Heater Blend Door - Alternate Design

[ckuske]

Did you ever come up with a design that works good?

I have a design that I installed on my truck, and it works well so far. Not "road tested" really, but in the garage all the operations of the door work well!

[James191145]

I have a design that I installed on my truck, and it works well so far. Not "road tested" really, but in the garage all the operations of the door work well!

I would be interested in one or maybe three of your doors. All my trucks have "the problem". Last year when I drove in the snow I made a quick C shaped rectangle duct that inserted into one of my dash vents and redirected the air to the windshield. It is a diesel truck so the heat doesn't get very hot as it is. It was the only way I could keep ice off my windshield. It is about time I solved this problem once and for all. I like your design, it looks fantastic.

[ckuske]

I would be interested in one or maybe three of your doors. All my trucks have "the problem". Last year when I drove in the snow I made a quick C shaped rectangle duct that inserted into one of my dash vents and redirected the air to the windshield. It is a diesel truck so the heat doesn't get very hot as it is. It was the only way I could keep ice off my windshield. It is about time I solved this problem once and for all. I like your design, it looks fantastic.

I'd be happy to help, let me contact my friend that did the design and printing, and I'll get back to you. I may take a few days to hear back, but I'll let you know. Feel free to send me a direct message to discuss further.

[James191145]

Chris's newly engineered door has been installed and I will have to say it was a very smooth install. Everything went in great! The hardest part was getting those old pesky rivets drilled out of the old door. I took a bunch of pictures showcasing the fasteners that have to be removed to do this job properly. I know a lot of the bullnose members can do this blind folded so this is for the intimidated and inexperienced.

First I removed the Instrument Panel Bezel. There are three screws securing this bezel and two knobs for the headlights and Windshield Wipers. Remove the three screws in a row above the instrument cluster. (diesels also have a connector for the "wait to start" indicator that will need to be unplugged)

There is a notch in the knobs to provide access to the retention clips. Insert a small straight blade screwdriver into notch and pull the screwdriver towards you. This should release the knob fairly easily. Now You can remove the Cluster Bezel. You will have to twist the bezel a little where it goes around the column to remove. Be careful , it's 40 years old!

Remove the Phillips screws around the perimeter of the instrument cluster. Reach around the left side and remove speedometer cable. Sometimes it can be difficult. Pinch and pull the cable until it releases. Now reach to the right side and unplug the wiring connector from the cluster. It is a wide rectangular connector. Squeeze the left and right side of the connector until it releases. Be gentle the foil circuit on the back of the cluster can easily be damaged.

Remove the knee Bolster by removing two screws.

Remove the Radio Bezel. Two screws in top. It tilts back and pulls up and out. You should also take the time to remove your radio. I was able to leave mine installed but you may not be able too depending on wire routing and lengths.

Remove the 4 screws holding the A/C - Heat control Panel. Do not remove the A/C control, It will stay in place.

Remove the four upper dash cap screws located at the defrost vents. Remove ONLY the two lower dash cap screws shown in the pictures. CAREFULLY remove dash cap.

Left Side

Right Side

Remove the two center support screws.

Remove the left and right kick panels. The first door sill plate screw will need to be removed. The kick panels have one screw each in the middle below the dash. Slide the bottom of the kick panel out from under the sill plate and pull the bottom towards you. There is a plastic "christmas tree" retainer that may be difficult to get loose if yours have never been removed so be careful. 40 year old truck.

Remove the glove box liner. There are 5 screws including the ones on the small cables.

Now we need to drop the steering column. using a 9/16 socket or wrench remove the two mounting bolts and drop column allowing steering wheel to rest on seat. There is one screw that needs to be removed that was above column.

Remove One Emergency brake screw and the Hood release.

Remove the lower Dash Brace bolt. it is on the passenger side to the left of glove box.

There are four bolts on each corner of the dash that need to be removed. The two upper ones are near the intersection of windshield and pillar post on each side. The two lower ones are inserted from the side. The passenger side is behind the glove box door. When you remove these four your dash should be free so be ready!

Let the dash roll toward the floor until you have enough room to service your broken door.

