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Electric issues


El Chapo

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The left over part is the turn signal switch. A new one will have all the wires that run down the steering column about a foot or so to a curved connector (C305)

My best guess at your dangler is that is connector c327. Thats the only grey 3 pin connector listed in the center of the instrument panel. Its shown on page 125 and 130 with the HVAC controls, but in both diagrams it looks like its not plugged into anything. Maybe it was just put in to be a dangler.

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if you have no 12v being switched on/off at the inertia switch then you will have none at the fuel pump relay. not getting from ecu or ecu relay

Found this sketchy fuseabe link, so I bypassed it and now I can hear the pumps. Fuel relay still not clicking on though and no start.7D961407-530D-4313-9678-62399E06AE4B.jpeg.9a44cc2f7945ecac3e8d2a4330f58109.jpeg

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Found this sketchy fuseabe link, so I bypassed it and now I can hear the pumps. Fuel relay still not clicking on though and no start.

I checked the schrader valve and it was dry then removed the fuel line at the filter engine side and got me a gas shower!!! I was prepared but yeah pressure I thinking that’s a good sign so far!

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I checked the schrader valve and it was dry then removed the fuel line at the filter engine side and got me a gas shower!!! I was prepared but yeah pressure I thinking that’s a good sign so far!

Sounds like you are making good progress. But be careful bypassing a fuse link. There's a reason it burned, and you may melt something down if it comes back.

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Sounds like you are making good progress. But be careful bypassing a fuse link. There's a reason it burned, and you may melt something down if it comes back.

Oh thank you yes was wondering about that, I assume I can replace it I’ll see if I can find one any recommendations would be awesome

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The parts stores used to stock fuse link wire. It is a smaller wire than everything else and has a fireproof insulation.

I still am not settled on why a fusible link instead of just using a fuse in a holder. it must have been a financial thing, but a fuse is so much easier to find and diagnose.

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I still am not settled on why a fusible link instead of just using a fuse in a holder. it must have been a financial thing, but a fuse is so much easier to find and diagnose.

I replaced most of the fusible links in Big Blue with fuses - and I've had no problems.

However, I've read that fusible links can handle a much larger surge of power before blowing than normal fuses can.

By the mid-90's Ford had pretty well converted over to fuses - with at least one exception: the #2 wire connecting the alternator to the power distribution box on the driver's fender. They used two fuse links in parallel to protect that run.

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I still am not settled on why a fusible link instead of just using a fuse in a holder. it must have been a financial thing, but a fuse is so much easier to find and diagnose.

Good point, I did see those online while looking, but picked one up at NAPA.

Btw: not a financial thing.

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I replaced most of the fusible links in Big Blue with fuses - and I've had no problems.

However, I've read that fusible links can handle a much larger surge of power before blowing than normal fuses can.

By the mid-90's Ford had pretty well converted over to fuses - with at least one exception: the #2 wire connecting the alternator to the power distribution box on the driver's fender. They used two fuse links in parallel to protect that run.

Good recommendations thank you and as I get further into it I’ll switch over. To fuses makes sense to me.

Any reason why pumps go on but the relay doesn’t click? still “no start” even with fuel pressure in the line as described earlier and dry schrader valve.

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