors hold small bits of charge but also charge very fast, which means a small capacitor is better a "filtering" high frequencies. I'm massively over-simplifying here but what it means in the end is if you know how fast a noise source is moving (frequency) you can construct a filter for it (a blocker for that frequency). You do this by adjusting the size of the capacitor. Which Ford didn't. Look, they tried. Any capacitor is going to help in some situations. Can't hurt. But y'all start stuffing aftermarket ignition coils into a pile of different engine configs, OEM and aftermarket coils, OEM and aftermarket ignition systems, various alternator setups, and a pile of aftermarket accessories like headlight relays that look simple but add more "antennas" to a noisy system due to oddly long wiring... One value just can't be "right". All I'm saying is, if you want your truck to be "as close to OEM as possible" spend whatever you want on an eBay listing. But if you actually want to squash radio noise you should: 1. Bypass every major source of radio noise with a SMALL value capacitor (in the picofarads range) to provide a high-frequency notch, 2. Bypass every device that is affected by noise with a HIGH value capacitor (in the mF to uF range) such as your stereos to minimize how much noise sources get coupled into their inputs, 3. Install every single braided copper grounding wire you can find. Hood, side vent, magic external wing. If there's a piece of metal not grounded and you can throw a ground wire on it, do it. Protect your antenna from RF emissions from bug-bears, noisy alternators, and corrupt congress-critters. 4. Avoid ground loops like the plague! If you've ever heard terms like "alternator whine" you're not looking at a missing capacitor, you're probably looking at a ground loop. I don't have room here to post about all the causes here, but if you hear noise that changes with engine RPM, research this first before anything else. Don't pay fifty bucks for a $0.30 capacitor with "the right connector". It's either the most expensive connector you've ever bought, or snake oil for a different problem with a different solve. I ran dedicated power and ground wiring for my radios (Head unit plus CB)... even installed an isolated power port (for charging my phone when connected to line in) and isolated the ignition power with a relay (nowhere do the "dirty" and "clean" power mix, other than at the starter relay distribution and 6" from the battery ground terminal). That killed the alternator whine, but my AM/FM reception is still craptastic (may have more to do with my 3rd party head unit though). That's all I was looking to fix. And no, I wasn't going to spend much on such a cap... I should know better (I have a freaking EET degree!) but short of obtaining and hooking a FFT scope up to my power (to see what frequencies are needing stopped), I figured that after 37 years my cap (mounted at the voltage regulator) was dried up and no good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 16, 2022 Share Posted February 16, 2022 That's because it almost literally doesn't matter. Which isn't to say a capacitor can't help, but no precise value would exactly match any combination of vehicle, noise source(s) and radio. A capacitor is basically a fast-charge battery. A thing about batteries is, while they're charging, they can absorb current. A thing about radios is, they need to put out some power to an antenna quickly. Anything in their way makes them bad radios. Capacitor size has a huge impact on how it behaves. Tiny capacitors hold small bits of charge but also charge very fast, which means a small capacitor is better a "filtering" high frequencies. I'm massively over-simplifying here but what it means in the end is if you know how fast a noise source is moving (frequency) you can construct a filter for it (a blocker for that frequency). You do this by adjusting the size of the capacitor. Which Ford didn't. Look, they tried. Any capacitor is going to help in some situations. Can't hurt. But y'all start stuffing aftermarket ignition coils into a pile of different engine configs, OEM and aftermarket coils, OEM and aftermarket ignition systems, various alternator setups, and a pile of aftermarket accessories like headlight relays that look simple but add more "antennas" to a noisy system due to oddly long wiring... One value just can't be "right". All I'm saying is, if you want your truck to be "as close to OEM as possible" spend whatever you want on an eBay listing. But if you actually want to squash radio noise you should: 1. Bypass every major source of radio noise with a SMALL value capacitor (in the picofarads range) to provide a high-frequency notch, 2. Bypass every device that is affected by noise with a HIGH value capacitor (in the mF to uF range) such as your stereos to minimize how much noise sources get coupled into their inputs, 3. Install every single braided copper grounding wire you can find. Hood, side vent, magic external wing. If there's a piece of metal not grounded and you can throw a ground wire on it, do it. Protect your antenna from RF emissions from bug-bears, noisy alternators, and corrupt congress-critters. 4. Avoid ground loops like the plague! If you've ever heard terms like "alternator whine" you're not looking at a missing capacitor, you're probably looking at a ground loop. I don't have room here to post about all the causes here, but if you hear noise that changes with engine RPM, research this first before anything else. Don't pay fifty bucks for a $0.30 capacitor with "the right connector". It's either the most expensive connector you've ever bought, or snake oil for a different problem with a different solve. taskswap - I agree completely. And I'm enough of an electrical engineer to fully understand what you are saying. (You can search Big Blue's thread for a discussion of ground loops, and while it isn't very detailed I certainly understand the issue - especially that of adding shielding to an input and then grounding that shielding on both ends.) However, in my case I'm trying to set up Big Blue so he can be maintained easily by my kids, and they don't understand grounds, much less loops thereof. Nor capacitors. So the ignition capacitor/condenser I'm installing will be as close to "factory" as is possible. It mounts on the coil, as shown below, but sometime along the way Ford changed from a 2-pin terminal, which was never needed as it only had 1 pin, to a 1-pin terminal. And, they changed from the round can to the slab style. So I'm changing out the connector so that style can be used on into the future - in case it is needed. IOW, I'm trying to futureproof the truck. But I'm not trying to solve any noise problems as I've not had any. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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