You will Need to remove two rivets two screws and the actuator arm pin to get the old broken door out.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Chris's newly engineered door has been installed and I will have to say it was a very smooth install. Everything went in great! The hardest part was getting those old pesky rivets drilled out of the old door. I took a bunch of pictures showcasing the fasteners that have to be removed to do this job properly. I know a lot of the bullnose members can do this blind folded so this is for the intimidated and inexperienced.

First I removed the Instrument Panel Bezel. There are three screws securing this bezel and two knobs for the headlights and Windshield Wipers. Remove the three screws in a row above the instrument cluster. (diesels also have a connector for the "wait to start" indicator that will need to be unplugged)

There is a notch in the knobs to provide access to the retention clips. Insert a small straight blade screwdriver into notch and pull the screwdriver towards you. This should release the knob fairly easily. Now You can remove the Cluster Bezel. You will have to twist the bezel a little where it goes around the column to remove. Be careful , it's 40 years old!

Remove the Phillips screws around the perimeter of the instrument cluster. Reach around the left side and remove speedometer cable. Sometimes it can be difficult. Pinch and pull the cable until it releases. Now reach to the right side and unplug the wiring connector from the cluster. It is a wide rectangular connector. Squeeze the left and right side of the connector until it releases. Be gentle the foil circuit on the back of the cluster can easily be damaged.

Remove the knee Bolster by removing two screws.

Remove the Radio Bezel. Two screws in top. It tilts back and pulls up and out. You should also take the time to remove your radio. I was able to leave mine installed but you may not be able too depending on wire routing and lengths.

Remove the 4 screws holding the A/C - Heat control Panel. Do not remove the A/C control, It will stay in place.

Remove the four upper dash cap screws located at the defrost vents. Remove ONLY the two lower dash cap screws shown in the pictures. CAREFULLY remove dash cap.

Left Side

Right Side

Remove the two center support screws.

Remove the left and right kick panels. The first door sill plate screw will need to be removed. The kick panels have one screw each in the middle below the dash. Slide the bottom of the kick panel out from under the sill plate and pull the bottom towards you. There is a plastic "christmas tree" retainer that may be difficult to get loose if yours have never been removed so be careful. 40 year old truck.

Remove the glove box liner. There are 5 screws including the ones on the small cables.

Now we need to drop the steering column. using a 9/16 socket or wrench remove the two mounting bolts and drop column allowing steering wheel to rest on seat. There is one screw that needs to be removed that was above column.

Remove One Emergency brake screw and the Hood release.

Remove the lower Dash Brace bolt. it is on the passenger side to the left of glove box.

There are four bolts on each corner of the dash that need to be removed. The two upper ones are near the intersection of windshield and pillar post on each side. The two lower ones are inserted from the side. The passenger side is behind the glove box door. When you remove these four your dash should be free so be ready!

Let the dash roll toward the floor until you have enough room to service your broken door.

You will Need to remove two rivets two screws and the actuator arm pin to get the old broken door out.

Wow! Wonderfully done! Would it be OK if I put this on a page in Documentation? It'll be easier for people to find that way. But I'll leave it here as well.

[James191145]

Wow! Wonderfully done! Would it be OK if I put this on a page in Documentation? It'll be easier for people to find that way. But I'll leave it here as well.

Absolutely Yes!, I knew this wasn't the best place to post but I wanted it attached to chris's door project somehow. Thanks Gary!

[1986F150Six]

Absolutely Yes!, I knew this wasn't the best place to post but I wanted it attached to chris's door project somehow. Thanks Gary!

Great job, James!

[Gary Lewis]

Absolutely Yes!, I knew this wasn't the best place to post but I wanted it attached to chris's door project somehow. Thanks Gary!

Ok, go see what you think: Documentation/HVAC/Blend Door Repair.

I made the pictures smaller, but you can click on them to bring them up to full size. Does that work? That makes it easier to line the text up with the pictures.

But not all of the pics are exactly the same size, and I'm frustrated trying to make them equal. Thanks, Weebly!

Also, beneath "Remove the Phillips screws around the perimeter of the instrument cluster" there were two pics. But I only included the first one as I'm not seeing much difference. Did I miss something?

