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Engine hard to start hot and wants to stay running with ignition off.


351FUN

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before you start pushing back on the throttle linkage, I suggest snapping it off the carb and get the carb isolated from the linkage to narrow down whether its carb or linkage related. "Divide it in half to narrow the path" and so on.

"So why can't you use a timing light and dial in the initial advance?"

I'll get a picture soon, but the marks are not the standard kind you expect. It doesn't have the normal indicator either, it's all hard to explain. Timing is something I've considered, I need to see how it cranks with the ignition unplugged and see if that changes anything.

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"So why can't you use a timing light and dial in the initial advance?"

I'll get a picture soon, but the marks are not the standard kind you expect. It doesn't have the normal indicator either, it's all hard to explain. Timing is something I've considered, I need to see how it cranks with the ignition unplugged and see if that changes anything.

Unplugging the ignition is a good idea. If you do that when the engine is hot and not wanting to start you'll know immediately if too much advance is the issue.

As for the timing, if you don't have marks nor an indicator then that could be a problem. Who installed that?

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Unplugging the ignition is a good idea. If you do that when the engine is hot and not wanting to start you'll know immediately if too much advance is the issue.

As for the timing, if you don't have marks nor an indicator then that could be a problem. Who installed that?

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The marks as in rough shape now, but from what I was told there's a machine you hook up in that "tunnel" to set the timing. That's how the engine came. I'm starting to think the right choice is to replace it with a normal setup that I can easily time.

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The marks as in rough shape now, but from what I was told there's a machine you hook up in that "tunnel" to set the timing. That's how the engine came. I'm starting to think the right choice is to replace it with a normal setup that I can easily time.

it is certainly hard to tell for sure, but it looks as though the top edge of the "bracket" is approximately where the std timing pointer would point to. if you were to "assume" that, does the timing scale on the damper show say 10deg, 15deg , ??? when using a timing light.

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it is certainly hard to tell for sure, but it looks as though the top edge of the "bracket" is approximately where the std timing pointer would point to. if you were to "assume" that, does the timing scale on the damper show say 10deg, 15deg , ??? when using a timing light.

If the damper has timing marks you can make your own pointer. Or, as Matt was suggesting, look down one edge of that bracket and add/subtract whatever is needed to get to 0.

Get a piston stop, which screws into the spark plug hole, gently rotate the engine clockwise and note where the edge of that bracket points. Then gently roll it back the other way and see where the bracket points. Half way between those two readings is 0, or TDC.

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If the damper has timing marks you can make your own pointer. Or, as Matt was suggesting, look down one edge of that bracket and add/subtract whatever is needed to get to 0.

Get a piston stop, which screws into the spark plug hole, gently rotate the engine clockwise and note where the edge of that bracket points. Then gently roll it back the other way and see where the bracket points. Half way between those two readings is 0, or TDC.

that type of timing cover is one have seen where that bracket holds a crank angle sensor or crank position sensor. typically, on a car which may have had more electronics than our trucks would. I think you may have acquired someone's re-engineered machine. I see this all the time from those making "improvements."

the damper looks to be a good one and one I have probably used myself. but its only half of the info when trying to read the scale.

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