Jump to content
Bullnose Forums

Turn Signals Not Working


ore13

Recommended Posts

Hello, I haven't posted anything since my introduction in November of last year. I bought an 1985 F250 with unknown miles as the speedo isn't working. After 1 month of ownership, I was running errands and it decided not to start at all. No nothing, no clicks, starter engagement, nothing. After a good week of reading and diagnosing (it took awhile as I have a day job that eats up a good days worth of time), I assumed it was the ignition switch. I purchased a new one (Napa brand so, we'll see longevity) and successfully got the ignition switch replaced. This was not a huge pain compared to the actuator rod that was also busted which I decided to replace while in there. After a long weekend, I got everything back together, turned the key and it turned over but no fire. The good news was that the switch worked. I have the diesel so, it should pretty much start when it turns over if it's getting fuel. Which I had no reason to believe it didn't as it was working fine before the ignition switch died. Turns out, the batteries were old and wouldn't spin it fast enough to light, even with a jump. Two new batteries and she fired right up. Yay!

For some reason, now the turn signals don't work. When putting it back together, I double checked the plastic mechanism to make sure it was functional and I didn't remove any of the turn signal wiring, so trying to figure out what gives. I'll add one more piece of information, when replacing the ignition switch, I noticed that the connection under the dash where the turn signal, speed control, horn, etc. connector makes it's connection was just free floating under there. I looked for an obvious mounting point, but I did not find one. So, I ended up mounting it on the column on the lower ignition switch bolt as it was just a plastic housing and figured it wouldn't cause a ground problem. Wondering if this is causing the problem or if it is something else entirely?

Thanks for reading and I welcome your comments.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On my steering column there is a metal tab facing down (toward where the column goes through the firewall) attached to the column. This tab has a short "finger" that slides into the steering column electrical connector. I didn't take a good picture of this but if you examine your plug (on the side that runs up the steering column) you should see a small notch about where I've drawn it here:

Screen_Shot_2022-02-01_at_7.png.849d9a65dd0e941b949c6b735f6fd6e2.png

I do not believe this mounting tab makes electrical contact / grounds anything. But I don't know how you "fixed" attaching the cable to that bolt. Is it possible the tab is still there, unnoticed (it's small) but making contact with the back of the connector and shorting something out?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is likely not your issue, but going to post as something to check into. When the truck starts, does the key return to the proper position? Sometimes, my key doesn't turn all the way back to "run" and the signals don't work. And a few other things that I can't remember exactly. But I seem to remember if the signals aren't working, then my brake lights don't either. It is something to check - that the key is returning to the proper position to allow the electrical to work properly. I've even gotten into the habit of lightly turning back on the key to make sure it's right. If you turn too far back, the truck turns off.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is likely not your issue, but going to post as something to check into. When the truck starts, does the key return to the proper position? Sometimes, my key doesn't turn all the way back to "run" and the signals don't work. And a few other things that I can't remember exactly. But I seem to remember if the signals aren't working, then my brake lights don't either. It is something to check - that the key is returning to the proper position to allow the electrical to work properly. I've even gotten into the habit of lightly turning back on the key to make sure it's right. If you turn too far back, the truck turns off.

I will second that. I had a truck come in recently tha had been worked and rather thangetting the plug thar you mentioned back in place they just zip tied it. They did a good job actually. Only they did not realize they had bound up the actuating rod and thr rebound spring could not center the switch. Another point to check is whether you tightened the switch to the column in the correct position. Two 7/16 nuts. Theswitch is slotted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I will second that. I had a truck come in recently tha had been worked and rather thangetting the plug thar you mentioned back in place they just zip tied it. They did a good job actually. Only they did not realize they had bound up the actuating rod and thr rebound spring could not center the switch. Another point to check is whether you tightened the switch to the column in the correct position. Two 7/16 nuts. Theswitch is slotted.

Thank you much for the suggestions. I'll check the key position. I know that my headlights and taillights are working as that was something I checked cause I had to drive it at night.

And I can remount the connector next time I am monkeying around in there, which will be in the next couple weeks as I need to install the firewall stiffener to help my clutch release.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you much for the suggestions. I'll check the key position. I know that my headlights and taillights are working as that was something I checked cause I had to drive it at night.

And I can remount the connector next time I am monkeying around in there, which will be in the next couple weeks as I need to install the firewall stiffener to help my clutch release.

If the key does not return to the proper position [especially when cold], often times not only will the turn signals not work, but at the same time the fuel gauge, oil pressure gauge and temperature gauge will not function.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the key does not return to the proper position [especially when cold], often times not only will the turn signals not work, but at the same time the fuel gauge, oil pressure gauge and temperature gauge will not function.

And the headlights/tail lights work independent of the key switch. Thats how people accidently kill their batteries by leaving the lights on. One of the many things our cars do for us these days. It use to just be a simple honest human error but now its one more way the human has been replaced and made obsolete.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And the headlights/tail lights work independent of the key switch. Thats how people accidently kill their batteries by leaving the lights on. One of the many things our cars do for us these days. It use to just be a simple honest human error but now its one more way the human has been replaced and made obsolete.

I tried rotating the lock cylinder to see if that would help. No luck on that. I guess I'll pull the steering wheel off and check to see if something got bunged up during re-install.

The fuel gauge and tack works. I don't take alot of stock in the oil pressure or voltage meter and the odo is out too. I need to check to see if the odo gear into the tranny is worn down. It's on the project list.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I tried rotating the lock cylinder to see if that would help. No luck on that. I guess I'll pull the steering wheel off and check to see if something got bunged up during re-install.

The fuel gauge and tack works. I don't take alot of stock in the oil pressure or voltage meter and the odo is out too. I need to check to see if the odo gear into the tranny is worn down. It's on the project list.

the only electronic part of that speedo or odometer is the light bulb circuit. nothing to do with the ignition switch

Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...