Choke adjustments and Cheap Chinese carburetor WARNING

[mat in tn]

I will look while the carb is off and see what's there. The plate itself on mine has a block off plate bolted to the back. And inside are passages that go towards that plate, of course. Will have to check for other holes. I looked locally for a standard kind of spacer for a 2 bbl, but that's like finding hen's teeth. May as well work on this part of the onion while I'm there, make it the best I can. I like it being up that inch higher. Just figured that plate doesn't contribute to better fuel economy with the large chamber in it.

i dont remember specifically on the 302 but let me go look at one

[mat in tn]

i dont remember specifically on the 302 but let me go look at one

no, you cannot just remove the egr plate. there is an exhaust port on the passenger side which supplies the egr when in use. if you don't have the plate, it will get noisy and dirty!

[Gary Lewis]

no, you cannot just remove the egr plate. there is an exhaust port on the passenger side which supplies the egr when in use. if you don't have the plate, it will get noisy and dirty!

That's exactly what I was thinking. The carb doesn't cover the exhaust port, but the plate does.

[rcarlisle]

That's exactly what I was thinking. The carb doesn't cover the exhaust port, but the plate does.

Thanks, fellas. Will leave it there.

[rcarlisle]

Thanks, fellas. Will leave it there.

Ok, HELP requested again. One of my issues all along has been getting the choke to go all the way OPEN, once I got it working. Just seems to me when I feel the heat in the engine compartment that the choke should open on up.

Yesterday I reinstalled the Autolite after cleaning it up. I set the choke cap (no electric assist at all) while I was inside before bringing it outside. So when I press the throttle it closes, then opens on the vacuum pull off when it fires. But it never seems to go any farther to completely open and off high idle. High idle set about 1600 cold according to aftermarket tach.

I have the screw in the plastic piece set so the high idle should go off pretty quick. I can start truck, let it warm sitting still on highest idle. It should start reducing idle as soon as I start pressing the gas pedal according to how the linkage appears to be designed to work.

So then I drive truck. But choke will still be partially closed (half?) after several miles of driving. Let's just say temps in the 40s, so the idle stays above 1000, usually 1200 - 1500. I can drive 5 or 6 miles and the choke plate will NOT stand vertical. It's driving me nuts.

Or is it just a thing that it may not go vertical in these cooler temps?

I have decided that I will likely NOT drive the truck at temps under freezing - just no need to really, if I can get a day a week to drive it over freezing, which is usually workable in NC.

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, HELP requested again. One of my issues all along has been getting the choke to go all the way OPEN, once I got it working. Just seems to me when I feel the heat in the engine compartment that the choke should open on up.

Yesterday I reinstalled the Autolite after cleaning it up. I set the choke cap (no electric assist at all) while I was inside before bringing it outside. So when I press the throttle it closes, then opens on the vacuum pull off when it fires. But it never seems to go any farther to completely open and off high idle. High idle set about 1600 cold according to aftermarket tach.

I have the screw in the plastic piece set so the high idle should go off pretty quick. I can start truck, let it warm sitting still on highest idle. It should start reducing idle as soon as I start pressing the gas pedal according to how the linkage appears to be designed to work.

So then I drive truck. But choke will still be partially closed (half?) after several miles of driving. Let's just say temps in the 40s, so the idle stays above 1000, usually 1200 - 1500. I can drive 5 or 6 miles and the choke plate will NOT stand vertical. It's driving me nuts.

Or is it just a thing that it may not go vertical in these cooler temps?

I have decided that I will likely NOT drive the truck at temps under freezing - just no need to really, if I can get a day a week to drive it over freezing, which is usually workable in NC.

Do you have the hot air tube connected from the exhaust to the carb? If you don't have electric assist the hot air coming off the exhaust is all that opens the choke up. And w/o that it'll never open up completely.

With everything hooked up the choke itself will slowly come off as the engine warms up, but you are right that the fast idle won't change until you release the tension on it by giving the engine some throttle. And until the choke stands straight up you'll have some fast idle.

[rcarlisle]

Do you have the hot air tube connected from the exhaust to the carb? If you don't have electric assist the hot air coming off the exhaust is all that opens the choke up. And w/o that it'll never open up completely.

With everything hooked up the choke itself will slowly come off as the engine warms up, but you are right that the fast idle won't change until you release the tension on it by giving the engine some throttle. And until the choke stands straight up you'll have some fast idle.

I do have the tubes connected - BUT it is the Dorman repair part, with a second hole drilled in opposite end and connected in the middle. I have the factory filter mesh metal in there surrounding the pipes. And the pipes connected in the middle. A hodge podge of ideas from members here to make it best possible. But it is also mounted on the down pipe instead of the manifold. Might not be getting full heat. My manifold holes are all messed up from what I have felt and probed. Don't want to cause worse problems by attempting to remove the manifold.

