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Got my 2nd XL3F MAF sensor in today. Boy is it clean. But, unlike the picture, it doesn't have the temp sensor in it. Yes, I could send it back but I'm going to keep it as it looks new. I think I'll use it in the plastic housing as that will give me a backup in case there's a problem with this one.

Here are a couple of pics of it vs the $14 Jag takeoff, which is the dirty one. Note that parallax error is why the right one looks bigger. They are the same size.

If you want the integral ACT sensor you need a YC2F-12B579-BA or similar. That is the one from the 2003 E250 5.4L.

I just did some playing with it, Fluke 75 connected to E & F, gives me a resistance reading, apply a little warm air and the value decreases.

2nd trial, power to A, ground to B, Fluke - to C, + to D. Applied 14 VDC to C & D, Fluke read around 0.03 VDC, blow some air through the sensor inlet and output went up to around 2.3/2.4 VDC.

I think I can come up with a way to flow these, but you would still need some sort of standard to establish actual flow. I have an old Craftsman shop vac that was my dad's. It has a 3" hose and will pick up anything you get it near including water. Some PVC or similar plumbing, one of which would be a 3" ball valve as a throttle, a could more 3/4" valves (more standard ones) to serve as trimmers on either side of the ball valve. I have two nice Magnehelic vacuum/pressure gauges that I have for adjusting the VV carburetors, one is a very low one which teed to the MAF side of the apparatus would provide an indication of approaching/reaching max airflow capability.

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If you want the integral ACT sensor you need a YC2F-12B579-BA or similar. That is the one from the 2003 E250 5.4L.

I just did some playing with it, Fluke 75 connected to E & F, gives me a resistance reading, apply a little warm air and the value decreases.

2nd trial, power to A, ground to B, Fluke - to C, + to D. Applied 14 VDC to C & D, Fluke read around 0.03 VDC, blow some air through the sensor inlet and output went up to around 2.3/2.4 VDC.

I think I can come up with a way to flow these, but you would still need some sort of standard to establish actual flow. I have an old Craftsman shop vac that was my dad's. It has a 3" hose and will pick up anything you get it near including water. Some PVC or similar plumbing, one of which would be a 3" ball valve as a throttle, a could more 3/4" valves (more standard ones) to serve as trimmers on either side of the ball valve. I have two nice Magnehelic vacuum/pressure gauges that I have for adjusting the VV carburetors, one is a very low one which teed to the MAF side of the apparatus would provide an indication of approaching/reaching max airflow capability.

I can do w/o the integral IAT. I have the new IAT sensor awa an old one, so should be set.

Use another known MAF as the reference?

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I can do w/o the integral IAT. I have the new IAT sensor awa an old one, so should be set.

Use another known MAF as the reference?

Possibly, fun would be switching them without disturbing the settings, I am not sure they would work well in series. It would also be interesting to compare the two different air filter setups, factory vs my original home made one.

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Possibly, fun would be switching them without disturbing the settings, I am not sure they would work well in series. It would also be interesting to compare the two different air filter setups, factory vs my original home made one.

I think you could run two sensors in series. It might slow the flow down a bit, but it would still be the same through both of them. Do you have some of the hose you used for your first inlet system left over?

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