mat in tn Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 Here’s what I have so far excellent way to do it! one step at a time and you will be done soon enough Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 Here’s what I have so far I like that approach. By the way, I'm doing something similar and I'm using velcro cable wraps to hold the wires together as I create bundles. They let me open things back up to add a wire when I discover that I missed one, but keep things organized. You can see them here: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Chapo Posted February 23, 2022 Author Share Posted February 23, 2022 I like that approach. By the way, I'm doing something similar and I'm using velcro cable wraps to hold the wires together as I create bundles. They let me open things back up to add a wire when I discover that I missed one, but keep things organized. You can see them here: Yup I like that, good job. Thx for the feedback and comments guy’s. I guess I’ll need a noid light once I put everything back together just to make sure it’s all in order. Maybe local parts store rents/loans them out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Chapo Posted February 24, 2022 Author Share Posted February 24, 2022 excellent way to do it! one step at a time and you will be done soon enough Morning… can I get a recommendation on the type of wire I should be using for the harness. All I know I think it’s 18 gage? Should it automotive grade to withstand high temperatures, etc? Thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 24, 2022 Share Posted February 24, 2022 Morning… can I get a recommendation on the type of wire I should be using for the harness. All I know I think it’s 18 gage? Should it automotive grade to withstand high temperatures, etc? Thx Yes, something that says "automotive" should be good. But I'm sure there's a rating that's on the jacket of most wires that is best, although I don't know what it would be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Chapo Posted February 24, 2022 Author Share Posted February 24, 2022 Yes, something that says "automotive" should be good. But I'm sure there's a rating that's on the jacket of most wires that is best, although I don't know what it would be. Great also what kind of electrical tape and wrap is best Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taskswap Posted February 24, 2022 Share Posted February 24, 2022 Great also what kind of electrical tape and wrap is best That's an opinionated question. So I'll share my opinion. I'm personally a huge fan of "loom harness tape". It's only slightly more expensive than electrical tape - single rolls can be $5-6 but you can get 5-packs for $10-12 if you buy it that way (like https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RHM81PV). I've had the best luck with Tesa so far but tbh every brand I've tried has seemed pretty much the same. This stuff is MUCH more abrasion resistant than electrical tape. All tapes can dry out and crack, but this seems to last longer IMO (time will tell, I've never had it on something for decades). And it's much more compact and easier to get a nice appearance than plastic loom tubes. One suggestion if you're going to try it. Don't try it to apply it the same way as electrical tape or you'll get frustrated. With electrical tape you usually want to "stretch" the tape a bit as you apply it, so usually you pull out some length of it and pull it firmly as you wrap it. You sort of apply this the same way but it doesn't stretch, so don't pull out a length of it. Just keep the roll very close to your loom as you wrap it around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted February 24, 2022 Share Posted February 24, 2022 Great also what kind of electrical tape and wrap is best That's an opinionated question. So I'll share my opinion. I'm personally a huge fan of "loom harness tape". It's only slightly more expensive than electrical tape - single rolls can be $5-6 but you can get 5-packs for $10-12 if you buy it that way (like https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RHM81PV). I've had the best luck with Tesa so far but tbh every brand I've tried has seemed pretty much the same. This stuff is MUCH more abrasion resistant than electrical tape. All tapes can dry out and crack, but this seems to last longer IMO (time will tell, I've never had it on something for decades). And it's much more compact and easier to get a nice appearance than plastic loom tubes. One suggestion if you're going to try it. Don't try it to apply it the same way as electrical tape or you'll get frustrated. With electrical tape you usually want to "stretch" the tape a bit as you apply it, so usually you pull out some length of it and pull it firmly as you wrap it. You sort of apply this the same way but it doesn't stretch, so don't pull out a length of it. Just keep the roll very close to your loom as you wrap it around. I have been going back to what my dad used years ago, cloth friction tape. It seems to be what a lot of the harnesses I have worked on used originally. If I use the vinyl electrical tape, I will put a couple of passes of the friction tape at the ends as it seems to help keep it in place when I finish the run. I have a bunch of the tie wraps with release tabs I use for working on a harness as, like the Velcro, I can loosen them to add a wire I missed. A few things I have learned in rewiring several vehicles. First, when laying out a harness run, it is highly advisable to have a pattern to lay it on, both corners and up and down portions because once taped up, it can be nearly impossible to get it to fit correctly. Second, any place it runs where it needs to be able to move, whether bend or twist (power wiring into doors) the factory wiring is usually just a loose bundle secured at one or both ends allowing the wires freedom of movement. Wiring to and from the engine, needs to allow for engine movement, you would be amazed how far a large torquey engine can move against what can seem like nearly ridged mounts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 24, 2022 Share Posted February 24, 2022 Great also what kind of electrical tape and wrap is best That's an opinionated question. So I'll share my opinion. I'm personally a huge fan of "loom harness tape". It's only slightly more expensive than electrical tape - single rolls can be $5-6 but you can get 5-packs for $10-12 if you buy it that way (like https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RHM81PV). I've had the best luck with Tesa so far but tbh every brand I've tried has seemed pretty much the same. This stuff is MUCH more abrasion resistant than electrical tape. All tapes can dry out and crack, but this seems to last longer IMO (time will tell, I've never had it on something for decades). And it's much more compact and easier to get a nice appearance than plastic loom tubes. One suggestion if you're going to try it. Don't try it to apply it the same way as electrical tape or you'll get frustrated. With electrical tape you usually want to "stretch" the tape a bit as you apply it, so usually you pull out some length of it and pull it firmly as you wrap it. You sort of apply this the same way but it doesn't stretch, so don't pull out a length of it. Just keep the roll very close to your loom as you wrap it around. I'd thought of going with friction tape, but just ordered that loom tape. Thanks! However, I agree with Bill that I don't want things nailed down so tightly that I can't shape it as needed. So my plan is to run the loom tape around a run of wires with spaces between the tape, and then cover that with split-loom. And, I'll tape the ends of the split-loom so it doesn't move the the wires inside can flex a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Chapo Posted February 27, 2022 Author Share Posted February 27, 2022 I'd thought of going with friction tape, but just ordered that loom tape. Thanks! However, I agree with Bill that I don't want things nailed down so tightly that I can't shape it as needed. So my plan is to run the loom tape around a run of wires with spaces between the tape, and then cover that with split-loom. And, I'll tape the ends of the split-loom so it doesn't move the the wires inside can flex a bit. Took me a minute but feel I’ve made progress, tested for continuity and all checks out. Obviously haven’t done my final wrap yet I will use my fuel rail when I do that for a guide making sure it’s shaped much like the original. Not perfect by no means just hopefully it all comes together in the end and of course that it was successful! Btw: got the fuel pumps to turn on at ignition. Had the manifold professionally cleaned and installed new fuel pressure regulator the Throttle body control sensor seemed fine upon inspection so taking my chances there. The new Amazon (50$) injector set didn’t exactly match the originals as the pins/leads were shorter and felt like it wasn’t making the best of connection, will test and refurbish the originals. More fun with that I’m sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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