With that said, I want to replace ALL of that with the electric choke from Mike's carburetor parts that has a rheostat that mounts to a good hot spot (like a waterneck bolt). THe rheostat also serves as the ground wire. https://www.carburetor-parts.com/Electric-Choke-Conversion-Kits_c_1026.html

With that kit, you cap the hot air pipes on choke housing and the fresh air port on carb, which cleans up that area again. I was hoping that I could get it to work correctly first so I didn't throw money and it still not work properly. Of course, if my Dorman setup isn't functioning correctly, I might be throwing bad time working on it.

[Gary Lewis]

I do have the tubes connected - BUT it is the Dorman repair part, with a second hole drilled in opposite end and connected in the middle. I have the factory filter mesh metal in there surrounding the pipes. And the pipes connected in the middle. A hodge podge of ideas from members here to make it best possible. But it is also mounted on the down pipe instead of the manifold. Might not be getting full heat. My manifold holes are all messed up from what I have felt and probed. Don't want to cause worse problems by attempting to remove the manifold.

With that said, I want to replace ALL of that with the electric choke from Mike's carburetor parts that has a rheostat that mounts to a good hot spot (like a waterneck bolt). THe rheostat also serves as the ground wire. https://www.carburetor-parts.com/Electric-Choke-Conversion-Kits_c_1026.html

With that kit, you cap the hot air pipes on choke housing and the fresh air port on carb, which cleans up that area again. I was hoping that I could get it to work correctly first so I didn't throw money and it still not work properly. Of course, if my Dorman setup isn't functioning correctly, I might be throwing bad time working on it.

I hadn't seen that choke from Mike's, but I really like it! REALLY! I think I'd quit messing with the hot air bit and install that choke.

It says to install the sensor under "an existing engine bolt", but there are lots of those and they probably vary quite a bit as to how hot they get. I'd be inclined to call Mike's and ask where the best place to put it is.

[rcarlisle]

I hadn't seen that choke from Mike's, but I really like it! REALLY! I think I'd quit messing with the hot air bit and install that choke.

It says to install the sensor under "an existing engine bolt", but there are lots of those and they probably vary quite a bit as to how hot they get. I'd be inclined to call Mike's and ask where the best place to put it is.

I watched his and a couple other videos. Best I can tell, one of the waterneck bolts gives the heat needed to accurately close the choke. Right there where the hot water passes when the thermostat opens.

- around 3:57, he says an intake manifold bolt.

Just seems to need a spot that will 1) ground properly, and 2) get a good amount of heat.

I'm done with the hot air deal. It's attached as best I can do. I just want the linkage to open up completely. This might be the deal.

I'm questioning if I want to completely rebuild the carb. The reman tag says 2015. It functions. But could it be better if I rebuilt it? The idle screws are kinda loosey goosey in their threads. Are they sucking air? idk. What is in the float bowl and how does the inlet needle look? So many questions and I really don't want the truck out of service for any length of time. THat just works on my OCD.

 

[LARIAT 85]

I watched his and a couple other videos. Best I can tell, one of the waterneck bolts gives the heat needed to accurately close the choke. Right there where the hot water passes when the thermostat opens.

- around 3:57, he says an intake manifold bolt.

Just seems to need a spot that will 1) ground properly, and 2) get a good amount of heat.

I'm done with the hot air deal. It's attached as best I can do. I just want the linkage to open up completely. This might be the deal.

I'm questioning if I want to completely rebuild the carb. The reman tag says 2015. It functions. But could it be better if I rebuilt it? The idle screws are kinda loosey goosey in their threads. Are they sucking air? idk. What is in the float bowl and how does the inlet needle look? So many questions and I really don't want the truck out of service for any length of time. THat just works on my OCD.

First - shame on you for buying a chinese carburetor. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/thumbs-down-23_orig.png

Second - you are supposed to set the high idle speed to 1600 RPM when the engine is HOT, like I said in one of your earlier posts. You do not want your engine to shoot up to 1600 RPM when it's started in the cold.

Third - if it is really cold, your choke should *not* come completely off - if at all - when you hit the gas too soon. As the engine builds up some heat and the choke spring relaxes a little, hitting the gas should bring it down to the next step of the carburetor, which should drop the idle speed down to about 1000 RPM. When your engine is at full operating temperature, your choke plate should be completely vertical with tension holding it open and your engine should be idling at curb idle speed.

Fourth - Provided it is set up correctly, a thermostatic choke will always work better than an all-electric choke.

Ford used supplementary heat to help the thermostatic choke open up completely and faster, and to stay open when the choke isn't really needed. In the 1960s, a heater hose was routed against the choke cap. In the 1970s and 1980s, an electric assist choke cap was used. You are using neither, and that is probably why your choke isn't opening up all the way. The only way to get it your choke plate completely vertical without the heater hose or electric assist choke cap in place is to make the choke really lean (very little tension), but then that means the choke isn't going to stay on long enough.

Replace your choke cap with an electric assist choke cap and hook that to the alternator and I bet your problem will go away.

Here is one I found for you:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/371957582173?epid=174779043&hash=item569a66495d:g:7YIAAOSwY3BZIb3i