Last, it would be nice to have some pics of the door itself. And I'm pinging Chris to see if he wants to sell them. Or provide the 3D drawings. Or?

 

[ckuske]

Ok, go see what you think: Documentation/HVAC/Blend Door Repair.

I made the pictures smaller, but you can click on them to bring them up to full size. Does that work? That makes it easier to line the text up with the pictures.

But not all of the pics are exactly the same size, and I'm frustrated trying to make them equal. Thanks, Weebly!

Also, beneath "Remove the Phillips screws around the perimeter of the instrument cluster" there were two pics. But I only included the first one as I'm not seeing much difference. Did I miss something?

Last, it would be nice to have some pics of the door itself. And I'm pinging Chris to see if he wants to sell them. Or provide the 3D drawings. Or?

Hi All,

First off, thanks to James and Gary for putting some documentation together! I have a bad habit as a software person at skirting documenting my work...

Yes, the plan is to sell them. My friend Marshall did all the CAD design, and has the 3D printer. I'm just a guy with an old truck, and Marshall came to the rescue.

I am a software engineer (don't hold that against me! haha), not a business major. But, after discussing the print time, Marshall's time in designing it, etc., $60 USD + S/H "feels" right.

This won't be a money maker for me per se, just a hobby and to help the community. Maybe I'd be able to afford a few more things on eBay occasionally with the money... I know that Jeff's Bronco Graveyard sells the NOS (?) door for $69 (on sale, normally $119), and that design doesn't hold up like this new one will.

The $60 would be for the "bare" door that I just sent to James. The door comes pre-attached to the hinge. You angle it in and fasten it to the plenum. There is no foam attached, or hardware to fasten it to the plenum. I would add an instruction page (and put a printed copy in the box) where I would recommend screws, nuts, and a source on Amazon for the foam. I could maybe have a "deluxe" kit to include these things, but I figure most people will want to source these things to their preferences etc.

If demand is there, I could set up a Shopify style website to sell them. I don't know if the volume will be there for that. For now, if anyone wants one, they can just message me or reply on this thread and we will go from there.

Both James and I got so excited that we put our doors in without taking proper pictures! I will ask Marshall to print another door and I'll update this thread with good pictures etc.

[James191145]

Ok, go see what you think: Documentation/HVAC/Blend Door Repair.

I made the pictures smaller, but you can click on them to bring them up to full size. Does that work? That makes it easier to line the text up with the pictures.

But not all of the pics are exactly the same size, and I'm frustrated trying to make them equal. Thanks, Weebly!

Also, beneath "Remove the Phillips screws around the perimeter of the instrument cluster" there were two pics. But I only included the first one as I'm not seeing much difference. Did I miss something?

Last, it would be nice to have some pics of the door itself. And I'm pinging Chris to see if he wants to sell them. Or provide the 3D drawings. Or?

Looks good gary, the difference is only where the screwdriver points. That got me too. "Did i take the same picture twice?" the second one points to the lower cluster screws but the screwdriver blended right in so you barely see it.

I will have to add, I had no part in designing that door. I am only a "beta tester" of sorts. Chris sent me one at cost to install and work out bugs. There were no bugs at all. Everything lined up perfectly. Our only real concern was fitment in different trucks and it being able to handle the heat.

I will admit I fell short on including pictures of the door itself. When I got to that point I was so excited I buzzed right into reassembly and forgot pictures. I am planning on buying another from chris and doing one of my other trucks as they all suffer from this problem. When I do that I will try to take some pictures of the box/door itself.

I did send chris a couple videos of operation before and after. It might be possible to snag a screenshot from the video.

BTW, I experienced frustration too trying to get them all rotated right. I wrote the entire post and then previewed and they were 90 degrees off. I simply used my image viewer to rotate them all the way around and saved them then erased the image src code from the post and re uploaded images. I did a little research and it seems to be some sort of code apple embeds in the images for rotation that this sight doesn't recognize.

I can send you original pictures if that will help. Also feel free to re-word if I didn't explain well or if you have anything to add.