Chinese knock off 2150 carburetor

[jdavidsmi]

When I got my 84, 7 years ago, the carburetor was a mess, and I did not have the money to purchase a ford 2150. Instead I got a Chinese knock off. 7 years later, it’s been rebuilt 4 times. Twice be me and the last two times by a local guy who was a ford mechanic, now retired.

During the cold snap in January, when I tried to start the truck, I had gas running out of the bottom.

Long story short, I purchased a rebuilt 2150 from car quest.

There is a port on the front above the fuel inlet, next to the accelerator pump, that was not on the old one. And I have no idea what vacuum line should plug into it. All the other ports are the same.

 

David

[85lebaront2]

I believe that is part of the accelerator pump circuit and I do not remember if they were connected to a thermal vacuum switch or direct manifold vacuum.

Are there any letters/numbers stamped on the side of the base area near the front bolt on the driver's side? If there are, that will help me determine at least the year it was made for.

[jdavidsmi]

I believe that is part of the accelerator pump circuit and I do not remember if they were connected to a thermal vacuum switch or direct manifold vacuum.

Are there any letters/numbers stamped on the side of the base area near the front bolt on the driver's side? If there are, that will help me determine at least the year it was made for.

Thanks, I have a look today.

[jdavidsmi]

Thanks, I have a look today.

Bill, the only number I found is 221

Hope this helps

David

[85lebaront2]

Bill, the only number I found is 221

Hope this helps

David

From the picture that looks like the passenger's side as I see a vacuum tube. Where you need to look is the opposite side, the one where the throttle linkage is. It should be on the side of that "foot" in front of the return spring lug.

[jdavidsmi]

From the picture that looks like the passenger's side as I see a vacuum tube. Where you need to look is the opposite side, the one where the throttle linkage is. It should be on the side of that "foot" in front of the return spring lug.

Bill you are correct, that number is on the passenger side. On the driver’s side looks like a 2

In the 2150 carburetor document, the part I’m speaking about is the Temperature Compensating Pump. And looking at the vacuum diagram on the emissions sticker

It attached to the VCV through a VRDV, which is a vacuum Retard delay valve.

So I guess what my question should have been is, can I just cap it off? as I don’t have a VRDV, and have not found one to purchase.

 

[85lebaront2]

Bill you are correct, that number is on the passenger side. On the driver’s side looks like a 2

In the 2150 carburetor document, the part I’m speaking about is the Temperature Compensating Pump. And looking at the vacuum diagram on the emissions sticker

It attached to the VCV through a VRDV, which is a vacuum Retard delay valve.

So I guess what my question should have been is, can I just cap it off? as I don’t have a VRDV, and have not found one to purchase.

They ground off the bulk of the original stamping, it was probably a D2XX-X where the 9510 (carburetor group number) was understood.

Accelerator pump, try it capped if it works that way leave it. I was trying to make sense of which way it worked, but not knowing the range of that vacuum control valve makes it hard. It appears that the vacuum will reduce the amount of gas the accelerator pump puts in. If you get a rich stumble, then try hooking it to vacuum. The way I determined that was the other pieces on that VCV, the intake heat control valve, it would be activated for warmup, then deactivated once the engine is warm.

[jdavidsmi]

They ground off the bulk of the original stamping, it was probably a D2XX-X where the 9510 (carburetor group number) was understood.

Accelerator pump, try it capped if it works that way leave it. I was trying to make sense of which way it worked, but not knowing the range of that vacuum control valve makes it hard. It appears that the vacuum will reduce the amount of gas the accelerator pump puts in. If you get a rich stumble, then try hooking it to vacuum. The way I determined that was the other pieces on that VCV, the intake heat control valve, it would be activated for warmup, then deactivated once the engine is warm.

I got it installed and cap off the valve. Started right up once it had gas, ran smooth. On the ride around to insure it accelerated without stumbling, again working like it should. When I got home and let off the gas to turn into the driveway it died. Started right back up, idle was at 200, and it did not want to run. Adjusted the isle a bit to around 600 and everything seams fine. Maybe a very small adjustment to the choke fast idle but I’m going to leave it alone for now.

Thanks for your help Bill

David

 

[85lebaront2]

I got it installed and cap off the valve. Started right up once it had gas, ran smooth. On the ride around to insure it accelerated without stumbling, again working like it should. When I got home and let off the gas to turn into the driveway it died. Started right back up, idle was at 200, and it did not want to run. Adjusted the isle a bit to around 600 and everything seams fine. Maybe a very small adjustment to the choke fast idle but I’m going to leave it alone for now.

Thanks for your help Bill

David

Glad it all worked out. One of the reasons I am not a huge fan of "factory rebuilt" carburetors, I used to sell scrap carbs to a company out of New York who sold cores to rebuilders like Cardone. I know that the stuff we sold the core supplier was junk that wasn't easily repairable as we rebuilt a lot in-house for resale and a lot of it was stick something together from leftover parts to provide some resemblance to a rebuildable core.

That is why the numbers get ground off during the rebuilding process, so the original application can't be determined. You apparently got a decent quality rebuild and unlike the Chinese clones have a better chance of warranty support.