Matt Wood Posted January 30, 2022 Share Posted January 30, 2022 Hi all, Im tackling the one bit of major rust on my truck which is the drivers rear wheel arch, ive cut it out and have the patch panel ready to go back in.... issue being is that i was unaware the inner part of the arch (the wheel house?) is also perished on this side. due to being in the UK its uneconomical at this point to buy and ship just the inner parts over. My question is, will i get away with cutting out the inner wheel house for now welding the patch in and then plug welding the new wheel house in later or will that prove difficult? Thanks Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machspeed Posted January 30, 2022 Share Posted January 30, 2022 I did the exact same repair. Welded the outer fender panel on first and then the inner fender. The inner fender panel fit up real nice. My repair can be found on the site. Feel free to ask for further assistance if needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Wood Posted February 6, 2022 Author Share Posted February 6, 2022 I did the exact same repair. Welded the outer fender panel on first and then the inner fender. The inner fender panel fit up real nice. My repair can be found on the site. Feel free to ask for further assistance if needed. thanks! I'm sure ill have plenty of questions as this isn't something I've done before! Ive just made a post about the inner skins above the wheel well asking what options i have to remove the surface rust in there before i seal it back up! Any suggestions? (pics below) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 6, 2022 Share Posted February 6, 2022 thanks! I'm sure ill have plenty of questions as this isn't something I've done before! Ive just made a post about the inner skins above the wheel well asking what options i have to remove the surface rust in there before i seal it back up! Any suggestions? (pics below) As said in the other thread, POR15. I'd use two coats to make SURE you get full coverage. And if there is any chance of getting UV light in there coat the 2nd coat with a spray black of your choice while the POR is tacky. If you let it cure nothing will adhere to it. Make sure you take the lid off the can with the proper can opener, not a screwdriver as it'll bend the can and the paint will be ruined. And put a layer of waxed paper or Saranwrap between the lid and the can or the paint in the groove will glue the lid to the can. Don't ask. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted February 6, 2022 Share Posted February 6, 2022 As said in the other thread, POR15. I'd use two coats to make SURE you get full coverage. And if there is any chance of getting UV light in there coat the 2nd coat with a spray black of your choice while the POR is tacky. If you let it cure nothing will adhere to it. Make sure you take the lid off the can with the proper can opener, not a screwdriver as it'll bend the can and the paint will be ruined. And put a layer of waxed paper or Saranwrap between the lid and the can or the paint in the groove will glue the lid to the can. Don't ask. I use a different trick. I make a short term dispenser. Qt jar with two 1/4” holes. Vent and spout. Old guys remember juice cans. Then pour out small amounts as i go and tape over the jar too while not pouring. Refrigerate the jar. A little goes a long way and spread it thin , thin, thin. Recoat as needed but too thick and it acts funny. Puddles seem to bubble. Sounds wierd. Is weird! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted February 6, 2022 Share Posted February 6, 2022 thanks! I'm sure ill have plenty of questions as this isn't something I've done before! Ive just made a post about the inner skins above the wheel well asking what options i have to remove the surface rust in there before i seal it back up! Any suggestions? (pics below) I'm quite fond of the Ospho product. It's a rust treatment only (without the paint like POR-15). I ordered a gallon of it years ago and still have a half or 3rd of a jug left. I found a distributor in Canada and had it shipped to me. I forget what it cost, but it wasn't terribly expensive. Maybe $40 bucks or something like that, for a gallon. I've done two full size F150 frames and various other items with it, and I still have lots left. http://www.ospho.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lima Delta Posted February 6, 2022 Share Posted February 6, 2022 And put a layer of waxed paper or Saranwrap between the lid and the can or the paint in the groove will glue the lid to the can. Don't ask. Lol, yes, I just learned this the hard way! I got the can open, but there was no sealing it up again when I was done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taskswap Posted February 6, 2022 Share Posted February 6, 2022 And put a layer of waxed paper or Saranwrap between the lid and the can or the paint in the groove will glue the lid to the can. Don't ask. Lol, yes, I just learned this the hard way! I got the can open, but there was no sealing it up again when I was done! Speaking of "Ospho" there is also a helpful product called "Oxpho Blue" (pretty sure they're unrelated) that's great for treating hardware, especially nuts and bolts that will be exposed to the elements. It's a cold-blue solution that comes in a very small bottle but you dilute it so a little goes a long way. I keep two mason jars in my garage, one with evapo-rust in it and one with Oxpho ready to go. I usually don't reuse hardware if it's standard stuff, but some things are hard to find (or expensive) so if they're in good condition, they get a bath in evapo-rust, washed/rubbed clean, a dip in rubbing alcohol to drive off any remaining water, then cold-blued. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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